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  #21  
Old February 3rd, 2016, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
I was lead to believe that the Rochester was a close second to the Zenith, and I wouldn't have expected that it would be a problem. Land Rover FAQ - Rochester conversion

I do have choke, and have to use it to start when cold/cool. Before I bumped the idle adjust up a bit, I had to use a bit of choke to bring the idle up at stop lights.

I don't want to go above 55. Used to have an overdrive, that was fine then, not now. I was just using that as an example of what happens when I get to 55. It seem to be fine going there, just not above. That's fine.

I had realized the timing was too advanced, I was explaining how I had pulled it back, and the ping has gone away.

I don't want a different engine on this. I would want an overdrive, but I'm saving that for the 110.



I've attempted timing from the Green Bible and the workshop manual a few times. I need a visual guide/video to show me what the heck. For some reason it's one of those mysterious magic unicorn things to me.... I mean, I get why, and what it is, but the instructions I've seen just don't make sense when I actually get started on the project.
Assuming you do not have electronic ignition:
Pull the cap and check the contact breaker (points).
Gap at 16 thou.
Put the vehicle in 4th gear with the key off and handbrake released.
Push the vehicle backwards or rotate it with the hand crank in neutral until the timing pointer is 7 deg before TDC.
Put a light bulb between the coil and the distributor low tension lead.
Loosed the distributor and turn it in the opposite direction as the arrow on the rotor.
With the key switched on, when the contacts open the light is off, when closed the light is on.
Rotate the distributor until the light comes on and then rotate it until it just goes out.
Lock it in place you are done.
Make sure you do this on the far side of the cam opposite the rotation.
Remove the light and replace the cap.
Drive without ping.

If you get in trouble PM me and we'll set up a call and I'll walk you through the steps.

Good Luck!!! You can do it.

A few words on the carb.
The rochester carb is not suited to a 2.25 despite what you read unless it is rejetted for a leaner mixture.
Never use the choke to keep the engine running.
The idle screw is a better choice as you found out.
When the engine is warm put your hand or a clean rag over the tail pipe for a second and smell your hand or the rag.
Can you smell gasoline?

Overdrive is pretty much useless unless you have the power to pull it, which most 2.25s can barely handle on a flat and cannot gain speed on an incline when in use, so the driver has to shift out of overdrive until the next downgrade.
They are pretty much a gimmick to distract the driver away from the lack of power the engine produces, if you ask me, but you didn't, so it's all part of the fun... enjoy!
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  #22  
Old February 3rd, 2016, 08:09 AM
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If 1 degree here or there make a huge difference something is really wrong. You can run these things ten degrees off and not notice.

The picture I want is under the points plate. In here:


What do the plugs look like?
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  #23  
Old February 3rd, 2016, 11:15 AM
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First off is the correct distributor fitted? is it worn out (as most will be after centuries of use) does the vacuum advance unit work? holds vacuum while sucking on it.

A good new capacitor (condenser) fitted? Always buy two, as these cause all if not most ignition problems. I have added a pdf all about condensers. EDIT the pdf is to big to attach, if you want it send me your email address.

That rotor arm in your picture is not a Lucas brand.



This guy seems to know distributors, Rob at
British Vacuum Unit
112 Briar Bush Road
Canterbury, NH 03224
603-731-1788
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  #24  
Old February 3rd, 2016, 12:41 PM
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gene
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Contact Doug Shipman in Portland; longtime Rover guy; Ship's Mechanical Service at 4425 NE 135th Ave, Portland OR 97230-1227. Call them at (503) 252-5566.

Not affiliated.
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  #25  
Old February 3rd, 2016, 02:20 PM
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At work. Going to be reading other posts.

The drive in was about the same. Runs fine at idle and in any of the mid RPM range. But going from idle to drive coughed a bit here and there, and getting to higher RPMs on flat at 50 mph it just craps out and coughs and sputters. My landmarks on the route where I know my shift pints are, or where I know my normal speed range is, are all off. That is to say, I'm shifting down to 2nd for the hill climb a good 50-60 yards before normal.

I do think the ping is gone. I do think the timing was advanced a bit, causing that ping.

Thanks for the help.
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  #26  
Old February 3rd, 2016, 02:36 PM
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Too rich a mixture can give you the experience you're having.
Read post 21 and the answer to the question I asked may be quite relevant.
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #27  
Old February 3rd, 2016, 08:23 PM
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I don't smell anything in the exhaust. Smells like exhaust when cold, but when warm, it smells like nothing.

I opened up the lower part of the dizzy. Everything seems fine. Free movement.

Here is a 5 second video: https://flic.kr/p/DejyLF

Question: How much suction should be need, in general, and how should I apply said suction?
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  #28  
Old February 3rd, 2016, 09:22 PM
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Pull the tube off of the carb/manifold and suck with your mouth, does need much but if you can still suck air after a brief moment the diaphragm is duff.
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  #29  
Old February 3rd, 2016, 09:34 PM
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Could not do it myself. Found a large syringe I had laying around and this is what I got: https://flic.kr/p/DBtsyU
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  #30  
Old February 3rd, 2016, 09:37 PM
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There are a bunch of threads similar to this on the Guns and Rovers site. Post up over there as a ton of guys are running Rochester carbs with no issue.

