No problem. Here’s how I did my gauge swap. First a couple of notes; I wanted to ensure a good connection without soldering so all the connectors are crimp only with adhesive lined heat-shrink. The latter is something I regret doing because the chance of moisture build-up on the terminals is slim, thus the typical Nylon or PVC barreled connectors should suffice. Plus, if I wanted to be that anal about it I could have just used dielectric grease to prevent water ingress. Also, I did this about two years ago some my memory of the install isn’t precise so be aware that I may have neglected some steps.
Some of the tools and supplies you’ll need are listed below:
• Number 2 Pozidrive (I recommend the ACR version from Snap-On)
• needle nose pliers
• wire stripping/crimping tool and/or diagonal cutters
• 0.250” 10-12 AWG female spade connectors; typically blue (for doubling grounds)
• 0.250” 14-16 AWG female spade connectors; typically blue (for all other connections)
• 0.025” 12-14 AWG adhesive lined heat shrink (only if connectors aren’t insulated; optional)
• Butane Torch (only if connectors aren’t insulated; optional)
• Metric open ended wrench (I’ll have to check the size)
• 50:50 water/antifreeze solution
• Shop towels and a basin to catch & clean up antifreeze
Ok, the first thing you want to do is remove the gauge cluster. With the #2 Pozidrive remove the two screws from both sides of the fascia and the two on the bottom. Gently pull the cluster out and immediately reach behind the speedometer and remove the mechanical Speedo-cable. Its really in there so give it a good pull and don’t worry you won’t break it as long as you pull it directly away from you. If you pull to the side you risk snapping the drive flange.
Now that you have it out you’ll noticed that the cluster is tethered in three spots. Two directly plug into the idiot light cluster and the other is for the gauge cluster. Remove all three (harness plug pic 1). Now you should be able to remove the cluster. If not make a note of any remaining connections and label them with tape (main pic 1).
: Removing the speedometer is easy. Just unscrew the threaded nuts and disconnect all wiring. The directions that come with the Speedo are self explanatory. Since there are a few different ways to install it you should follow the directions that illustrate the “Hall Sensor.” It’s pretty easy. Just remember to leave some slack from the sensor cable so you can remove the gauge cluster with ease in the future.
: I didn’t do this and instead had a local Speedometer shop do it. But you will have to affix 0.250” 14-16 AWG male connectors to the wires from the Speedo sensor.
Fuel and & Water Gauge
: The fuel and water gauge are the easiest to swap out since their electrical configurations are the same (pic 1). First thing you need to do is find the green wires attached to both gauges. There should be two per gauge; one with a clear PVC boot and the other with a clear rubber boot. The connector with the rubber boot is male and must be swapped out for a female connector (water & fuel pic 1). Remove the male spade from the black on green wire (rubber boot) and replace it with a female. Do this for both gauges. Next remove the plug from the light socket on both gauges and replace each wire (two per socket) with a female spade connector. Lastly you need to replace the main ground. Since you have a ring terminal on the OEM connection you’ll have to replace it with the larger 10-12 AWG female spade connector.
Now that you have the proper connectors you must reinsert them into the new gauges. With the gauge loosely in the cluster (with screw-loc) attached the wires to the following positions. The solid green wire (PVC boot) is positive terminal and the black on green (Rubber boot) in the “negative” terminal (fuel pic 1 & 2). The same goes for the water gauge (water pic 1 & 2). The main ground is the terminal on the bottom. The light merely snaps into the back of the gauge.
Position the gauge and tighten the screw-loc to secure the gauge in place and you’re done with these two gauges.
: The water sensor must be replaced in order for the VDO gauge to read the temperature correctly. The OEM doesn’t support the OHM range required so you’ll have to pop the hood and swap it out for a new one (water sensor pic 1). The sensor is located at the engine block terminus of the upper coolant hose. Follow the upper hose down to the block and you’ll see the sensor to the immediate right (facing the vehicle) of the passenger side rocker cover (water sensor pic 2 & 3). Prepare to remove the sensor by placing a basin at the bottom of the sump along with some towels to prevent antifreeze from making a mess. You’ll also want to insert a dry rag under the sensor so that you may plug the hole to prevent too much antifreeze from escaping you coolant system.
Remove connection from the sensor. Now with a XX-mm wrench (I’ll have to check on the size) remove the sensor and quickly insert the rag into the outlet. Replace with the new sensor until snug (water sensor pic 4). The new sensor will require a 14-16 AWG ring connector. Remove the female connector and apply the new one. Unscrew the black nut on the new sensor and install the sensor wire. Now is a good time to apply any dielectric grease to the post. Screw the nut back on and you done. Clean up the antifreeze and top off your coolant system with the 50:50 mixture or other desired proportion.
: The tachometer requires more adjustments than the previous two. First remove all the wires from the OEM tach. There should be one grey on white & one green both with black PVC boots, two black (one is has ring terminal and the other a black PVC boot) and the other two are from the light and should be red and white on red both connected to a black PVC boot (tach pic 1). Remove the black PVC boot from the red & white on red wires & the black wire. Also remove the ring terminal from the other black wire. Replace both the red and red on white wires along with the 14-16 AWG female connectors. Combine both black wires with the 10-12 AWG female connectors. Only the green and grey on white wires should remained untouched (tach pic 2).
With the gauge loosely in the cluster (with screw-loc) attached the wires to the following positions. The ground wires (dual black) should plug into the negative terminal (pic 2). The green wire with black PVC boot should go into the positive terminal (pic 2). The grey on white wire with black PVC boot should insert into the terminal marked “2” (pic 2). There shouldn’t be a terminal at position 1. Plug both of the red and red on white wires into the new light socket and insert the socket into place and you’re done (tach pic 3).
Now you’ll not in my pictures there is no screw-loc to keep the gauge in place. I ultimately swapped in a screw-loc, but originally went with the OEM fasteners as seen. Either is fine. The last thing you need to do is tell the tach what engine you’re monitoring. On the back you’ll have to select the keys according to the directions that are provided with the gauge (pic 3). I think (but am not sure) it goes up, down, up. I’ll have to double check.
With everything installed simple plug the three harnesses back into their positions and attach the gauge cluster. Turn on the engine to make sure everything is operational. If you’re tach isn’t working then it’s probably because you didn’t configure the three switches in the correct orientation. Other issues might arise from a poor ground connection or you’ve mistakenly swapped a terminal. If you still can’t troubleshoot the issues just email me at firstname.lastname@example.org
and we’ll try to figure out the issue.
More pictures. Just run your mouse over it to see which one it is. They're all labeled according to the notes above.
And some more.
and the last one.