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  #41  
Old March 25th, 2006, 06:52 PM
btate
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Bryan Tate
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Ok,
For us 94 folks that have the old school odometer....Do you have any idea if there is a model that connects back in to the speedo cable without major adjustments?

Thanks
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  #42  
Old April 5th, 2006, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ Menasco
both are true. The miliage is zero out of the box. If you want to add the current mileage of you D90 you can do that too. I took mine to the local speedo shop and they adjusted the milage on the odometer of the VDO to represent the true milage of the vehicle. I think it was about $70?

DJ
I just bought the VDO programmable at North Hollywood Speedometer. If you buy it from them, they will program the odometer mileage free of charge, and if you send in the original speedometer, they can even swap out the gauge face and needle for a $50 service fee.
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  #43  
Old April 6th, 2006, 08:34 AM
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Scott
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Spalding
I just bought the VDO programmable at North Hollywood Speedometer. If you buy it from them, they will program the odometer mileage free of charge, and if you send in the original speedometer, they can even swap out the gauge face and needle for a $50 service fee.
Damn, so now you tell me... I just got mine from summit and need to find a local shop to do the cable conversion for the adaptor (and hopefully either adjust the mileage or tell me how to do it).
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  #44  
Old April 6th, 2006, 11:13 AM
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Re: Mileage adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by scoloco
Damn, so now you tell me... I just got mine from summit and need to find a local shop to do the cable conversion for the adaptor (and hopefully either adjust the mileage or tell me how to do it).
I think only a speedo shop can do it. As you look at the back of the VDO speedo, on the left side, remove the light. Look in the hole. On the right edge of the hole on the PCB there are three spots onto which your local speedo tech will solder some leads, hook up to a computer, and use a proprietary computer program to adjust the odometer.

Sorry my timing wasn't better. . . .
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  #45  
Old April 6th, 2006, 11:24 AM
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Thomas
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I just recently switched mine to a programmable VDO, and I think my speedo shop charged me about $150 bucks for them to make the new cable, install it and program it.
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  #46  
Old April 18th, 2006, 01:59 AM
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VDO Programmable: Yellow Wire?

I apologize for starting yet another thread on the VDO Programmable Speedo. I have a very specific question, and reviewing the previous threads hasn't answered it.

I installed a VDO programmable into my '97 Defender today, swapping pins in the factory connector. Red/BLK for VSS, WHT/GRN for switched 12 volt. One solid black for ground. The RED/WHT and other solid black for the illumination. I was able to get the speedo calibrated using a GPS, and it seems to be working fine, with one caveat:

In the VDO instructions, it says that when the speedometer is powered up, the needle will make a single sweep up to the top of the scale and back to zero. But when I switch the key on, the needle makes a slight jump below zero, and then back up to zero.

All that is really left to be suspicious of is the yellow lead, which goes to number 7 on the LR speedo. For lack of a better idea, I have left it in that position on the VDO. On the VDO, that position is used by the speedometer when wired to an inductive sensor. On the LR wiring diagram, the yellow wire goes from the speedo to the Engine Control System.

So, my question: what are the ramifications of disconnecting that lead altogether? Does the ECU use that wire to get a signal from the speedo or vice versa? If the former, what happens if the ECU doesn't get that signal? If the ECU does in fact require a signal, what are my options?


Thanks,

Spalding

P.S.: I haven't checked for a VSS error code. My CHECK ENGINE light is on most of the time owing to the ubiquitous P1317/Rough Road issue. But that is another story.

Follow-up Post:



Er, never mind. I've been working from the wrong wiring diagram I guess. I'd still like to know why my speedo dips below 0 when it powers up rather than going to the top of the scale. . .

I guess I gotta cop to it . . .
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  #47  
Old May 20th, 2006, 11:09 AM
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Bryan Tate
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VDO speed sensor, can you install to cable?

Ok,
Doing the full VDO vision gauge swap as discussed frequently.
(94 d90 r-380)
I saw a post that linked ECU problems (throwing codes and check engine lights) to lack of factory speed sensor input. This tells computer what speed the truck is driving. From what I can figure the speedo cable goes into a sensor housing that sends this info.

