2A clutch/brake reservoir fittings - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 12th, 2014, 11:43 AM
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Charles Galpin
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2A clutch/brake reservoir fittings

I'm replacing my clutch master on my 88" after a disappointingly short life, and while I'm at it I figured it would be a good time to replace the non-stock plastic reservoir with cracked cap I currently have with a stock unit that is surplus from my 109". It cleaned up nicely (have not painted it yet).

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However I took the reservoir apart about a year ago to clean/refurb it and don't seem to have taken any pictures and so have a couple of questions

1. Which fitting goes in the bottom (inside the inner clutch tube)? The one on the right has a bigger washer that just fits inside the tube so I am guessing that one, although maybe the one with the side hole is to allow sediment to fall to the bottom of the reservoir and not go down the tube?

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2. Was there any gasket or just the soft washer shown? I want to say no gasket but not sure. Damn what I'd give for a decent memory.

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3. Where can I find these fittings in case I can't smooth out the pits on the end of one of them? I have searched my my goggle foo is weak this morning.

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tia,
charles
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  #2  
Old January 12th, 2014, 12:03 PM
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Robert Davis
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The original config of that can is comprised of 2 hydraulic reservoirs.
One feeds from the side and is called the "outside" and one that sits inside the can with an open cylinder called the "inside" reservoir. The fitting with the open slot at the top fits in the bottom of the inside can.
In that way a clutch failure does not rob all the fluid from the brakes and vise versa.
You'll need to clean up the threads with a thread file or find replacement fittings.
There are seals for the fittings and reservoirs.
I don't see the inside reservoir in your picture.
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  #3  
Old January 12th, 2014, 12:13 PM
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Charles Galpin
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I have the inside reservoir thanks. #1 and #2 answered thanks! So any idea what kind of material the seals are, or where I can get these fittings and seals?

Despite being pitted the threads engage very nicely so I think I am fine there. Just the tip (tm) of the mating surface needs smoothing out, which I will try with some sandpaper. But if I can get new fittings I'd rather do that.

Oh, and I need to clean out the inside of the tube as well. Will try various solvents and see if I can find some pipe cleaners.
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  #4  
Old January 12th, 2014, 12:21 PM
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Btw, here is a picture of the complete set of parts sans seals
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Old January 12th, 2014, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
I have the inside reservoir thanks. #1 and #2 answered thanks! So any idea what kind of material the seals are, or where I can get these fittings and seals?

Despite being pitted the threads engage very nicely so I think I am fine there. Just the tip (tm) of the mating surface needs smoothing out, which I will try with some sandpaper. But if I can get new fittings I'd rather do that.

Oh, and I need to clean out the inside of the tube as well. Will try various solvents and see if I can find some pipe cleaners.
They were made of a thin "doughnut" of buna, but I would go to a rubber supply and have then cut some out of viton.
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UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #6  
Old January 12th, 2014, 12:57 PM
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Thanks, I'll look into getting some viton. I should be able to laser cut some. I managed to get the pitting out of the end with some 600 grit sand paper and a drill, so seals should be all I need.
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  #7  
Old January 12th, 2014, 01:32 PM
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Robert, how thin is thin? Would 1/32 be too thin? Viton is pretty pricey!
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Old January 12th, 2014, 01:50 PM
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Actually I think I'll try this 1/16" stuff I found cheap on ebay since I am waiting on a heater core fix

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Viton-Rubber...57773#shpCntId
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  #9  
Old January 12th, 2014, 02:15 PM
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99% sure mine has just copper washers to seal the fittings which I got from a local parts store's bin of copper washers.
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Old January 12th, 2014, 05:14 PM
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I will try see if someone else can verify this Ron, but I tend to agree. If there was a washer I needed I would have taken a picture to remind me. Mine has what look like aluminum washers which I think do the same job, but I guess I could find copper ones as well. I just found out I can't laser cut viton (it has chloride in it) so making my own is going to be harder than I thought.
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Old January 12th, 2014, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Robert, how thin is thin? Would 1/32 be too thin? Viton is pretty pricey!
1/32 is too thin.
Go with 1/16, 3/32, or 1/8.
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #12  
Old January 12th, 2014, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
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I will try see if someone else can verify this Ron, but I tend to agree. If there was a washer I needed I would have taken a picture to remind me. Mine has what look like aluminum washers which I think do the same job, but I guess I could find copper ones as well. I just found out I can't laser cut viton (it has chloride in it) so making my own is going to be harder than I thought.
Aluminium should work fine too. I know mine were shot so I found replacements. You could always smear some brake fluid resistant silicone on them when you fit them.
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  #13  
Old January 12th, 2014, 08:30 PM
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I painted my reservoir with this and I thought it turned out nice.

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-brake-gra...sol-13-oz.html
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  #14  
Old January 12th, 2014, 10:42 PM
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I didn't event think about brake fluid resistant paint, thanks!
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