I am not any sort of expert, not anywhere close, but I do the following things before I start changing parts. I consider them all normal for a tune up:


-Fuel Pump pressure
-Timing with a timing light and the timing marks on the pulley (some use beer in a pint glass, but a timing light works for me)
-I have Electronic ignition, but the tips given so far on points are spot on
-Check the vacuum as mentioned previously
-Adjust the valves
-Tune the Carb including making sure the jets are correct. Go to Terri Annes website for correct jet sizes. Make sure the float is adjusted per spec and the carb is clean.
-Check and change the plugs if required


If you do all that per the green bible and still have issues it will help with giving further advice.
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  #31  
Old February 3rd, 2016, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
Could not do it myself. Found a large syringe I had laying around and this is what I got: https://flic.kr/p/DBtsyU
Looks ok
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Still looking for that place where I can carry a paddle and get asked what's that.

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85 LR90
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  #32  
Old February 3rd, 2016, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
I don't smell anything in the exhaust. Smells like exhaust when cold, but when warm, it smells like nothing.

I opened up the lower part of the dizzy. Everything seems fine. Free movement.

Here is a 5 second video: https://flic.kr/p/DejyLF

Question: How much suction should be need, in general, and how should I apply said suction?
If you have a good sense of smell (not impaired by being a smoker) and don't smell petrol fumes in the exhaust, then your vehicle is most likely not burning rich.
So I'd say with the timing set close or at 7 deg TBC, you are good to run with the Rochester.
Your top end missing could be to float overflow, again a swap of the carb to a zenith or weber would show if the rochester is the culptit, if it runs fine in the RPM ranges where the rochester misses.
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #33  
Old February 3rd, 2016, 11:15 PM
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So do I now need to redo the points since I removed and replaced?

Engine starts. Runs. But an odd thing... I had the air filter out and when I started it up after putting the dist. back together I made sure the idle and mix was ok. When I moved the linkage with my hand to rev, I got a backfire at the carb. After several tests, I get no backfire when using pedal, but do while moving linkage at the carb manually....?
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  #34  
Old February 4th, 2016, 12:11 AM
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OK, I reset the points.

Then I got real wild and did a quick clean of the carb. Reset the mixture and idle.

I think this thing is now running the way a 50 year old Rover is supposed to run. Not like it is any faster, but I actually found myself surprised when, on flat, I looked down and was at 50mph without knowing it. If I give it the beans in middle RPM range, it very slowly, but smoothly and without the coughing and wheezing, now accelerates to 55 or 60.

Idle seems fine, and all noises that seem unnatural are at the very least diminished, if not gone.

I think my original thoughts on wanting to make sure the idle and mixture were set right were along the right track. A slightly out of time dizzy, a dirty carb that was running with artificially high idle and a mixture that was a bit off all added up to a truck that ran, just not really very well.

So if it starts and runs in the morning the way it did just now, I think the problem is solved. However, I am going to see about doing a real cleaning on the carb this weekend.

Thanks for all your help, I really learned a lot. AND! I heard that my bulkhead for the 110 is done and I'm going to pick it up on Friday! Double plus good Rover day!
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  #35  
Old February 4th, 2016, 12:44 PM
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Car ran well this morning, except a tiny bit of that cough at high RPM. Much less than it was.

However, it did not want to start. And in fact, it seemed to be flooded right off. Could cleaning the carb have opened up the fuel flow enough that it would now be running rich while the choke is on? I finally got it started by only using a small amount of choke, and by actually adjusting the mixture to a bit lean from what I had last night.

Planning on a thorough clean of the carb, new plugs, and new leads this weekend. Unless any of you saw something, I'm assuming the distributor is OK.
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  #36  
Old February 5th, 2016, 11:06 AM
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How's it running after a few days?
I would also replace your fuel filter or add if you don't have one.
You could have gotten some water in your gasoline that caused it to miss...
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #37  
Old February 5th, 2016, 09:41 PM
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It runs quite well -- once running.

It is a real bear to start cold, but once it starts, runs well, and runs just fine for the whole trip. I did about 30 miles today.

But even when I turn it off, then try to start it just a few minutes later, it just does not want to start, the complains, even quits, for a minute or two till it decides to run well.

Like this: https://flic.kr/p/DhS1ez

Inspected and cleaned the plugs. Will get new leads when I can. Will do a more thorough clean of the carb tomorrow, and will replace fuel filter tomorrow.
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  #38  
Old February 6th, 2016, 06:14 PM
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I've always found converting my series trucks to electronic ignition and upgraded coil improves their reliability and simplifies ignition trouble shooting.
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  #39  
Old February 6th, 2016, 06:32 PM
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It started OK today, tried three times, then it caught. I keep trying to start it cold, then warm, then full temp. Let it sit a few minutes, then start it. It seems to be OK, but there is not solid pattern on what it likes or does not like when it comes to actually getting it to go.

Once started and running for a few seconds, it "clears up" and runs and drives fine.
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  #40  
Old February 8th, 2016, 08:07 PM
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Coil. Replace it. If, by chance, it used a ballast resistor make sure you use both a coil for a ballast resistor and replace the resistor.

Quick and dirty test for the mechanical and vacuum advance. Unplug the vacuum, rev to 2500 and see where the light falls. ( you need a advance tmining light for this or a degreed crank pulley) I do not know the exact spec for the 2.25 but, being a non egr mill I'd think 32 would be pretty close. Adjust the dizzy to 32. Then hook the vacuum up and see how much change you get. The look at the base setting and see how far off it is. Assuming you have a total advance spec, that will tell you if the advance plate and breaker plate are worth a damn.

We used to set up old air cooled stuff that way and your description of what it does reminded me of either breaker plate wear (dwell walk) it worn out advance plate.
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