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  #21  
Old February 8th, 2006, 03:14 PM
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No problem. Here’s how I did my gauge swap. First a couple of notes; I wanted to ensure a good connection without soldering so all the connectors are crimp only with adhesive lined heat-shrink. The latter is something I regret doing because the chance of moisture build-up on the terminals is slim, thus the typical Nylon or PVC barreled connectors should suffice. Plus, if I wanted to be that anal about it I could have just used dielectric grease to prevent water ingress. Also, I did this about two years ago some my memory of the install isn’t precise so be aware that I may have neglected some steps.

Some of the tools and supplies you’ll need are listed below:
• Number 2 Pozidrive (I recommend the ACR version from Snap-On)
• needle nose pliers
• wire stripping/crimping tool and/or diagonal cutters
• 0.250” 10-12 AWG female spade connectors; typically blue (for doubling grounds)
• 0.250” 14-16 AWG female spade connectors; typically blue (for all other connections)
• 0.025” 12-14 AWG adhesive lined heat shrink (only if connectors aren’t insulated; optional)
• Butane Torch (only if connectors aren’t insulated; optional)
• Metric open ended wrench (I’ll have to check the size)
• 50:50 water/antifreeze solution
• Shop towels and a basin to catch & clean up antifreeze

Ok, the first thing you want to do is remove the gauge cluster. With the #2 Pozidrive remove the two screws from both sides of the fascia and the two on the bottom. Gently pull the cluster out and immediately reach behind the speedometer and remove the mechanical Speedo-cable. Its really in there so give it a good pull and don’t worry you won’t break it as long as you pull it directly away from you. If you pull to the side you risk snapping the drive flange.

Now that you have it out you’ll noticed that the cluster is tethered in three spots. Two directly plug into the idiot light cluster and the other is for the gauge cluster. Remove all three (harness plug pic 1). Now you should be able to remove the cluster. If not make a note of any remaining connections and label them with tape (main pic 1).

Speedometer : Removing the speedometer is easy. Just unscrew the threaded nuts and disconnect all wiring. The directions that come with the Speedo are self explanatory. Since there are a few different ways to install it you should follow the directions that illustrate the “Hall Sensor.” It’s pretty easy. Just remember to leave some slack from the sensor cable so you can remove the gauge cluster with ease in the future.

Speedometer Sensor : I didn’t do this and instead had a local Speedometer shop do it. But you will have to affix 0.250” 14-16 AWG male connectors to the wires from the Speedo sensor.

Fuel and & Water Gauge : The fuel and water gauge are the easiest to swap out since their electrical configurations are the same (pic 1). First thing you need to do is find the green wires attached to both gauges. There should be two per gauge; one with a clear PVC boot and the other with a clear rubber boot. The connector with the rubber boot is male and must be swapped out for a female connector (water & fuel pic 1). Remove the male spade from the black on green wire (rubber boot) and replace it with a female. Do this for both gauges. Next remove the plug from the light socket on both gauges and replace each wire (two per socket) with a female spade connector. Lastly you need to replace the main ground. Since you have a ring terminal on the OEM connection you’ll have to replace it with the larger 10-12 AWG female spade connector.

Now that you have the proper connectors you must reinsert them into the new gauges. With the gauge loosely in the cluster (with screw-loc) attached the wires to the following positions. The solid green wire (PVC boot) is positive terminal and the black on green (Rubber boot) in the “negative” terminal (fuel pic 1 & 2). The same goes for the water gauge (water pic 1 & 2). The main ground is the terminal on the bottom. The light merely snaps into the back of the gauge.

Position the gauge and tighten the screw-loc to secure the gauge in place and you’re done with these two gauges.

Water Sensor : The water sensor must be replaced in order for the VDO gauge to read the temperature correctly. The OEM doesn’t support the OHM range required so you’ll have to pop the hood and swap it out for a new one (water sensor pic 1). The sensor is located at the engine block terminus of the upper coolant hose. Follow the upper hose down to the block and you’ll see the sensor to the immediate right (facing the vehicle) of the passenger side rocker cover (water sensor pic 2 & 3). Prepare to remove the sensor by placing a basin at the bottom of the sump along with some towels to prevent antifreeze from making a mess. You’ll also want to insert a dry rag under the sensor so that you may plug the hole to prevent too much antifreeze from escaping you coolant system.

