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  #21  
Old September 11th, 2013, 11:06 AM
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john
97 D90 ST / 1957 S1 109/ 1983 LS110
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Ok made some progress with the Marvels. Cranked it this morning and we have compression. Drained the gas tank and swapped the fuel filter and turned it over and it started!

Amazing... except it will only run if the key is in the start position. Im missing a wire somewhere as there is no power to the coil unless the starter is engaged.

Here is a picture of my key switch... I dont see any other wires to attach here. What am i missing? Ive got a brown wire , white and white/red. Wiring diagram shows another brown that goes to the horn but cant imagine that would effect it running. Is one of these wires in the wrong position?


Ive also got this green wire from the coil that isnt attached... I dont see any green wire going to the coil on the diagram... as you guys can tell wiring is not my thing.
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  #22  
Old September 11th, 2013, 11:18 AM
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mark kellgren
in between D's in an 04 D2
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well your coil + should be on position II, and your starter solenoid + should be the only one on position III. figure out which one is position III and get positive ID on which wire runs strait down to your starter. Your coil is getting + from the red wire. Dump it and connect the green wire to the ignition pos II. You only need one + lead going to the coil. I'm guessing that red wire is going straight down to your starter solenoid. what a mess.
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  #23  
Old September 11th, 2013, 11:25 AM
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john
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Got it...thanks...actually the red wire runs to an electric fuel pump. Looks like they by passed the mechanical pump.
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  #24  
Old September 11th, 2013, 11:35 AM
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mark kellgren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenix37 View Post
Got it...thanks...actually the red wire runs to an electric fuel pump. Looks like they by passed the mechanical pump.
Nightmare! get that fuel pump wire off that and run it from position II and through a fuse ASAP!
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  #25  
Old September 11th, 2013, 11:43 AM
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john
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10-4...
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  #26  
Old September 11th, 2013, 12:39 PM
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Personally, I would replace the electric pump and get it back to the mechanical pump. A lot of times the electrics put out the wrong pressure and make it run like crap. The rebuild kit for the mechanical pump is pretty cheap last time I checked a decade ago. It is basically a new diaphram.

My experience is that if it has been sitting it will tend to run like crap (you did put in fresh gas and lead additive, right?) until it gets a couple hundred miles on it and the rings and valves reseat.

The SIIa switches tend to short so they don't shut down etc. Not sure about SIII switches. Worst case just buy a generic one for $10. It goes without saying, but you should change the oil before running it too much. 20w50 high mileage is my choice for series motors, but rotella should work too. Frankly it should be fine with anything as it does not have hydraulic lifters.

Also worth checking valve clearances as you have the valve cover off.
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  #27  
Old September 11th, 2013, 03:46 PM
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john
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Yes fresh gas and additive. Ive got a spare mechanical pump so I will dump the electric one shortly. Just actually came back from buying a generic ignition switch and going to change the oil..
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  #28  
Old September 11th, 2013, 04:08 PM
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Steve Maietta
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Well thats awesome that you got it running in a day! So it was a stuck valve I'm assuming?
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  #29  
Old September 11th, 2013, 04:12 PM
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Well thats awesome that you got it running in a day! So it was a stuck valve I'm assuming?
I am willing to bet.

The reason I asked if it ran is usually running it (it will start on two cylinders) will often free up the valves and get them to seat again.
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  #30  
Old September 11th, 2013, 04:48 PM
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mark kellgren
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I am willing to bet.

The reason I asked if it ran is usually running it (it will start on two cylinders) will often free up the valves and get them to seat again.
They don't make em like that anymore! That is why we love old rovers right there.
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  #31  
Old September 11th, 2013, 04:52 PM
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So awesome! I can't tell you how excited she was to get home from school and turn the key and have the thing start! Priceless moment right there.. Got to love rovers...Sitting for 10+ years outdoors in new england and she runs after a few hours of tinkering...
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  #32  
Old September 11th, 2013, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenix37 View Post
So awesome! I can't tell you how excited she was to get home from school and turn the key and have the thing start! Priceless moment right there.. Got to love rovers...Sitting for 10+ years outdoors in new england and she runs after a few hours of tinkering...
Always broken, rarely broken down.

I still remember my dad helping me with my '59 over winter vacation in college in an unheated garage in Niagara Falls. The first time it started (he cleaned the points -- I had no idea what points even were) it fired right up with gas squirted in the carb.
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  #33  
Old September 11th, 2013, 05:28 PM
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mark kellgren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenix37 View Post
So awesome! I can't tell you how excited she was to get home from school and turn the key and have the thing start! Priceless moment right there.. Got to love rovers...Sitting for 10+ years outdoors in new england and she runs after a few hours of tinkering...
Tell her it is highly unlikely the service engine light or 3 amigos will come to the party.
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  #34  
Old September 11th, 2013, 05:51 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Well done!
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I'm here for the D's
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  #35  
Old September 11th, 2013, 09:19 PM
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Great job, John! Let me know if I can help.
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Pete

1966 ECR Series IIA
1970 Series IIA (Stella)
1997 D90 ST
2011 LR4 HSE
2010 Range Rover Supercharged

Sadly gone (some more sadly than others):
1983 D110 Double Cab 300 TDi
1989 RRC
1996 D1
2006 LR3
2008 RR
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  #36  
Old September 11th, 2013, 09:34 PM
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john
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Thanks guys...little victories... next we start on the brakes...
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  #37  
Old September 11th, 2013, 09:54 PM
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john
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Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Wow cool...Thanks!
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  #38  
Old September 11th, 2013, 11:12 PM
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And the clutch version. http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...-puma-defender

You might need to do some replumbing/reflaring, but long term it would be worth it.

-Jeff
Seems like a hard way to save a few dollars. Flare brake lines is one of my least favorite (and successful) tasks and I find genuine Lucas hydraulic cylinders last 10-15 years and are not that expensive.
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  #39  
Old September 12th, 2013, 08:27 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Yeah my clutch master is leaking after a few years already. I guess I'll have to look at this mod.
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  #40  
Old September 12th, 2013, 08:56 AM
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mark kellgren
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there is a thread somewhere that someone had a company bore out their clutch master and put in a brass sleeve to make it a permanent fix for the master. That might be the best approach. find a used one and send that in for the mod, then swap when the one you have starts to leak. I will prob do that at some point.

update: here's the thread: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...t=brass+clutch
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