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  #1  
Old June 23rd, 2011, 03:23 PM
The Dro
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Clutch Stuck

I'll try to do this one right from the get-go...

I'll ask before I start dismantling the truck and buy parts I don't need.

Here are the symptoms:
  • Press the pedal and release. It will work as it should.
  • Do it a second time. Need to apply more pressure, the pedal comes back up.
  • After this point it's stuck all the way up.
If I wait about 40-50 seconds the pedal will "loosen" up and the cycle will repeat itself.

Charles and I found that nut #23 was loose. The reservoir is full of brake fluid and the soft line is leaking.

I'm going to adjust the pedal tonight to see if this fixes the problem.
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  #2  
Old June 23rd, 2011, 03:35 PM
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You need some free play in the pedal.
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  #3  
Old June 23rd, 2011, 03:45 PM
The Dro
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Ron, that's what we think too. I'll replace that soft line too.

Thanks for the info.

P
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  #4  
Old June 23rd, 2011, 03:56 PM
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I would not bother with the soft line unless it is suspect. Free play is a 5 minute job since you have the plate off the top of the pedal box already.
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  #5  
Old June 23rd, 2011, 04:03 PM
The Dro
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The PO left the whole wing off. It was bolted by two nuts and two bolts.

I was told that the master cylinder is over pressurising the slave. Once the pressure equalises, the clutch will engages again.

Makes sense...

I'll update once I fix the pedal play.
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  #6  
Old June 23rd, 2011, 04:28 PM
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Sounds like clutch push rod is adjusted to far down and not allowing the piston in the master cylinder to return completely to the top of its bore. If the piston is not allowed to return to the top the fluid pressure will not be released. Try following steps 19-26 of your diagram. You should have some slack at the top of the peddle. If it is adjusted correctly it could be a faulty Master Cylinder, or something in the line that is not allowing the pressure to release, such as the soft line is old and expanded internally.

Test this by pumping it up to the point that it is to hard to push and the take your foot off the clutch pedal and open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. If fluid squirts out under pressure something is not allowing the pressure to release.

Just my $.02 if its worth that.
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  #7  
Old June 23rd, 2011, 05:27 PM
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I feel some grinding at the pedal box. I'll spray PB and see tomorrow... My wrenching time is up
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  #8  
Old June 24th, 2011, 08:17 PM
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Charles is a trooper...

He showed up to give me a hand and ended up doing all the work. While I tried to stay out with the kids.

Turns out the softline damaged the slave cylinder.
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  #9  
Old June 27th, 2011, 08:35 PM
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Which brand should I get for the master and slave cylinder?

Lucas? TWR? AllMakes? Wilwood?

Pricing is all over the board, ranging from $22 to $160 for the master and $11 to $100 for the slave.

Thanks!
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  #10  
Old June 27th, 2011, 11:42 PM
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Lucas girling is good.

Stay away from the cheapos.

Honestly, if the bore is good, the lucas rebuild kits worked for me just fine (when I had less money) and I would rather do that than use a cheapo one.
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  #11  
Old June 28th, 2011, 06:55 AM
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Lucas it is.

Thanks
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  #12  
Old July 11th, 2011, 07:44 AM
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I purchased a new slave cylinder and flex hose.

The new flex hose will fit the slave, like a glove (not OJ's glove). But the hard line portion is too small.

Any ideas?
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  #13  
Old July 11th, 2011, 11:33 AM
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Sounds like you have the wrong hose, but I thought you did this last week? I hope you didnt use the old hose with the new slave!
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  #14  
Old July 11th, 2011, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Sounds like you have the wrong hose, but I thought you did this last week? I hope you didnt use the old hose with the new slave!
I did and found a pool of brake fluid in the garage... the next day.

I'm getting a different hose, the truck might have a '69 system.
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  #15  
Old July 11th, 2011, 12:13 PM
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Shouldnt be any guess work - you have the old hose
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  #16  
Old July 11th, 2011, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Shouldnt be any guess work - you have the old hose
The new hose has a smaller size connector. The same type as the banjo connector (to the slave).

The alternate hose is 1" shorter and has a different connector. Both connectors are long and round at the ends. One to the hard line and the other to a banjo fitting. I threw out the old hose, but luckily I did not throw out the banjo fitting.

They are sending me a different type line... I might have a different system than stock.

Here is the line I have... the "shorter" connector goes directly to the slave and the round connector to the hard line.
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  #17  
Old July 11th, 2011, 12:28 PM
The Dro
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Charles do you have a banjo connector on yours?
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  #18  
Old July 11th, 2011, 03:50 PM
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I'd have to look when I get back home but I think no. But iirc it was on the slave side so that won't help you on the hard line side. You should have kept the old hose as a reference!
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  #19  
Old July 15th, 2011, 06:49 AM
The Dro
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I went tried 3 different style hoses and none will fit.

The slave had a banjo fitting, both the banjo and hard line are 7/16-20 (-4AN).

Anyone knows were I can get one? I don't have time to go to a hydraulic shop.
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  #20  
Old July 19th, 2011, 08:51 AM
The Dro
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Hey Everyone,

Just wanted to add a note and maybe someone that has the same setup I have will benefit from this. As it took me three weeks (waiting for parts and realizing the one I had did not work), to get this 20 minute job done

My slave cylinder has a banjo fitting attached to it. The banjo bolt is 3/8-24, the banjo hose fitting is 7/16-20 and the hard line connector is 7/16-20.

Learned the hard way that the "stock" hoses will not work. At the end, had to custom make one at a local Hydraulic Shop.

I had mine made with a banjo end. In hindsight, I should have gotten the 3/8-24 and 7/16-20 straight ends. Live and learn!

Hope this is helpful.

Pedro
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