Remove connection from the sensor. Now with a XX-mm wrench (I’ll have to check on the size) remove the sensor and quickly insert the rag into the outlet. Replace with the new sensor until snug (water sensor pic 4). The new sensor will require a 14-16 AWG ring connector. Remove the female connector and apply the new one. Unscrew the black nut on the new sensor and install the sensor wire. Now is a good time to apply any dielectric grease to the post. Screw the nut back on and you done. Clean up the antifreeze and top off your coolant system with the 50:50 mixture or other desired proportion.

Tachometer : The tachometer requires more adjustments than the previous two. First remove all the wires from the OEM tach. There should be one grey on white & one green both with black PVC boots, two black (one is has ring terminal and the other a black PVC boot) and the other two are from the light and should be red and white on red both connected to a black PVC boot (tach pic 1). Remove the black PVC boot from the red & white on red wires & the black wire. Also remove the ring terminal from the other black wire. Replace both the red and red on white wires along with the 14-16 AWG female connectors. Combine both black wires with the 10-12 AWG female connectors. Only the green and grey on white wires should remained untouched (tach pic 2).

With the gauge loosely in the cluster (with screw-loc) attached the wires to the following positions. The ground wires (dual black) should plug into the negative terminal (pic 2). The green wire with black PVC boot should go into the positive terminal (pic 2). The grey on white wire with black PVC boot should insert into the terminal marked “2” (pic 2). There shouldn’t be a terminal at position 1. Plug both of the red and red on white wires into the new light socket and insert the socket into place and you’re done (tach pic 3).

Now you’ll not in my pictures there is no screw-loc to keep the gauge in place. I ultimately swapped in a screw-loc, but originally went with the OEM fasteners as seen. Either is fine. The last thing you need to do is tell the tach what engine you’re monitoring. On the back you’ll have to select the keys according to the directions that are provided with the gauge (pic 3). I think (but am not sure) it goes up, down, up. I’ll have to double check.

With everything installed simple plug the three harnesses back into their positions and attach the gauge cluster. Turn on the engine to make sure everything is operational. If you’re tach isn’t working then it’s probably because you didn’t configure the three switches in the correct orientation. Other issues might arise from a poor ground connection or you’ve mistakenly swapped a terminal. If you still can’t troubleshoot the issues just email me at medaniel@msn.com and we’ll try to figure out the issue.

Follow-up Post:

More pictures. Just run your mouse over it to see which one it is. They're all labeled according to the notes above.

DJ

Follow-up Post:

And some more.

Follow-up Post:

and the last one.
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  #22  
Old February 8th, 2006, 08:15 PM
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I agree with Hans - the factory switch is for 'dim' and 'really dim'.

Right now I can read the left few gauges fine............but the lightbulb for the speedo has falling out and is laying behind the guage. When removing the guage cluster, there does not seem to be an obvious place to attach the lightbulb to the speedometer (as there is with the other gauge). Perhaps that has fallen out as well...........

This is something that I need to focus on at some point, because it would be nice to see the speed at night..........

Flagg
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  #23  
Old February 9th, 2006, 10:28 PM
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Brian OShea
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Hi Bert,

I have owned 3 Defenders...a 94 and 2 95's...both of them have had the same problem. I remember someone saying that you could change out the bulbs. However, given the Rover's fickle electrical system...not sure if that would work. I don't really want to change out the gauges. I would prefer to keep the vehicle stock and also have too many other little side projects that I would rather spend the money on. I can barely see my gauges...even on the higher setting.

Any other recommendations would be appreciated...

Thanks guys,
Brian
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  #24  
Old February 9th, 2006, 10:42 PM
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At the risk of beating a dead horse...

1. Connect 12V directly to the bulb lead and see if gets brighter. If so then there's s resistor somewhere in the circuit dimming these lights which you can bypass or remove.

2. My owner's manual lists the instrument bulbs at 2W. The overhead light at 10W. You're telling me that 1/5 the overhead light capacity isn't enough per gauge? Of course it is!

