Tub Floor Replacement - Page 4 - Defender Source
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  #61  
Old October 2nd, 2015, 09:06 PM
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William Skidmore
SIII 109 SW
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On the 109 station wagons they had an access door for the rear fuel tank.
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  #62  
Old October 6th, 2015, 08:52 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Originally Posted by Wilboro View Post
Now it's all galvied up so I'll have to start the assembly process, ok well not quite yet, I need to make the access port in the floor first.
This is awesome. So what's the plan for the access port?

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On the 109 station wagons they had an access door for the rear fuel tank.
The 109 tub I made my trailer out of has 2 access doors in it iirc. But it came from a 2 door. My 2 door does not have any hatches.
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  #63  
Old October 7th, 2015, 04:46 PM
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William Ficner
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Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
This is awesome. So what's the plan for the access port?


The 109 tub I made my trailer out of has 2 access doors in it iirc. But it came from a 2 door. My 2 door does not have any hatches.
The plan is to cut a 7" square hole in the floor, then attach another plate slightly larger than the opening on the bottom side of the floor to support the removable section.

The lower support plate will look like this.
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  #64  
Old October 24th, 2015, 02:48 PM
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Sandblasted supports / tailpiece, 100-grit orbital sanded the floor.

Solvent washed the pieces and hung for alodining.
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  #65  
Old October 24th, 2015, 02:49 PM
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Apply alodine, dry-in-place. Notice hexavalent chromium (chromic acid) reacting with aluminum to form the signature gold iridite color. Don't touch this stuff. Besides being highly carcinogenic (think Erin Brockovich), the etchant, while below the federally mandated requirement for listing in the MSDS, can cause hypocalcemia. Extremely bad juju.
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  #66  
Old October 24th, 2015, 02:50 PM
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mix SPI epoxy primer, let induce for 30 min, apply via HVLP gun set at 35 psi, widest pattern.
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  #67  
Old October 24th, 2015, 02:51 PM
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job done, let cure for 24 hours.

I'm incredibly excited to finally be done with this. I've been at this since August, just waiting for the right pieces to fall into place. Looking forward to a tub that lasts another 50 years.
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  #68  
Old October 24th, 2015, 05:09 PM
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Good to see you taking advantage of TechShop
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  #69  
Old October 24th, 2015, 05:28 PM
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Switched to oven cure: 2 hours at 200 degree fahrenheit.

------ Follow up post added October 24th, 2015 05:29 PM ------

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Good to see you taking advantage of TechShop
Thanks to you for turning me onto it
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  #70  
Old October 24th, 2015, 10:14 PM
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and....back in the truck. It's pretty easy to see the big difference between primer grey and the Zermatt Silver Metallic.
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  #71  
Old October 24th, 2015, 10:35 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Wow! Very nice work.
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  #72  
Old October 25th, 2015, 08:19 PM
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Realizing I don't get this project at all, explain to me why after all that work you didn't paint it silver?

Now put a mat on it like you just should have done in the first place. Oh wait, it's in my garage

Anyway, nice job.
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  #73  
Old October 25th, 2015, 08:30 PM
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Looking good!
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  #74  
Old October 25th, 2015, 10:14 PM
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Hahah...thanks guys. Sorry Charles, I'll be back to get my crap out of your garage asap

My biggest reasons for not painting the tub floor are that it's going to be underneath a mat (and eventually insulation and carpet), and also that my paint color actually requires a clearcoat - so I would have to basecoat then clearcoat the tub floor. I did that for the original tub floor which was pretty beat. But in retrospect it really was just a waste, when all I really needed to do was protect it from corrosion.

I can't say those are good reasons, but the grey is close enough to the silver under normal light, and honestly I can't say I have particularly good reasons for doing half the stuff I've done on this thing
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  #75  
Old October 26th, 2015, 07:16 PM
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Blah blah blah. You know I'm just giving you shit. I'm the last person who can try claim what I'm doing makes any sense!
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  #76  
Old October 26th, 2015, 07:23 PM
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I'm the last person who can try claim what I'm doing makes any sense!
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  #77  
Old October 26th, 2015, 09:18 PM
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Screws in. Armour coat 10-32 hex head screws, passivated aluminum washers on both sides, zinc plated nylock flange nuts on the bottom side.

Need to fasten the stainless steel thresh
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  #78  
Old October 26th, 2015, 09:56 PM
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William Ficner
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Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Screws in. Armour coat 10-32 hex head screws, passivated aluminum washers on both sides, zinc plated nylock flange nuts on the bottom side.

Need to fasten the stainless steel thresh

Close up of the fasteners?
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  #79  
Old October 27th, 2015, 02:29 PM
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Unfortunately, these ultra/armor-coated fasteners are not available in button-heads, but corrosion resistance was the primary motivation here. These should outlast standard zinc-plated fasteners by at least one order of magnitude.
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  #80  
Old October 28th, 2015, 05:28 PM
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Unfortunately, these ultra/armor-coated fasteners are not available in button-heads, but corrosion resistance was the primary motivation here. These should outlast standard zinc-plated fasteners by at least one order of magnitude.
That's gonna drive you crazy if you try to slide in anything that's square and flat. Like a tool box/trunk, or any box for that matter

That being said stellar job man. Looks great
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