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  #1  
Old May 18th, 2004, 06:18 PM
redrover

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Vdo

I just bought a egauges progamable vdo speedo. I have a 97 d90 and am looking for someone who has installed in a 97. The wiring is complete jibberish to me. My mannual does not help and neither does searching. THANKS JP
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  #2  
Old May 18th, 2004, 06:23 PM
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JP, not sure what you need help with but here are a couple referances for VDO that came up in the searches:
http://www.defendersource.com/tech/s...placement.html
http://www.defendersource.com/discus...s/16/1022.html
http://www.defendersource.com/discus...s/16/2063.html
http://www.defendersource.com/discus...s/16/2405.html
http://www.defendersource.com/faq/In...ts.html#Speedo
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  #3  
Old May 19th, 2004, 04:30 PM
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JP,

Did you get all the info you needed? If not, I've installed a programmable VDO in my 110 and could possibly help you out. The wiring is pretty straightfoward, and I think the only difference between our trucks is that I don't have a VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor). BTW, the sender I used in my transfer case is PN YBE100540 (the AMR # indicated in one of the links is obsolete).
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  #4  
Old May 19th, 2004, 04:55 PM
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ryan, how did you do it? I have a sensor in my t-case and it has a 3 wire connection. what do i do?


Randy
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  #5  
Old May 19th, 2004, 05:42 PM
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Randy,

There are basically three things that need to be wired on the VDO: 1) Lights - use existing speedo light circuit, and wire the two VDO lamps in series, 2) Power - use ignition switched power tp pin 4 and grd to pin 3, and 3) Speed Sensor. The speed sensor is potentially the most confusing part. I have the YBE100540 sender in my T-case, and it's a 2-wire sensor. So I ran shielded cable from it to the speedo, pins 7 & 8 (no intermediate VSS since I don't have any electronics in my truck). If you have a Hall effect 3-wire sensor, then split the white wire to speedo pins 6 & 8, black wire to pin 3, and red wire to pin 2.

Now you need to calibrate the speedo. If you drive around without calibrating it, you may think it's not working but the calibration is just way off. For my sender, I set the Pulse setting to 7650 (this works for my setup: 3.54 final drive, 1.22 transfer case, 35" tires). Use a GPS or mile markers to tweak it in.

Hope that helps.
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  #6  
Old May 19th, 2004, 06:51 PM
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cool thanks. my t-case is out of a 2000 defender and it has a 3pin sender that is actually a vdo part. it must be the hall sender then.
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  #7  
Old May 19th, 2004, 07:23 PM
redrover

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Hi Randy, What color are your wires coming out of sender. if I have a 97 , wouldnt all wires running into my ome speedo get used on new speedo? My old speedo has 6 wires running into it--yellow, thin blk, blk/red , thicker blk , white , red. I assume one red is switched from ignition. And maybe one blk is a ground. My problem is I have no clue what or where my sender is. I installed my lt230rc gears solo, but other than disconnecting multiplugs, I dont remember the plug set up. I looked under and around case , but cant get a good view of all wiring. Any ideas appreciated. JP
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  #8  
Old May 19th, 2004, 09:57 PM
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I have no clue what the plug colors are. I just see that the plug has a 3 pin connector for a plug to go in it.
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  #9  
Old May 28th, 2004, 09:05 PM
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Been meaning to get back to this.

Randy - It does sound like you've got a Hall Effect sender. These generally have three leads in this order: Power, Gnd, Output. I don't know if Land Rover follows any color coding conventions, but if you find a schematic for it, that would be the easiest way to sort it out. Otherwise you can do some continuity tests and verify the pin assignments (I think it should react like a transistor with Base, Collector, Emitter pins). Otherwise, it might be easier just to go to the YBE100540 sender, if they're interchangeable, which is inductive, and simpler to deal with (only 2 wires and no power required).

JP - I think you can use your existing speedo wiring. I haven't seen a schematic, but here's my guesses based on the wires you identified and other schematics I've seen:

Yellow = VSS
Thin Black = Gnd
Black/Red = VSS
Thick Black = Gnd
White = Ign Switched Power
Red = Lamp Switched Power

You can easily verify ignition switched power and lamped switched power by using a voltmeter to see if they're hot when you switch the ign or lamps On. You can easily verify Grounds by checking continuity to ground. So all that leaves are the VSS signals. AFAIK, the YBE100540 sender that I'm using is also used in the '97 Defenders. If so, then it's an inductive sensor that just uses two wires and provides an open/closed circuit depending upon sensor rotational position. So this can easily be tested by placing a continuity meter on the two suspected VSS wires, and see if the signal goes high and low as the truck moves. If you actually have a 3-wire Hall Effect sensor, then you'll have to sort it out like Randy.
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  #10  
Old May 28th, 2004, 11:37 PM
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very easy hookup