My question....is there a problem with simple placing the speedometer end of the old speedo cable into the VDO speed sensor??
It will take some rigging, but the factory plastic connector is not the best setup anyway, I could get it at least that strong??

It seems that it would elimate some problems and be alot simple install????
Thanks
Bryan

Follow-up Post:

Maybe I am missing something.
Does the new sensor install to t-case (maybe it doesn't bypass the old sensor)?
or does it install to back side of the vss?
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  #48  
Old May 20th, 2006, 11:33 PM
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Dave Souza
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btate
Does the new sensor install to t-case (maybe it doesn't bypass the old sensor)?
or does it install to back side of the vss?
bryan

The 'new' sensor you're talking about is the hall effect sender, right? I just did this install last week on my truck. The hall effect sender is installed after the vehicle speed sender, which you must keep. That is, you've got a cable from the transfer case to the little box on the frame (VSS). Out of that box some wires go to the ECU, and another cable runs up into the engine bay then through the bulkhead to the back of the stock speedo. This is your 'speedometer cable' and the one that you'll modify in option 1 below. You do have to keep the factory vehicle speed sensor else you'll have the code issues, etc., that you mention. So to install the VDO, you have two options:

1, have a speedo shop cut down the long cable to the speedo into a small cable with the stock end for the vss and a 'new' 7/8" GM end which is screwed into the 'new' hall effect sender. The hall effect sender has 3 wires that run to the back of the VDO speedo (12v, signal, Grnd). This seems to be the standard route, and is what I did, but it cost more than expected for the cable modfication ($50)

2, I just found out today there is another option, less expensive because you don't need the hall effect sendor or the cable modification, but also seems easier. You can simply tap into one of the wires coming from the vss (little box between speedo cables) and run a wire directly to the VDO Speedo for a pulse signal. I think I read that the vss has 2 wires, a green and yellow, both go up to the ECU. There may be another wire, but either way it's the yellow wire that sends the speed pulse signal to the ECU (Green is 12v power). Apparently this signal can also be read by the VDO speedo, you just run it straight to pin 8 on the back of the VDO.

I found this new option looking back at some old posts to the D90 yahoo group. I wish I had read this before buying the hall effect sender and sending out the speedo cable! I'd be interested to see how it works if you go this route. It seems the simpler way for sure.

Good luck, let me know how it goes.

-Dave
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  #49  
Old May 21st, 2006, 08:08 AM
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Bryan Tate
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great,
your approach sounds simple.
I will try it this morning if time allows.
I also saw this from a buddy Tom Peacock....


As for the new VDO cable, it has the wrong fitting to sinc up to the OEM cable and can't plug directly into the TC. I read a the thread on this site in the FAQ's about switching to the VDO programmable speedo, and it said to go to a speedometer shop and:

1. Tell them you will bring in the new VDO sender/cable and your old cable.

2. Ask them to install a 7/8" x 18 male end onto your old cable. This new male end gets installed on the speedometer end of the cable, and this (newly shortened) cable only needs to be 3-4" long. The existing female end of your original cable is retained.

3. Using this new short cable as an adapter, screw the original female end into the little frame mounted box right where it used to go, and screw the new male end into the female end of the VDO sender/cable, and zip-tie the sender box (which is a cube about 1-1/2" on each side) to the frame so it doesn't bounce around.

4. Hook up the speedo end of the sender/cable to the VDO speedo.

5. Calibrate per directions.

6. Drive around in complete confidence that your speedometer is accurate for a change.
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  #50  
Old May 21st, 2006, 10:35 AM
btate
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Bryan Tate
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Ok,
I found the yellow wire and taped into ready to hook up to speedo
The Hall effect sender installation shows to connect to pin 6 & 8 (not just 8)

Do still recommend going to pin 8 only?
Thanks
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  #51  
Old May 21st, 2006, 12:04 PM
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Dave Souza
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What I read said pin 8 only. I'd try that first, then if it doesn't work, try 6 & 8. I just 2x checked the speedo instructions, it says 6 & 8 for the hall effect, 7 & 8 for the inductive, and just 8 for using an 'electronic' transmission. In this case, that's you
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  #52  
Old May 31st, 2006, 01:16 AM
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Ken Loy
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Dave, where did you get your speedo cable modified?
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  #53  
Old May 31st, 2006, 07:39 AM
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Dave Souza
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Don't bother Ken, just hook it straight up to the VSS like Bryan did. Right to Pin 8 on the speedo. I'm pretty sure he got it working, we were emailing offline. Last I know he just needed to calibrate it.

