VDO Gauge Parts/Installation/Problems Merged Threads - Page 3

Stmpede · #41 March 8th, 2007, 08:43 PM

Very nicely done.

Grover · #42 March 8th, 2007, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimC

Looks great! Why dont you get a round VDO clock for the third guage and remove the stock clock? You could then move the hazard switch to the middle and add a second 12v socket. I got marine grade 12v sockets made by Sutars from http://www.ssterlingco.com/ - they were about 8 bucks each. The dont have a cig lighter, instead just a rubber cover that says "12V." Of course you would have to want to do that...

Jim,

Thanks! I like your 12v socket idea. With my Hella lamp plugged into my cig lighter, I may need an extra 12v source.

Cheers...

themaxx · #43 March 11th, 2007, 04:30 PM

That sure looks purdy!

Nicely done.

You should have ended your post, just before the step by step directions, with '1995 Defender 90....priceless!'

bjf · #44 August 2nd, 2007, 11:18 PM

I know people complain that defender gauges are hard to read at night. I was just looking on trail head at how they replaced oil lines and I noticed they replaced the temp gauge with a new VDO one. Has anyone done this? Has anyone gone one step further and replaced all the gauges? This is really low priority for me but I would love to know if it has been done and what the results have been. Check out the link below.

http://www.trailhead4x4.com/18401.html

themaxx · #45 August 2nd, 2007, 11:58 PM

Eric at Trailhead is a great guy and easy to deal with. Give him a call, he's very knowledgable about Defenders!

Btw, have you check out Mike's VDO project?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buckon37s

I have all VDO vision gauges except for the speedo. I wanted one last part that I did not change! I have fuel, egt, water, tach. Simple install, just make sure that you get a good ground and the right senders.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buckon37s

FYI: the water temp sender should be 323 095D That took three tries to get that right. Good luck.

**JimC** · #46 August 3rd, 2007, 06:30 AM

This has been done by at least 10 guys here. A search will yield all the part numbers and most of the instructions necessary to do it. Its also not very expensive if you dont swap the speedo.

DJ Menasco · #47 August 3rd, 2007, 11:11 AM

Yep, I've done it.

They're one of the best mods I've installed. That and my Mantec tire carrier.

Here you go. This should help out.

bjf · #48 August 3rd, 2007, 11:50 AM

This info is really helpful. This is definitly on my list of mods. I also noticed Hollywood speed shop will do all the work. Glad I am in LA.

kolvedic · #49 August 3rd, 2007, 11:51 AM

I just did mine 2 months ago and followed DJ's instructions. I went through the two listed Senders and ended up having to get the VDO 323-417 one. My sender is the m16x1.5.

If you can tell which one you need, and need one of the smaller ones, I have a couple in the garage that you can have. Just PM me with an address and i will drop it in the mail.

As for the swap, it was really easy with the instructions. My biggest issue was I could not get the damn speedo cable out, but I could get the gauges out enough to do the work. Ended up that the sleeve on the speedo cable slid down, so I had to slide that back on when putting the gauge panel back in so that I didn't have the bouncy speedo problem.

In retrospect, I should have changed them all while I was in there, it would actually have made the gauge swapping part easier. Not hard, just frustrating.

l8r,
bil

RyanS · #50 August 3rd, 2007, 08:42 PM

I'd really recommend swapping out the gauges, not only because they'll be easier to read, but more importantly is that you'll have more accurate and meaningful readings. I also highly recommend the VDO speedo swap. Works so much better than stock, and you can calibrate it for whatever gearing or tire sizes you have.

bjf · #51 August 3rd, 2007, 10:23 PM

any pics of the installed?

RyanS · #52 August 4th, 2007, 08:34 PM

Barry - Mine will look a little different as I didn't use VDO gauges other than the speedo. I decided to go with Datcon because I felt the gauges were a little easier to read, and they have a warning light as well. I'm not pushing Datcon though because I had a couple bad gauges that needed to be replaced, and they're not as easy to obtain as VDO. Anyway, I've attached some pics of my setup.

chris snell · #53 August 4th, 2007, 09:13 PM

Interesting panel. Not sure I'd go that way myself but it looks like one of the better custom setups. What's with the three oil temperature gauges? What do you do with eight switches?

RyanS · #54 August 4th, 2007, 10:04 PM

Yeah, it's not for everyone. I removed the NAS110 AC fasica so there was a big hole there. I'm still working on cleaning up that area.

I recently finished a 2.8 conversion so I haven't hooked up the two oil temp gauges yet as I have to figure out where to place the senders. The oil gauge on the left is pressure. The two temp gauges on the right will be engine oil and trans oil.

The toggle switches are mainly for lights (roof, brush bar, left side, right side, rear). But they'll also be for some diesel stuff (glow plugs, backup fuel pump, WVO). I still have a lot of wiring to do.

rover4x4 · #55 August 4th, 2007, 10:26 PM

I think ive read that some folks have had some issues with "jumpy" VDO speedometers?

TDI Guy · #56 August 5th, 2007, 12:54 AM

ITs one of the best upgrades and is not really expensive..

bjf · #57 August 5th, 2007, 02:22 AM

That setup is insane. That truck better talk and be able to drive itself. I haven't seen that many gauges in anything that wasn't voiced by William Daniel's since 1986.

DJ Menasco · #58 August 5th, 2007, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSBriggs

Then you obviously havent seen this http://www.tawayama.com/gear/randompics/5043.jpg

-Jeff

Is that Mikes Serious I or the 145?

anthony · #59 August 7th, 2007, 06:31 PM

thanks for the post with the part numbers the original water temp sender is an 18mm and the replacement is a 19mm

chris snell · #60 August 11th, 2007, 03:50 PM

DJ,

Just wanted to say "thanks" for the excellent gauge-swap write-up. I replaced my water temperature gauge and sender last night using your instructions and it was pretty straightforward. A couple of notes...

...The temperature sender seemed to be a very tight fit once it was threaded. I was really worried that I might have cross-threaded it but I re-seated it several times and it was always tight. Used a 19mm socket to crank it down, kind of a pain. No water is leaking, so I guess everything is okay. If you're going to be replacing your thermostat, might as well replace the sender and gauge at the same time because it will make it easy, having everything out of the way. Vice-versa, if you're replacing the gauge.

...My stock gauge had three wires grounded on the center post. Not wanting to cut the original ring terminals (in case the install was not successful), I made a little jumper wire, 3" long with a female .25" spade on one end and a ring terminal on the other, and I bought a tiny little bolt and nut and put all four ring terminals on this and then shrink-wrapped the entire thing. I could go back and cut the ends off, solder the wires together, and put everything into a single spade now that I know it works. Will probably do this once I find my soldering iron.

...I found some nice little insulated spade connectors at the hardware store, which made installation really easy, no shrink-wrapping each one.

...accidentally pulled the housing away from the speedo cable as I was pulling the dash out. Put the dash back together and the speedo still works. I guess I'm okay?

...the new gauge looks funny, sitting next to its stock brethren. I need to replace those, too, I guess.

Funny side note: I'm parked out on the street in front of my house, 2:30AM, working on the truck by the light of a fluorescent work light, dash is ripped apart, wires are everywhere, I'm wearing a headlamp, and this guy walks by and laughs and says "holy s%*t, that is hard core."

thanks again,

Chris