VDO Gauge Parts/Installation/Problems Merged Threads - Page 4 - Defender Source
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  #61  
Old August 12th, 2007, 11:27 PM
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No problem. Glad I could help.

Ironically when I performed this swap I had to work under a head lamp too. Although I didn't attract any comments.

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  #62  
Old August 12th, 2007, 11:36 PM
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Hmm... my stock gauges (RPM, fuel, speedo) are now very very dim at night. Their lamps do work but are so dim as to be pretty much unreadable in the dark. Any suggestions?
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  #63  
Old August 13th, 2007, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terrapin
Hmm... my stock gauges (RPM, fuel, speedo) are now very very dim at night. Their lamps do work but are so dim as to be pretty much unreadable in the dark. Any suggestions?
Swap them out for VDO. It's a remarkable change. Others have said to change the bulbs for a higher rating, but I like to the look of the VDO Vision.

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  #64  
Old February 2nd, 2008, 02:42 PM
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Question replacing temp guage

i know know, beating dead horse.
what does the S stand for on the back of the vdo guage?

do you have to remove and strip the grounding wires, to replace them with spade connectors so that they fit directly on the negative spade connection on the back of the vdo gauge?

also strip the wires that are for the light bulb and place spade connectors on them as well?

do you have to get the vdo temp sensor as well or can you use the orginal sensor with the vdo guage?
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  #65  
Old February 2nd, 2008, 11:06 PM
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S is for the signal wire.

Yes, you have to remove the connectors and crimp on the new kind since all the connection on the back of the VDO are spades.

You must do the same thing with the light.

And yes, you need the correct temp sender as well. Don't worry, you only lose about a quart of coolant while changing it.
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  #66  
Old February 3rd, 2008, 12:27 AM
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Temp sender #323-416

second to last on this page:
http://www.egauges.com/vdo_send.asp?Sender=250F_120C
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  #67  
Old February 3rd, 2008, 09:48 AM
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more beating of said dead horse
what exactly would happen if i left the old temp sensor in place instead of replacing it with the vdo temp sensor?
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  #68  
Old February 3rd, 2008, 10:06 AM
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Since you dont mind beating a dead horse, i assume you won't be offended if I give you a primer on guage function.

"Sender" is misnomer, its not sending anything. A guage functions by running an electrical circuit to ground - the "sender" is a variable resistor, and the guage is nothing more than a measure of the resistance (which explains why there is only one wire from the guage to the "sender").

So, the idea is that the guage is calibrated to the resistance of the sender, so that it displays something factual without actually measuring it. A sender has whats called an "ohm range" (resistance is measured in ohms) - that is the minimum and max resistances it will measure. The min and max marks on the gauge correspond to these minimum and max figures.

Some guys here have found that the ohm range of the stock fuel sender is close enough to function OK with the VDO guage - the readings are a bit off, but being a fuel gauge, its not an exact science, so people dont care.

There are 2 problems with a mismatched sender and guage. 1) min and max and 2) range. If the min and max are wrong, the guage might peg all the way to one side or the other. If the range is wrong, the needle will swing at the wrong rate.

Since this is a temp guage, its a lot more important that these things line up, since temp is something you want to be fairly exact with.
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  #69  
Old February 3rd, 2008, 11:50 AM
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I appreciate the primer. makes things a little clearer with the truck electrics

Follow-up Post:

just double checking that there are no mods needed for the vdo temp sender unit that im going to have to purchase now?
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  #70  
Old February 3rd, 2008, 12:50 PM
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No mods, pull trigger with confidence.

Follow-up Post:

Just to complete the loop for this thread, here is a link to another thread with all the info.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=13431

Follow-up Post:

I just noticed that ini88 recommended 323-416, and my list has 323-417. I've used 323-417 successfully so I can't comment on how 416 fits.

Follow-up Post:

Except that it looks like its 2mm too small.
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  #71  
Old February 3rd, 2008, 01:39 PM
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sorry about that. 323-417 is the sender you want, which is the second to last on that page. I read it wrong on the page. 323-416 is THE WRONG ONE William.

get #323-417
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  #72  
Old February 3rd, 2008, 01:42 PM
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We learned the hard way last night that 323-416 is the wrong one
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  #73  
Old February 13th, 2008, 02:12 PM
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Talking Vdo Guage Install Problem

installed the gauge and the sensor finally. clipped the wires and added all the proper female spade connectors and shrink tubes. when i started up the engine and ran it for a while to warm up it went all the way up to 220F and a little past. when i let off on the E-brake the needle visibily moved. I am thinking that the two ground wires that were connected on the bracket behind the old temp guage are the culbrit cause when i clipped them and added the new connector to the ground wires i just twisted them together and crimped them into the same spade connector and placed them into the negative postion? (unsure of proper terminology) behind the new temp guage.

Note: the needle did not shoot right up when i first started the engine.
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  #74  
Old February 13th, 2008, 02:30 PM
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I hate to bring up the idea, but it may actually be overheating as well. Was it sitting and idling the whole time? or did you also drive it a bit?

-Hans
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  #75  
Old February 13th, 2008, 02:55 PM
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The water and gas gauge are the same in the back. Remove the ring on the ground and twist those two together and put a female connector on there and slide that into the bottom spade on the VDO gauge. Also the original connectors must be switched around. so if one was on the left it needs to go on the right i believe and vice versa.

|_| - the bottom is where you hook in the ground.

Did you install the new temp sender?
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  #76  
Old February 13th, 2008, 02:57 PM
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Best way to trouble shoot is with alligator clips, just be prepared to replace a fuse (7amp i think, one on bottom left of center console fusebox) if they blow out..
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  #77  
Old February 13th, 2008, 03:01 PM
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Until you successfully isoalte the ground on your temp guage, you will get stray current driving your temp up. I believe the best solution is to have the temp guage be stand-alone.
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  #78  
Old February 13th, 2008, 03:03 PM
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i placed the green blue wire that comes from the sensor onto the "S" terminal on the back of the temp guage and the green wire i placed on the postive terminal.

the two ground wires that were seperate before on the old temp guage i stripped them then twist them together then placed them within the same new connector and then placed that new connector (with the two ground wires connected together) into the negative terminal.
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  #79  
Old February 13th, 2008, 03:20 PM
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what did you do with the light?
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  #80  
Old February 13th, 2008, 03:55 PM
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twisting the two ground wires together was correct or not correct?

i do have the vdo temp sensor installed was just a straight screw in.

the wires for the light i just stripped and placed spade connectors on, and plugged them in without regard for postive or negative postion on the light for the new temp gauge.

when i went to release the hand brake the needle moved back to around the 180F to 200F area. made me think that somehow when the light on the dash for the hand brake went off that i must have done something wrong with the ground wires?

ps. appreiciate all the advice
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