3. I see most of you complaining have 94/95 models. Again, my 97 ligts are just fine. Now the 110 is dim but doesn't bother me. That has no dimmer switch so looks like it's a similar setup to the 94/95's. I'll bet the bulbs are smaller.
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  #25  
Old February 11th, 2006, 10:39 PM
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I think the bulbs in my 95 D90 would be fine - IF I could figure out how to get the speedo blub back behind the speedometer. I must have lost a clip or something that keeps it held in place.

The blub laying on the bottom of the tray is not an ideal set up. The guages on the left seem to have some sort of clip to hold the blubs up - and I can read those guages at night fine..........

Flagg
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  #26  
Old February 11th, 2006, 10:54 PM
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Here I was thinking I was the only one with that problem on the lower speedometer bulb and having no idea how to re-attach it. The '97 Defenders do have a totally different speedometer, which is probably why they don't have the same problems as the 94-95 trucks.

I think I'm just going to finally re-do the entire dashboard sometime this summer, I've wanted to replace the whole thing with more useful lights and gauges for a while anyways.... maybe some nicely stained walnut or something and get rid of most of those un-used idiot lights. Add in an oil pressure gauge. left and right turn signal lights. All the good stuff.

-Hans
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  #27  
Old December 12th, 2006, 10:54 AM
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Question VDO oil pressure gage install

I have searched this site on oil pressure gage installs and I still have a few questions. What I want to do is replace the oil pressure idiot sensor located on the oil pump housing with an electronic pressure sender with dual contact, one for the idiot light and one for the gage. I would like to use a VDO gage described on this site: http://www.bus-boys.com/bbvdo.htm



Any experience/advice with this?

Cheers...
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  #28  
Old December 12th, 2006, 01:56 PM
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Yes, get the VDO sender and swap them out. If you want a warning light you'll have to run an extra wire I think.

I dont know the size threads for your sender - a search on this site will probably turn up the part numbers.
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  #29  
Old December 12th, 2006, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
Yes, get the VDO sender and swap them out. If you want a warning light you'll have to run an extra wire I think.

I dont know the size threads for your sender - a search on this site will probably turn up the part numbers.
So have you installed a VDO oil pressure gage on your truck? Did you install it the way I plan to? If so, does the sender fit where the idiot sensor was located? Where did you mount the gage? I plan on buying the plastic dash part from RN (it's used to re-locate the radio from the cubby box to the dash) and mounting it in the middle of the dash.

Cheers...
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  #30  
Old December 12th, 2006, 02:52 PM
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Previous posts have informed me (and my own measurements have confirmed it) the thread size on the stock idiot-light is #5 O-ring. I finally picked up an adapter yesterday at the local hyrdaulic shop, and will be installing tomorrow. Most car places will NOT have that adapter, you need to go to a specialty place that deals with hydraulic hoses or something similar.

-Hans
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  #31  
Old December 12th, 2006, 09:14 PM
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I'm not giving up a part number because I did the install on my Tdi - I dont know if they are the same. I'm running 6 guages - EGT, oil pressure, and coolant temp next to the speedo. 2 fuel guages and the clock in the center dash where the NAS hazard swith, Rangie clock, and cig lighter used to be.

The sender threaded right into the block where the idiot light switch came from. I guess you will have to run another wire, but thats EZ.
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  #32  
Old December 12th, 2006, 09:17 PM
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Hey Jim, If you don't mind could you post the part # for the 300tdi oil pressure sender?
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  #33  
Old December 12th, 2006, 09:25 PM
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
I'm not giving up a part number because I did the install on my Tdi - I dont know if they are the same. I'm running 6 guages - EGT, oil pressure, and coolant temp next to the speedo. 2 fuel guages and the clock in the center dash where the NAS hazard swith, Rangie clock, and cig lighter used to be.

The sender threaded right into the block where the idiot light switch came from. I guess you will have to run another wire, but thats EZ.
Yup...that's what I want to do. I want to run a wire from the sender to the gage rather than plum a hose from the pump housing to the gage. I think that a mechanical gage has it's benifits, i.e. no electrical gremlins giving false readings, but the I would rather not add any additional connections that could leak.

Thanks for your input...

Cheers...
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  #34  
Old December 13th, 2006, 06:55 AM
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Hans,

Can you let me know where you picked up the adapter? I am in the process of doing the same. I also want to add a temp sender, and ideas how to do both at the same time?

