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  #61  
Old July 31st, 2006, 10:12 AM
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Dave Souza
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What a disappointment. I'm pretty sure the info I got of the old Yahoo groups archives was for the pre-97 trucks though. Of course, those trucks were 5 years newer then. I will say that mine bounces a bit, even using the hall effect and modified cable. Not bad, but cruising along steady it will move up and down 1-3 MPH sort of regularly.

I'll tell you, you've got to wonder what kind of info the ECU is getting with the signal bouncing around like that. My truck idles too high for a few seconds when coming to a stop, I've thought it was a bad VSS.

Scott I didn't know this wire went to the top right of the engine bay, I thought it when only from the transfer case to the ECU.... ?
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  #62  
Old July 31st, 2006, 07:28 PM
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Scott
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I wasnt sure it would work. Wire is really thin small guage stuff and I suspect there is a lot of noise between the VSS and the speedo at this point. I was hoping for the best. Fortunately I still have the hall effect sensor that I got with the speedo (before I found out about trying the VSS wire). Guess its time to go get my cable adapted (good thing I didnt throw it out - its buggered but enough is still good to adapt).
ECU is likely just looking for a signal to know the car is not stood. With a signal that noisy I doubt it really cares too much. Besides after putting bigger tires on and regearing, no one seems to have much problem w/ the ECU, even though this would throw the signal off a bit.

As for the idle deal, I've had a number of cars that would do that - idle high (~1100) until it came to a dead stop and then the idle would drop to 800 or so. (This is what my speedo did - go figure). My truck used to do that but stopped not too long ago. I figured something got out of whack, but I havent dug yet and it hasnt affected anything yet.

VSS wire goes over to the right frame rail, along it for a bit, up into the engine compartment along the firewall to the upper corner where there is a plug before it goes in to the ECU. I tapped in just after the plug. (joys of having the factory manual - for once it was useful!)
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  #63  
Old August 26th, 2006, 01:44 AM
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Ken Loy
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Is the verdict then to modify the speedo cable rather than just do the wire mod?

Scott, once you made that change (presuming you did), did the needle jumpiness go away?
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  #64  
Old August 26th, 2006, 07:15 AM
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Bryan Tate
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That's what I would do. The wire is quick and easy, but pretty much makes the speedo worthless for any accurate reading
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  #65  
Old August 26th, 2006, 05:33 PM
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Eric
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I used a brass 3/8 - 1/2 NPT adapter to mount the hall effect sender directly to the VSS. I shortened the threaded end of the adapter by a 1/8" or so. Both senders secure well enough to the pipe thread of the adapter. I used RTV when I was assembling them and simply used the short square peg drive that came with the VDO sender. Works great.

BTW, I was not able to get the yellow wire trick to work reliably... Accurate speeds below 30-40 MPH, but would never read over 40 no matter how fast I went. Needle bounced al the time as well.
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  #66  
Old August 27th, 2006, 04:10 PM
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I still have the yellow wire hooked up. Needle appears steady at highway speeds (but its a bit slow right now - pulses thing in the vdo set at 5010 if I remember). On the trail (when I'm not paying attention) its still up and down whenever it feels like it.
I have the old speedo cable (its buggered) that I could cut and adapt. Still have the hall effect converter box somewhere. The speedo shop I called wanted ~$80 to fix my speedo cable .... needless to say I've not done it yet. Erics method of hooking the hall effect directly to the vss looks interesting... might try that next time I feel motivated.
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  #67  
Old March 14th, 2007, 10:46 PM
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I think I found a drop-in speedo transducer for us!

I knew there had to be one somewhere, and I think I may have found an easy to fit speedometer transducer. A british company called Metron Transducers has a heck of a selection of different fittings on their speedometer transducers, and they are adjustable in the number of pulses per rotation from 1 to 8.
They are 3-wire hall-effect transducers, and appear to meet the requirements for the programmable VDO speedometer pretty closely.

The great part though is that it looks as if they will also plug directly into the existing speedometer cable, no modifications required. They even list a number of LR vehicles, including Discoveries and Defenders. It appears that the models 373/374/375/384 are possibly what we are looking for depending on how you want to mount it. The 384 looks to be the best option, just click it onto the cable inside the dash and wire it to the speedometer.

