VDO Gauge Parts/Installation/Problems Merged Threads - Page 7 - Defender Source
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  #121  
Old September 20th, 2009, 07:46 AM
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Is that a german thing?
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  #122  
Old September 20th, 2009, 07:52 AM
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I think the "k" stands for "konnection", must be a german thing.
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  #123  
Old September 20th, 2009, 09:50 AM
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Thanks
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  #124  
Old September 30th, 2009, 10:57 PM
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I've got a weird think with my VDO programmable speedo that I wired to a VSS.

It's erratic.
It's almost like it warms up. I can start the truck and drive away without the speedo registering, but if I drive continuously on the freeway the needle will start to bounce gradually increasing it's upper range till it eventually stabilizes and settles on actual speed. After that it will work for a while.
It's bizarre.
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  #125  
Old October 1st, 2009, 10:39 AM
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I would suspect the VSS is the problem.
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  #126  
Old October 1st, 2009, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90
I would suspect the VSS is the problem.
It's a YBE100530 and it's brand new.
???
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  #127  
Old October 1st, 2009, 05:31 PM
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Loose wire?

Did the VSS male match the speedo drive gear female?
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  #128  
Old October 2nd, 2009, 10:07 AM
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Hey, it's like an electronic version of a Series speedometer!


Quote:
Originally Posted by JSQ
I've got a weird think with my VDO programmable speedo that I wired to a VSS.

It's erratic.
It's almost like it warms up. I can start the truck and drive away without the speedo registering, but if I drive continuously on the freeway the needle will start to bounce gradually increasing it's upper range till it eventually stabilizes and settles on actual speed. After that it will work for a while.
It's bizarre.
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  #129  
Old October 15th, 2009, 09:21 PM
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My VDO Oil pressure gauge isn't working, what the best way to test the sender? I believe all the wires are correct, as long as the G=Gauge and WK=warning light.
Thanks
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  #130  
Old October 15th, 2009, 09:25 PM
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Do you have a multimeter? Presumably the sender alters the resistance in proportion to pressure so you should be able to clip the leads and see if the resistance changes. The range I am not sure of offhand but the VDO docs may give that.
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  #131  
Old October 26th, 2009, 11:03 AM
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Installing VDO temp and EGT gauge

Guess this could be merged into the big VD thread, dunno...well, I bought a VDO H2O temp gauge and the EGT one as well. My engine has likely been "tuned," the cap on the IP is dimpled from someone's efforts to remove it, it smokes like hell when you stomp on the pedal and is quite fast. So figured the EGT gauge would be a good idea.

So I got the kit, and installed everything. I actually was able to thread the thermocouple fitting into the EGT blanking plate at the correct angle, don't know how well it is going to seal but we will see. i can always weld something up later if it doesn't work.

A few things I have noticed from reading others' posts on the subject. I saw nothing in the instructions about not cutting the wires to the thermocouple. Fortunately I did not, decided against it for some reason, but later saw someone saying it was very explicitly stated in their instructions not to do that.

Sitting at idle and even revving the engine a bit I never saw the need move off the the first mark on the gauge which is IIRC 250F. I though that was suspect and checked all the fittings on the back. Everything was done up correctly and I had 12v and a good ground on the correct spades. I placed the test light on the t/couple spades and it did not light up. Thinking this was suspect I pulled the connector off the spade and the spade broke off the back of the gauge. F**K there goes $80...I'll phone up egauges to see what the deal is with the voltage. Maybe I just need to actually drive the vehicle to get things warm enough to register on the gauge but I figure even at idle it would be over 250??

Another issue, the egauges website says the kit does not come with a weld in fitting so i bought one, but there was one in the kit as well.

With both the VDO and the Sunpro water temp gauges that were in there, the temp won't get much over 100F at idle.

Last but not least, what is the deal with the oddball connector on the VDO water temp sender. I managed to slide a female spade connector on there but WTF is the intended mate for that one?

So many questions...I know I shouldn't keep it all bottled up inside like this...

thanks
D
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  #132  
Old October 26th, 2009, 11:21 AM
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Just drive it..... You are over thinking things... No it will not be above 250F at idle except after driving hard. A test light is not about to work on a thermocouple. You need a TC gauge...
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  #133  
Old October 26th, 2009, 12:54 PM
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Precisely.
I don't know your exact set-up but the 300Tdi runs very cool when it isn't being flogged.
If you're not pushing boost you will hardly move EGT at all.
Likewise coolant temp should be very low at idle, even in hot conditions.

The converse is also true. If you're blasting along the interstate, particularly uphill, the EGT will rise at a rapid rate. Sustained high rpms will also produce fairly increased coolant temps.

In general it's going to be far less sensitive to ambient temp than the V8s.
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  #134  
Old October 26th, 2009, 05:08 PM
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Thanks John and Jack. My setup is for all intents and purposes stock with the exception of the possible IP tweaking that has been done. Just trying to tie up some loose ends that were left that way in order to get this heap down to the MAR. I've heard these things run cool but even knowing that I've been surprised at my gauge readings. Yes my ability to think gets me in trouble all the time. See Doug's signature line. Usually there is a reason everyone else is doing it some other way. You'd think a gov't employee would be better at leaving well enough alone.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90
Just drive it..... You are over thinking things... No it will not be above 250F at idle except after driving hard. A test light is not about to work on a thermocouple. You need a TC gauge...
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  #135  
Old October 26th, 2009, 05:38 PM
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Dave good thing you didn't cut it. Cutting and soldering it changes the resistance. My egt doesn't come off 0 degrees unless I drive the truck. Even then as Jack said above you will need a grade to get it to climb to anything over 500. As far as coolant temp should be cold as a cucumber again untill you drive it under load and create enough heat to get the thermostat to open. Never been able to get the truck up to operating temp or get the egt gauge to register much if anything sitting in the driveway. Doubt you will see much movement on yours between your house and the museum.
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  #136  
Old June 22nd, 2010, 02:15 PM
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I'm gonna do all my guages (minus the speedo) this weekend and I'm gonna use dj's write up, soooo excited hehe
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  #137  
Old June 22nd, 2010, 11:53 PM
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you will not regret it. The speedo is easy to do as well... After you change the other gauges, YOu will hate the speedo..
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  #138  
Old June 23rd, 2010, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
I placed the test light on the t/couple spades and it did not light up.
D
You want to use a voltmeter for this and measure resistance, not a test light.
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  #139  
Old June 23rd, 2010, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
You want to use a voltmeter for this and measure resistance, not a test light.
Not for a thermocouple. Thermocouples produce millivolts. You really need a thermocouple meter.
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  #140  
Old June 23rd, 2010, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Not for a thermocouple. Thermocouples produce millivolts. You really need a thermocouple meter.
I stand corrected!
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