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  #21  
Old December 6th, 2011, 01:11 PM
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Urban legend boys. In principle, you would think, but it's a pretty common diagnosis tool. My alt didn't do shite when I disconnected it.

Been taking readings at the battery.

We can debate all day, either way I am getting a new alt.
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  #22  
Old December 6th, 2011, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
Urban legend boys.
Says the guy with the fubared alternator.
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  #23  
Old December 6th, 2011, 02:45 PM
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Here's the offender. Mounting tabs look wider apart than the correct RTC5083 Alernator.
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  #24  
Old December 6th, 2011, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Your battery should be reading 14.2-14.4 when the alternator is actually producing current. At 13.5 it's doing zippo. That's resting voltage for a fully charged battery. In addition a dash mounted gauge will be suffering some amount of voltage drop due to the wire resistance. Only when you put a multimeter across the battery terminals will you get a proper reading.
Wrong again.

12.7 is the battery voltage with no charging happening AND fully charged. Any voltage above that and the battery is charging. 14.2 Volts is the alternator control point and it will do that when possible.

My gauge is wired directly to the battery.......
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  #25  
Old December 6th, 2011, 04:32 PM
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Correct for what?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
Here's the offender. Mounting tabs look wider apart than the correct RTC5083 Alernator.
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  #26  
Old December 6th, 2011, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
Correct for what?
The upgrade to alternator from the genny on early Series trucks, or so sez RN and RDS.

At this point I don't care what goes in the truck, it just needs to fit and charge. Truck is sold....
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  #27  
Old December 6th, 2011, 08:45 PM
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Cool. I did not know there was an option like that for the series 1 motors.
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  #28  
Old December 6th, 2011, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching
Cool. I did not know there was an option like that for the series 1 motors.
Not really an option per se, you have to fab up some brackets. Although the LR one is different from my Argentine special, so I'll have to make it work.
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  #29  
Old December 6th, 2011, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90

Wrong again.

12.7 is the battery voltage with no charging happening AND fully charged. Any voltage above that and the battery is charging. 14.2 Volts is the alternator control point and it will do that when possible.

My gauge is wired directly to the battery.......
Yo dat shiz'dope yo!
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  #30  
Old December 7th, 2011, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
I still disagree that a motor idling is running off the battery (my logic point), as a motor is supposed to run by itself if you disconnect the battery. Am I off base on that? I've always diagnosed engine electrics that way.
If you've done any diagnosis on this engine doing that then the likely problem is your alternator, you've probably fried the diodes.
Disconnecting the battery on a generator equipped vehicle (while the engine is running) is ok, but should never be done on an alternator equipped one.

I see Ren beat me too it, but apparently it bears repeating as it's not urban legend.

For a Series that still has the generator brackets, the easiest conversion is an AC Delco 10si
http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/FAQ.S.alt_alternators.html
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  #31  
Old December 7th, 2011, 09:38 AM
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Got it. Regardless, I've done it tons of times on old cars with no issue and didn't fry anything. I've never let the car run without the battery for more than a spilt second and never saw a spike in voltage from an out of control alternator. But I concede your point. Maybe I've just been one of the "lucky" ones.

I'm good on bracketry.
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  #32  
Old December 8th, 2011, 06:40 PM
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Got the new LR alternator. On the back it has two terminals sharing a +, and one marked IND. What's IND? Field? Or is this a true one wire internally regulated alternator?
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  #33  
Old December 8th, 2011, 06:44 PM
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Hmmm. IND appears to be indicator light.

------ Follow up post added December 8th, 2011 06:47 PM ------

...and I no longer need a voltage regulator?
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  #34  
Old December 8th, 2011, 08:12 PM
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It is for the battery light wire. That accepts the standard alternator connector. They are available in the UK for a couple of bucks. Voltage regulator is built in. I've got a few at home if you want one.

edit: here - http://www.autosparks.co.uk/product_...oducts_id=1218

How exactly is your truck wired up now? Having the correct battery light wiring is essential for the alternator to work. This is how it knows to turn on and will not work without it.
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  #35  
Old December 9th, 2011, 06:04 AM
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Truck is wired with an external voltage regulator. That VR simply gets power from a keyed ignition source, then it had one wire going to the Field terminal on the alt. I think the alternator charge wire goes to the starter solenoid where it meets the battery, or might run to the ammeter, I need to double check.

Whats the easiest way to make this work?
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  #36  
Old December 9th, 2011, 07:05 AM
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Factory setup for a Series III using the same alternator would probably be the closest thing to the load requirements of your truck. I just double checked the diagram to be sure- it goes like this:

Heavy gauge #8 (factory used brown) or so probably sufficient for the loads your vehicle will impose on the alternator. Run this directly from the large spade furthest away from the small IND spade to the same large solenoid or switch post that the main battery cable goes to.

Run another wire smaller gauge say #12 or so (also brown if you care) from the other large spade to the same terminal on the solenoid.

Run a third wire (factory used brown with a yellow trace directly (actually there were a few connectors in there) to the charge light on the dash. There should be a white wire coming off the other side of the charge light going to the ignition-switched side of the fuse box. Make the brown/yellow wire the same or similar gauge as the white wire.

I'll email you the diagrams.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
Truck is wired with an external voltage regulator. That VR simply gets power from a keyed ignition source, then it had one wire going to the Field terminal on the alt. I think the alternator charge wire goes to the starter solenoid where it meets the battery, or might run to the ammeter, I need to double check.

Whats the easiest way to make this work?
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  #37  
Old December 9th, 2011, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Having the correct battery light wiring is essential for the alternator to work. This is how it knows to turn on and will not work without it.
So, if the bulb in the charge light burns out you have no voltage sense current?
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  #38  
Old December 9th, 2011, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
So, if the bulb in the charge light burns out you have no voltage sense current?
The wiring schematic shows that stock Defenders have a resistor in parallel with the light, so it will still function with a dead bulb. I've never looked at what is physically installed.
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  #39  
Old December 9th, 2011, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea
So, if the bulb in the charge light burns out you have no voltage sense current?
That was my question too.

So in theory, why not just run the IND to a switched power source?
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  #40  
Old December 9th, 2011, 11:31 AM
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yes that is the case on the SIII's. As John says there is a resistor on the 90's to deal with that problem. Interesting, John, I did not know that until you pointed it out. Checked the diagram to see it myself. Though, have not had that issue with any of my Series vehicles.

FYI Jonathan, saw this in the 90 shop manual:

attery not being charged
AUTION: The vehicle
attery must never be
isconnected while the
mgine is running


Quote:
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So, if the bulb in the charge light burns out you have no voltage sense current?
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