Winch electric setup - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 30th, 2013, 09:05 PM
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William Skidmore
SIII 109 SW
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Winch electric setup

Dont know what I did but I got a new 8274 which came with a positive and negative cable, cable remote, etc.
I have a red top optima which is somewhere around 750 CCA and I have a Delco 10-SI alternator in my S3.
This is what I have culled from all the threads about winch electrics.
As I understand it, if I wire up the two batteries in parallel and connect the winch to a post on battery 1 and a post on battery 2 with respect to polarity then I am good to go.
Also make sure to get a quick disconnect that can handle the load continuously and intermittently. Most likely place the quick disconnect in the engine bay.
Is there anything I am missing?

Winch electrics
An alternative I like better is to hook the engine positive to the front, and the engine negative to the rear. Do the opposite for the winch: winch positive to rear battery, winch negative to front. This makes the connection to the daul batteries symmetric for both the starter and winch high-current loads.

Quick disconnects

Do not use a quick connect for the winch connections. I've never seen one with enough capacity to support a winch without unwanted voltage drop levels. If you want a disconnect, get a Cole Hersee 2000amp battery disconnect, PN 75907 (2000A intermittent, 300A continuous). For longest motor life and winch power you want the lowest volt drop you can reasonably get, but a max of 0.5 volt drop over the length of the supply side.

I ended up using a Blue Sea dual battery switch #6007

boatfix.com

heater hose for wire insulation

#1 is too small for that length of run as you'll get around 1v drop at 400amps.
I wouldn't use anything less that 1/0.
I've never understood why winch manufacturers skimp on the wiring. To sell replacement motors I suppose.
2 gauge at 400amps will give you about a .35v drop, so the wire itself should be ok. But remember, you'll get some from the connector as well. It would probably be better to just buy an extra 4' and eliminate a failure point.
If you want to use quick connects I suggest using something like Tweco welding cable connectors. They come in a variety of cable sizes and are designed to carry the full current load. In welding, a drop in the amperage is very noticeable and can cause significant flaws in the weld, so the connecters have to be good.

I don't know how into overkill you are, but as for me, I treat an off road vehicle like a boat. As much as possible I use marine grade wiring and terminals as well as wiring protocols.
First off, let's discuss the ground. I dunno what Winch Guy is talking about burned up brake lines but whoever owned that truck had some seriously fu*ked up wiring that was likely not related to winch installation. A frame ground is just fine and dandy as long as you are sure the connections are clean and tight. My preference is for a separate ground bus bar with a cover. These have 5/16ths tinned studs and can carry 600 amps. You can put several grounds on this type of bar and the cover keeps tools and stuff from causing arcs.
I also prefer marine grade cables. These are made of stranded tinned copper with oil and fuel resistant cover that also have a fire rating. A line as small as grade 8 will carry the loads of a winch motor but the resistance is pretty high. I wouldn't use anything smaller than a 0 for winch cables even though you probably don't need it. Again, overkill.
In order to keep moisture out of the cable strands, I use a tinned copper lug that is crimped (never use solder) and covered with an adhesive lined shrink tube to seal up the gap between the cable cover and the lug. This assembly will withstand dunk after dunk and will not get water in it. Finally I use proper sized boots to cover the connector lug on both the ends of the cable to protect from accidental contact. I spray all connections with either Boeshield or Deka Battery Terminal Spray.
Genuinedealz.com is my choice for on line purchasing. They have always had my order on my door within two days and when I once had a problem they made it right the next day.
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  #2  
Old December 30th, 2013, 11:42 PM
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Chris Snell
87 Ex-MOD 110
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Can't speak to the dual-battery setup. I dislike dual batteries, battery controllers, and kill switches. I run a single Odyssey PC2150 which has never let me down. I've winched on it and I regularly run an Engel fridge in the desert heat for 9+ hours with the motor off and I've never had a problem starting, even my 2.5 NA diesel. It's a very simple setup with few components and no wild wiring.

I ran a Husky 10 on 2AWG cables but the science is very straightforward here: thicker gauge cable is better. I will probably go for some 1/0 AWG when I reinstall the winch in my new truck. The problem with thicker cable is that it's more difficult to route. A pair of 2AWG barely fit within the heater hose that I routed it in. I'd have to go to a larger diameter hose, possibly use larger omega clamps to secure it, and potentially have difficulty snaking it around radiators, body work, etc.

Definitely use marine-grade cable and connectors. GenuineDealz is a great place to buy it. I no longer solder my terminals. Instead, I took mine to the place that sold me my Odyssey: a commercial battery store that catered to golf cart fleet owners, etc. They had a huge crimper that I used to put a nice solid crimp onto the end. If you wanted to go all-out, you might even try sweating a little solder into the crimped end but it's really not necessary.

More info about my setup:

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=26830

Flickr album:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/defende...7624314668149/
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  #3  
Old December 31st, 2013, 12:29 AM
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Marc
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I also simplified from a 2 Optima battery set up to the single Odyssey 2150, running the S9000 Superwinch and 2AWG cables & Superwinch quick disconnects = no problems .
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  #4  
Old December 31st, 2013, 06:17 AM
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Tom Rowe
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IMO dual batteries and how you set them up is a personal choice. For me, I prefer dual batteries isolated from each other. That's because 99% of the time I'm out by myself and I don't want to run any risk of my starting battery not being able to do it's job. Obviously running dual batteries and isolating them adds expense and complication, but if done correctly you can remove any failed component and still function.
That said, plenty of people, including me on my lightweight, run single batteries. On a Series, if push comes to shove, you can even hand crank the engine.

I can't think of any reason to cover a ground connection other than aesthetics. Unless you have it mounted next to an uncovered positive terminal (you always want boots/covers on the positive) you're not going to get any arcing from anything.

There's certainly nothing wrong with using marine grade wiring, but, personally, I wouldn't stress over it or pay a significant premium to use it. More important is to use closed barrel lugs, maked good crimps and use adhesive lined heat shrink tubing on the connectors. For the novice a good crimp is easier than a good solder joint. You don't have to worry about cold solder joints or fatigue failure from vibration.
I've cut open lugs over 10 years old that I made this way and the wire strands were as shiny as the day I assembled the cable. I haven't cut them open, but I have cables made the same way nearly 30 years ago that appear to be still working fine. Maybe I'll check their resistance sometime, just to see.
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  #5  
Old August 21st, 2015, 11:00 PM
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William Skidmore
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Finally got everything bolted and buttoned up. Kept with just a single battery, yellow top.
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