Now, I just need to yank apart my dashboard again and compare the connector to make sure we are in-fact using the "Eurosnap" connector with 3.1mm drive. That, and I need to find out the prices.

-Hans
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  #68  
Old March 16th, 2007, 04:33 PM
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Stephen Whitaker
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Thanks Hans. Keep us posted. I'm getting a little tired of my bouncy-needled, poorly illuminated, stock speedometer.
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  #69  
Old March 16th, 2007, 07:54 PM
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I'd be in for one if you want to order a few.


-John
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  #70  
Old March 16th, 2007, 08:05 PM
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First couple e-mails to them bounced. Will try again monday from a different e-mail address.

-Hans
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  #71  
Old March 23rd, 2007, 01:41 AM
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Any news?
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  #72  
Old March 23rd, 2007, 01:45 AM
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Andrew Najarian
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Forgive my ignorance but what is the purpose of this? Is this just to allow you to install a different speedo, or does it allow you to calibrate the orig. speedo for larger tires? I am planning to put larger tires on my 110 and would like to know how to adjust the speedo for this if possible.

Thanks guys
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  #73  
Old March 23rd, 2007, 02:09 AM
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No, this would be to allow a different speedo.

I haven't heard back yet.

-Hans
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  #74  
Old March 23rd, 2007, 11:59 AM
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YOu can use a stock disco sender and wire it right to a VDO gauge...

Is there anyone making a better speedo to fit in a Series?
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  #75  
Old March 23rd, 2007, 01:09 PM
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But doesn't using the stock Disco sender make you have to remove the existing VSS sensor, and thus throw trouble codes all the time?

-Hans
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  #76  
Old December 4th, 2007, 06:16 PM
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Well, I tried the Autometer gauge, which supposedly has a CPU output lead. Gauge works fine with the existing VSS sensor, but the output is no good for the engine computer. So back to this idea again.

Metron never responded to me after multiple attempts. However, I did find another source for their transducers which is located in the Netherlands. Going to give them a try. www.tachographparts.com

A lot more information on their website, with a few possible options. Either get the drop-in transducer. They also sell the tools and parts needed to convert existing speedo cables to more readily available types.

-Han
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  #77  
Old December 4th, 2007, 07:11 PM
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Can't you just split the VSS output and send it to both? Why send the signal to the computer via the gauge anyway?
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  #78  
Old December 4th, 2007, 07:23 PM
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I think I have the answer to this... think.

We don't use it for VDO speedos, but we make an adapter that mates to the 1993-1995 EFI factory speed sensor (that box run by a short speedo cable on the LH frame rail) and then uses the late model 110/Disco speed sensor on the other end.

We use this in a different way. We use it to be able to run a 14CUX EFI system and update the entire dash to the 2006 spec stuff (newer non cable speed) on our restorations of 110s, but this should solve the problem you guys are having with th VDO. It will keep the factory EFI speed transducer for the 14CUX and give you a signal for the VDO.
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  #79  
Old December 4th, 2007, 07:48 PM
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I don't believe it will work to just split the signal wire, the issue I have with the Autometer stuff is that you have to re-wire the VSS totally. I had hoped the output in the gauge would drive the EFI computer, but it doesn't. The speedometer looks for a switched ground, the ECU looks for a switched postive feed. So in my case, I can't run both from one sensor.

I'm also finding that the existing VSS sensor in the hot-wire system isn't so great either. Fine when it's cold, but after the truck gets warmed up the accuracy turns to crap. The 3-wire hall-effect sensors are much more accurate than the reed style 2-wires. The ECU only needs it to see if the vehicle is moving or not, to open the throttle stepper a bit to prevent stalling as the engine idles while you slow down.

Mike, your idea sounds almost like what I am trying to do with the metron transducer. The only difference being that you wouldn't need an adapter, you just snap this one in where the speedometer disconnects and use the existing drive cable. The other option I am pursuing is just changing the end of the existing cable to accept a standard GM threaded sensor, but I am having trouble finding places to find the parts and crimper. That newest link does sell them, but I have to check a few things first.
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  #80  
Old December 7th, 2007, 04:35 PM
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George Kase
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Hans,
please keep us posted on progress...very interested
George
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