RedRover,
You can use the speed sensor output from the ECU for the gauges signal input. I've been having problems wiring it into a 95 D90, but it is easy on your 97 D90.
Feel free to call me @ 303-918-3876
Jeff C.
JC's Rover & 4x4
jcrover4x4@comcast.net

P.S. I live just south of Denver, if your close I can help you out.
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  #11  
Old May 29th, 2004, 07:29 AM
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I will take a pic of my sender and post it for you to see. I think the pins are marked +, - and o....
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  #12  
Old June 5th, 2004, 02:13 PM
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VDO Speedo Problem

To anyone who has a '94 with VDO Programmable Speedo:

I am having trouble getting the speedo to work right. I have it installed correctly per the directions, and have the cables routed with an adapter to the transducer on the frame. When I go through the programming, all works well, and the odometer is right on mile after mile on the highway. The problem is that the speedometer needle is bouncing around. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Mark
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  #13  
Old June 11th, 2004, 02:50 PM
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I noticed this post a while ago but wasn't sure of the answer until I found another source of information to corroborate my initial thoughts. Anyway, for what its worth I found this:

>If there's no noise accompanying the bouncing it's likely that your speedometer cable has been kinked. >The only cure for that is a new cable.
>
>"Bouncing" can also be caused by the speedometer head drying out. When a speedometer is assembled >or repaired, they usually put a drop of oil on the bearings. If this oil gets old and gummy or collects a lot >of dust it will cause the bouncing you describe.


Hope this helps.

DJ
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  #14  
Old June 11th, 2004, 04:32 PM
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He is talking about an electronic speedo. I'd say it is buggered. Probably best to ask VDO............
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  #15  
Old June 11th, 2004, 08:59 PM
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Mark...the problem most likely lies before the vdo adapter. the speedo cable is sticky or kinked or the pulse counter at the end of cable is dirty inside causing erratic pulse counts. the total counts per mile might add up correctly but the short term counts vary causing the speedo to jump around. that's what happened to mine. i replaced the unit. Dave
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  #16  
Old June 11th, 2004, 09:52 PM
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ok, here is the sender that is in my truck and the wire. I believe this would be from a TD5 truck. the wires are, white/green, black, black/red... any ideas what type of sensor it is orhow to hook it up?

Randy
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  #17  
Old June 11th, 2004, 10:39 PM
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Randy

Have a look at this link, page 12, right hand side, the 12V option: (http://www.lowtension.com/performance%20kit.pdf). Is your sensor the Hall Effect with an Open Collector circuit? Sorry, but I could only tell that the sensor was made by VDO, however, it really looks like it.

Regardless, the white/green line is probably the sensor output, black is ground, and the red/black is the sensor hot lead. With some 0.250" blue spade terminals & adhesive lined 3/16" heat-shrink

1. Attach a hot lead from the battery to terminal #4. Make sure this line is fused appropriately.
You should splice into another hot lead in your dash that is already fused and functions with the
lamps. I spliced into my fuel gauge hot lead.

2. Next attach the red/black to terminal #2. This is the sensors power lead.

3. Butt-splice the white/green line to terminals #6 & #8.

4. Finally, complete the circuit and ground the system (both the gauge and the sensor) by piggy-
backing the solid black wire from the sensor & main ground line to terminal #3, e.g. you should
have one black wire running from the sensor to terminal #3 AND another black wire (supplied by
you) running from terminal #3 to a ground source.


At this point the speedo should be good-to-go and you can should calibrate it. Hope this helps.

DJ
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  #18  
Old June 11th, 2004, 10:50 PM
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DJ beat me to it. His instructions are correct except I looked at a TD5 electrical schematic, and the wire color coding is:

WG = Power
B = Ground
BR = Sensor Output

So follow DJ's instructions except connect WG (Power) to pin #2 and BR (Sensor Output) splits to pins 6 and 8.
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  #19  
Old June 11th, 2004, 10:56 PM
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Nice Ryan! My "color coding" would have had Randy pretty frustrated at the end of the day! By the way, where did you locate the TD5 electrical schematic?

DJ
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  #20  
Old June 11th, 2004, 11:05 PM
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i have it on the Rave CD. Hopefully it's better than my LR manual where I've found several errors relative to what's actually wired in my truck.
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