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  #41  
Old September 12th, 2013, 09:38 PM
LaneRover
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Brent
1965 109SW
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Congrats on getting it started! Glad that she was thrilled!
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  #42  
Old September 13th, 2013, 12:11 PM
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phoenix37
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john
97 D90 ST / 1957 S1 109/ 1983 LS110
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Thanks Brent! Bleeding this clutch is a pain in my butt. been at it all morning and still cant get the clutch to disengage. The master and slave both looked fairly new so Im assuming they arent bad but that could be a mistake or just wishful thinking.
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  #43  
Old September 13th, 2013, 01:22 PM
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Ren Ching
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Skinny Pete
'84 90 "Yamelo"/'88 RRC "Chewbacca"
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Pull

the floors and tunnel and then the little D shaped cover on the top of the bellhousing. With that off you can see if the clutch t/o bearing is pushing on the fingers of the P/P.

If it is, then you have a stuck clutch which wouldn't surprise me if it was sitting outside for a while. If the clutch is stuck, there are a few tricks to try to free it up.

1. Drive around with the clutch pedal down for a while. Try not to cook the t/o bearing.
2. drive the car and then apply the clutch and brake at the same time, while holding the gas pedal down.
3. I chain car to something immoveable and gently pull the chain tight. then see if you can give it some gas and break the clutch free.

Obvious caveats apply to all of these methods. I have personally used 1 and 2 successfully, but never tried 3.

Clutch should be easy to bleed, if you are doing it repeatedly and not getting any air bubbles, then look elsewhere for your problem.

FYI, I have had a few where I had to bleed the M/C first, look to see if there are air bubbles in the reservoir when the pedal is pushed down. That is usually a sign there is air in the M/C, just have someone push the pedal and hold it down, crack the line coming out of the M/C (not the one going in if this is a SII or early IIa- and, with a rag around the fitting please) and then tighten the line, then have them let up on the petal. See if that gets the bubble to go away. You might need to rebleed @ the slave cyl when you are done.

PS if this is a SII or IIa, you can watch the pushrod on the slave clynider and see if that is moving, that's a good sign the clutch is working ok. Though, I have had them adjusted improperly and had to lengthen them in order to get the clutch to work at all.



Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenix37 View Post
Thanks Brent! Bleeding this clutch is a pain in my butt. been at it all morning and still cant get the clutch to disengage. The master and slave both looked fairly new so Im assuming they arent bad but that could be a mistake or just wishful thinking.
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  #44  
Old September 13th, 2013, 04:41 PM
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phoenix37
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john
97 D90 ST / 1957 S1 109/ 1983 LS110
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Thanks DB..its series 3 so the slave is inside the bell housing..Im going to try reverse bleeding and if that doesnt work Ill move onto brakes so I can try the other suggestions you made.
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  #45  
Old September 13th, 2013, 04:45 PM
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evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
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My money is on stuck clutch.

Just driving it with the clutch depressed worked in my situation after a few good revs.
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  #46  
Old September 13th, 2013, 06:07 PM
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john
97 D90 ST / 1957 S1 109/ 1983 LS110
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Seems I have an endless supply of air. Im assuming there is a leak somewhere. bled it countless times...
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  #47  
Old September 13th, 2013, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenix37 View Post
Seems I have an endless supply of air. Im assuming there is a leak somewhere. bled it countless times...
Well, I guess that means replacing both cylinders and the flex line. The rebuild kits are dirt cheap so if the bore is good I would be tempted to do that.
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  #48  
Old September 13th, 2013, 07:03 PM
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phoenix37
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john
97 D90 ST / 1957 S1 109/ 1983 LS110
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Thats kind of what I was thinking... Can you clarify for me is there anyway to view if the pushrod is moving the clutch fork on a series 3
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  #49  
Old September 13th, 2013, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenix37 View Post
Thats kind of what I was thinking... Can you clarify for me is there anyway to view if the pushrod is moving the clutch fork on a series 3
I have only owned one series III. Is there an inspection plate on the bellhousing?
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  #50  
Old September 13th, 2013, 10:06 PM
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john
97 D90 ST / 1957 S1 109/ 1983 LS110
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Thats good to know.. This is my first series III. Decided to pull the wing.. This thing has years of crap built up in it so figure might as well get it all cleaned up.. I need to replace the passenger side wing anyway so tear down begins.. My companions dont seem to like the idea! They sense the can of worms has just been opened!
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  #51  
Old September 13th, 2013, 10:15 PM
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Even if the wing has a dent, it would be a shame to ruin the lovely uniform patina and replace it.
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  #52  
Old September 13th, 2013, 10:26 PM
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john
97 D90 ST / 1957 S1 109/ 1983 LS110
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its actually just the outer panel of the passenger wing.. Believe me I dont want to mess up the patina either but the first thing the 16 year old said when she saw the truck was "your gonna fix that right?!" I guess I can try banging it out first.
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  #53  
Old September 13th, 2013, 10:30 PM
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It won't be perfect but it can be made much more presentable. I hammered (rubber mallet hammering onto wood with a blanket over it) a dent nearly that bad and it turned out ok. You could tell it was damaged, but it was generally the shape of the original.
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  #54  
Old September 13th, 2013, 10:43 PM
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phoenix37
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john
97 D90 ST / 1957 S1 109/ 1983 LS110
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Ill try that first... doesnt need to be perfect just presentable.. Its got dents and dings all over it so not a big deal.
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  #55  
Old September 14th, 2013, 10:40 AM
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phoenix37
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john
97 D90 ST / 1957 S1 109/ 1983 LS110
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Jeff is this the plate you are talking about?
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  #56  
Old September 15th, 2013, 10:31 AM
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phoenix37
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john
97 D90 ST / 1957 S1 109/ 1983 LS110
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The tear down continues... For some reason she wasnt excited to be woken up at 8am on Sunday to help work on her car... Teenagers go figure! Hey what do you guys use for degreaser. Simple green doesnt seem to be cutting it.

Oh and does seem it was a stuck clutch.. Runs and drives now!
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  #57  
Old September 15th, 2013, 10:34 AM
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Brian Kandefer
1957 107 wagon, 94 arles St, 101 FC
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Hard old motor grease is use brake clean and purple power.
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  #58  
Old September 15th, 2013, 10:54 AM
gambrinus
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Russ Wilson
1965 Dormobile
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Degreaser:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Aiken-Purp...-1gal/16778256
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  #59  
Old September 15th, 2013, 08:10 PM
LaneRover
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Brent
1965 109SW
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At times I have used the spray on engine cleaners available at most autoparts places. First scrape off any big nasty chunks and then warm the engine or transmission up (whichever you are degreasing) and then shut the engine off and spray it on. I would recommend putting newspaper or cardboard underneath to catch drips. You hose off after letting it sit for a bit.

Have not used the purple stuff but it could be great.
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  #60  
Old September 15th, 2013, 08:14 PM
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Castrol super clean (purple stuff) and a putty knife (thin flexible one) and wire brush. Be careful as it eats aluminium so rinse it off after you are done. Do it while the engine and trans are hot.
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