Thanks,
Mark
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  #35  
Old December 13th, 2006, 08:44 AM
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I got all my stuff from egauges.com - I have a tendency to spell "gauges" wrong, so check it.
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  #36  
Old December 13th, 2006, 11:54 AM
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Mark, I got mine at Moreland hose in Oakdale. It's on the south-side of sunrise highway, in the same shopping center as the taxidermy place and the adult shop.

They were out of stock on the #5 to 1/8NPT that I needed, so I had to do it via two pieces. But they do carry #5 adapters in 1/8 and 1/4 npt.

-Hans
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  #37  
Old December 20th, 2006, 06:47 PM
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Question Are the oil pump housings the same on a D110 w/3.9 as with a D90 w/3.9?

Can anybody with a D110 respond and/or show some pics were the oil pressure sender is located on the thier 3.9 engine?

Are the oil pump housings the same on a D110 w/3.9 as with a D90 w/3.9? If so, I want to install the pressure sender in the same location.

Cheers...
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  #38  
Old December 23rd, 2006, 11:45 AM
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I just bought an autometer oil pressure gauge for my 97', Can someone do a write up on their install in a 4.0 or 3.9 and if you can take pics that would be even better
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  #39  
Old March 8th, 2007, 03:33 PM
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Thumbs up VDO Gauge Install

Here is my gauge installation write-up. It was a fairly easy job. One of my goals was to make the install look as “stock” as possible. I found that the VDO Black Cockpit Series gauges are very close “appearance wise” to the stock gauges and are "back lit" as well. The only difference I found was that the VDO Cockpit Series have red needles and the stock gauges have white needles. Also, a BIG THANK YOU goes to Mike H. for the radio insert!

Below is the parts list:



Parts:



VDO Oil Pressure Gauge

Source: egauges.com

PN:310 041

Range: 0 ~ 80 psi, 0~180ohm, 7psi warning

Price: $25.75



VDO Sender:

Source: egauges.com

PN: 360 009

Range: 10~180ohm, dual contact for sender and warning lamp

Price: $33.54



Adapter Fitting:

Source: Parker Hydraulics

PN: 5-1/8 F50G-S

Price: $11



VDO Voltmeter Gauge

Source: egauges.com

PN: 332 041

Price: $25.74



Panel:

Source: egauges.com

PN:PAN001

Price: $16



Radio Housing:

Source: Rovers North

PN: RNH512

Price: $38



License Plate Inserts

Source: Pep Boys

Cost: $3



Green Dash Bulbs

Source: Pep Boys

Cost: $3





1) Removed pressure switch.

2) Assembled adapter fitting to sender. Do not use tape. Be sure that it’s tight.

3) With the o-ring (on the adapter) lubed with oil, fasten sender to oil pump housing.

4) Run a 16gage wire from the sender to inside the cabin. I used the wiring loom that runs along the passenger side of the engine that passes through the bulkhead near the fuse panel. Refer to pic.

5) Fasten warning light wire and gauge wire to the sender.

6) Fasten ground wires to the fuse panel plate (16gage).

7) Run the ground wires and the sender wire up through the dash. (I used a snake…works well)

8) For power, tap into cigarette lighter, for the gauges and the lights. The dash light wiring (18gage) was “Daisy Chained”. Just follow the wiring diagram that comes with the gauges.

9) Press the licenses plate inserts into the vent slots (I did this to avoid drilling into the dash)

10) Drill the holes in the radio insert for mounting

11) Drill a hole into the cluster cover for the wires. (I hated to do this, but I did not know how to route the wires otherwise.)

12) Replace the clear bulb in the gauges with a green bulb to match stock gauges

13) Assemble gauges and wiring

14) Enjoy your favorite alcoholic beverage while admiring your hard work!



Added notes:

The radio housing was trimmed because of interference with the cluster cover. I installed only two gauges and I pre-wired for the third gauge. All wire connections are made with shielded connectors and applied with dielectric grease.



Cheers…
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  #40  
Old March 8th, 2007, 06:03 PM
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Looks great! Why dont you get a round VDO clock for the third guage and remove the stock clock? You could then move the hazard switch to the middle and add a second 12v socket. I got marine grade 12v sockets made by Sutars from http://www.ssterlingco.com/ - they were about 8 bucks each. The dont have a cig lighter, instead just a rubber cover that says "12V." Of course you would have to want to do that...
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