110 on Ebay, not mine--Risks - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 2nd, 2014, 11:46 PM
cdoyle619
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Chris Doyle
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110 on Ebay, not mine--Risks

Saw this on ebay...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Land-Rover-D...rucks#viTabs_0

Looking for my first LR in the next year at some point and want to know what are the most important things to look for...risks that is...on an ebay sale?
And, is this truck interesting at all?
Thanks for feedback.
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  #2  
Old February 3rd, 2014, 12:55 AM
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1995 Black ST - Rhinolined edition
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The seller originally had this auction as a No Reserve with an opening bid of $49,995 or very close. I figure that's what he/she wants out of it, and if it is not close to that near the end of the auction, that it will be pulled, or will be up for sale again the next week.
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I am talking purely from an aesthetics standpoint.
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  #3  
Old February 3rd, 2014, 08:08 AM
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I wouldn't pay more than 20k for that truck... But I'm a cheap bastard.

2.5 NA, 25 year old frame and no pics of anything that matters; another guy trying to make a buck with a paint job
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  #4  
Old February 3rd, 2014, 08:23 AM
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SALLDHHV7BA146788 in http://www.clifton.nl/index.html?calvin.html

Land Rover vin decoder suggests that this was originally a RHD v8 pickup ...

this would need to be clarified before separating from your hard earned money ...
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  #5  
Old February 3rd, 2014, 10:07 AM
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says on the listing tdi, if so it wont get in!
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We are a specialist in TDI re-power conversions, and Crate 'turn key' Land Rover TDI and TD5 engines and Transmissions.
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  #6  
Old February 3rd, 2014, 11:36 AM
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Thanks for the insight. I am trying to find out everything I can about how to find a good, affordable LR before I commit.

The VIN tool above was super helpful. Is that considered accurate by most members? I know I have seen some different threads about how to decipher the VIN myself and was wondering what is the safest way to do that.
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Old February 3rd, 2014, 12:14 PM
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safest way is get it done at Land Rover
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #8  
Old February 3rd, 2014, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdoyle619 View Post

The VIN tool above was super helpful. Is that considered accurate ?.

I have used the CLIFTON.NL site for almost 8 years, it has always prooved to be correct, where as I have had 2 mistakes with Heritage Certifcates where they states 1987 Defender 110's with Tdi engines instead of the correct Td engines....


Several LHD 110's on my site www.riverhousemini.com
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  #9  
Old February 3rd, 2014, 01:52 PM
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so the truck being sold on ebay has a very questionable history
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #10  
Old February 3rd, 2014, 02:24 PM
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  #11  
Old February 3rd, 2014, 03:07 PM
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Sounds like my lessons are just beginning.

How rampant are issues with grey-market vehicles, mixed up frames/engines/transmissions, RHD to LHD conversions, illegal mods, mislabeling of years, etc.? Most of these will be apparent with a VIN check.
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Old February 3rd, 2014, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdoyle619 View Post
Sounds like my lessons are just beginning.

How rampant are issues with grey-market vehicles, mixed up frames/engines/transmissions, RHD to LHD conversions, illegal mods, mislabeling of years, etc.? Most of these will be apparent with a VIN check.
very common .... there are plenty of late model vehicles running round with pre-1985 vin numbers ... described as restorations.

likely many vehicles were originally stolen and had a new identity that made them US importable.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #13  
Old February 3rd, 2014, 03:22 PM
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110 Tdi
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Depends on how wound up you get when something doesn't match up, and why you're getting wound up. If you plan on driving it for a while, just make sure you can title it in your state. I can't speak on Nebraska, but Texas registration rules are pretty easy - if there's a VIN on the truck that matches the paperwork, the truck looks vaguely like a truck, and it passes the safety (and emissions for newer trucks) inspection, then you're good to go.
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