Early series door pillar captive nut access. - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 9th, 2014, 09:34 PM
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Adam Setliff
2A 109 Four Door 07 RRSC
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Early series door pillar captive nut access.

2a 109.
I need to figure out how to mount my upper front door hinge back on. I ordered new captive nuts and when I took the hinge off I discovered that previous repairs failed. I can't tell what's behind the two holes but I don't have the square hole that the captive nuts slide in.

I'm stumped and out of ideas without cutting something open.
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  #2  
Old December 9th, 2014, 09:47 PM
Greg S
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Get a file and make the hole square or install a nut-sert (rivnut).
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  #3  
Old December 10th, 2014, 07:38 AM
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Bill Adams
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Behind the two holes is a captive nut plate. It is held in place with a small bit of metal that lets it move around a bit. When you adjust the door you move the upper hinge until it's in a happy place then you tighten the hinge bolts. The proper repair involves opening up this area, derusting, and replacing the nut plate.
Paul has what you need for the repairs:
http://www.pegasusparts.co.uk/oursho...0-to-1967.html
You're looking for PSK 3138 and PSK 3139. He has the other sections to repair what you cut out here:
http://www.pegasusparts.co.uk/oursho...er-models.html

PS just checked and it says out of stock on those bits, but give Paul a shout and tell him what you need and he will make it for you. Remember it's just one guy behind the website, so you may have to be patient.

Your other option is a refurbished BH from Ashtree:
http://www.ashtreelandrover.com/index.html
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
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  #4  
Old December 10th, 2014, 09:02 AM
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Adam Setliff
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I would open up the area in between but I don't think it's much material to work with from the previous repairs.

When I took the hinge off the plate behind the pillar just fell off as it was a home made piece of metal with two nuts on each side. The cage was mangled. I need to make another place and fish it in there but the mangled cage is preventing that.

Does the riv nut require a perfect hole or will it expand? It's body filler around my holes so I don't know how strong it is.
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  #5  
Old December 10th, 2014, 09:23 AM
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The handwriting is on the wall, my friend.
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Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #6  
Old December 10th, 2014, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
The handwriting is on the wall, my friend.
While pictures would help, I think I have the same awful feeling as Bill in saying that this is just the tip of the rusty "time for a full rebuild bulkhead" iceberg
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A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
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  #7  
Old December 10th, 2014, 10:30 AM
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Yeah this sounds like you've reached the end of the patches and hack express line.
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  #8  
Old December 10th, 2014, 11:54 AM
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you should be able to modify the pillar to use the later style captive nuts that clip over the edge of the metal
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  #9  
Old December 10th, 2014, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ren ching View Post
you should be able to modify the pillar to use the later style captive nuts that clip over the edge of the metal
pn mrc2178
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Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #10  
Old December 10th, 2014, 12:36 PM
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Also, in the past I have been able to fish a nut plate into the cavity using a piece of string. Once you get it back into the right spot you can put one bolt in to hold it while you install the hinge. Hope that makes sense. I don't know if there is a way to get a nut plate up to the upper hinge though.
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  #11  
Old December 10th, 2014, 02:05 PM
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Bill Adams
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You could weld a nut plate to a stiff wire and try to fish that up thru the upper wing bolt square hole where the spire nut goes. Then just bend the wire such that you can hold onto it next time you undo the bolts.
Again, if it's all that bad you really aught to do it the right way. It doesn't mean a total disassembly of the whole bulkhead, but you'll prolly want to take the windscreen off.
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Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #12  
Old December 10th, 2014, 07:51 PM
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Adam Setliff
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Thanks guys for all your input.


This truck was recently painted but prior to my ownership, and I know they were in there but have no idea of the extent of it. I know it's a slippery slope with bulkheads and don't want to bite off more than I can chew. I wish I would have just left that bolt alone....


I'll get pictures when I get back home. I'm on the road for work until Friday.
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  #13  
Old December 13th, 2014, 02:22 PM
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Adam Setliff
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Hinge in question.
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  #14  
Old December 13th, 2014, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
That is a bondo-filled mess, and not stock.

-Jeff
If you had that blasted you'd actually discover you have very little metal. That wasn't a previous repair, someone covered up the rust with bondo then painted it.
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A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
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  #15  
Old December 13th, 2014, 10:28 PM
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Adam Setliff
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I cut the hole based on the size of the captive nut and tightened it up.
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