But if you still want to send it out, I got mine done at Hartford Speedometer in Connecticut (check yahoo yellow pages). Cost like $65 with shipping, and took several conversations to explain what I wanted. Of course, I didn't send them the new hall effect sender b/c I already had it installed and wired-up.
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  #54  
Old May 31st, 2006, 08:00 AM
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Bryan Tate
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Correct,
I taped staight into the VSS and sent the Hall effect unit back to e-gauges.

BUT.... I haven't calibrated yet. I have adjusted the pulses so I am close. But I just got the 33's on and haven't gotten out yet to make sure I can dial it in. I feel confident it will work, I had the pulses to high and the needle shot around quickly....ran the miles up fast also.
I lowered the pulses and got the needle to move smoothly, just shows my speed way low now.

I will get the truck back from the stereo store in a few days and will try to find a mile marker or 2 to calibrate by the end of the week.
Bryan
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  #55  
Old July 20th, 2006, 04:41 PM
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John Hilton
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I have done this now as well. Hooked up the yellow wire to pin 8, everything calibrated well and works perfectly except for one thing. .... I come to a stop and occasionally the speedo does not. It will read 30 mph or so and will increase like a tach when the truck is stopped and I rev her up. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

John
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  #56  
Old July 20th, 2006, 05:34 PM
btate
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Bryan Tate
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Ignore it? Just kidding. Mine needle tends to bounce around a bit also. I was thinking my VSS was weak/wearing? But I guess that's the limit of the VSS. I wonder if your pin settings are correct.
I had to flip the small switches different than the original write-up by DJ. Mine does go to zero and stays once stopped. But bounces around 10-15 just before stopping. It seems to be reading a bit low now also. I am going to recalibrate and see if it improves. I may try the Hall effect method if it gets annoying. I assume you have a good ground?
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  #57  
Old July 20th, 2006, 07:03 PM
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John Hilton
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I believe my ground is good. My only issue with it continuing at a stop is the odometer also continues to tick over. I suppose I shouldn't be worried getting all those extra miles per gallon. Thanks for the input.

John
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  #58  
Old July 20th, 2006, 08:31 PM
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Dave Souza
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John it sounds like it only either be the VSS itself or the small cable that runs from the xfer case into the VSS. Do you also have trouble with the idle of the truck while that's happening? Not throughing and codes is it?
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  #59  
Old July 30th, 2006, 11:26 AM
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Scott
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VDO - VSS hookup?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Backstay
I have done this now as well. Hooked up the yellow wire to pin 8, everything calibrated well and works perfectly except for one thing. .... I come to a stop and occasionally the speedo does not. It will read 30 mph or so and will increase like a tach when the truck is stopped and I rev her up. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
John
Ok so I *finally* got around to hooking up my new VDO. I tapped into the yellow wire, went to pin8 (very small guage wire). Calibrated via auto-calibration (came to around 10310 pulses if I read it correctly). Speedo is all over the place. I'll be chugging along at something slow (20mph?) and the needle will go up to 30, and/or 40mph, for a bit before coming back to 20. When I stop it again sits at 20 or 30 before dropping to 0. Once at 0 though, it stays there.
Any thoughts? Or is it just a really dirty signal. Different, or bigger guage wire going to make a difference?
FWIW, I tapped it in the engine bay, top rear right corner where the wire comes up to a plug.
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  #60  
Old July 30th, 2006, 12:02 PM
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Bryan Tate
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This is sounding like a pattern. Mine Jumps also. Seemed to work initially but it wasn't even close to calibrated so that may have dampened the bounce.

My bet is the Factory VSS is not a reliable signal for the VDO swap.

I just got used to it. Seems like a good way to get out of a speeding ticket?? Kidding
If I find a speedo shop I may reorder the Hall effect sender and go that route.

Someone else mentioned that the 97 and 94 were different and that maybe a 97 would be smoother?
But I have not looked up part numbers to verify. Something about it plugging into the transfer case directly.
But I don't have a 97 close by to verify.

Bryan
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