Tub Floor Replacement - Page 3 - Defender Source
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  #41  
Old September 18th, 2015, 11:43 AM
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I've read POR-15 doesn't stick to well and that stuff needs to be perfect or it doesn't work. Any other ideas?

----

Mathews offers an adhesive based primer for aluminum. Sticks like glue and the paint sticks to it. The Mathews stuff is really pretty kick ass. Expensive as hell but it wears very well. POR I think is only for steel.
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Present:
1960 SII 109"- "Red Square"
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1987 RRC- "Chewy 2"
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1959 SII 88"- "The Little Green Beastie" last seen in NY
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  #42  
Old September 18th, 2015, 12:55 PM
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You need to use an etching primer or everything will come off the aluminum.
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  #43  
Old September 18th, 2015, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
I've read POR-15 doesn't stick to well and that stuff needs to be perfect or it doesn't work. Any other ideas?

----

Mathews offers an adhesive based primer for aluminum. Sticks like glue and the paint sticks to it. The Mathews stuff is really pretty kick ass. Expensive as hell but it wears very well. POR I think is only for steel.
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Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
You need to use an etching primer or everything will come off the aluminum.
Thanks for the Matthews tip - need to research it some more.

I've been googling aluminum primer this morning. Zinc Chromate comes up a lot. I also found this: Professional Aluminum Primer Spray Product Page

And it looks like I could get it at the local Home Depot. Going to look into that a little more as it would be the easiest for me to get and apply.
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  #44  
Old September 18th, 2015, 01:30 PM
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I have Alodine and two-part epoxy primer ready, but I'm insane. I do not recommend anyone uses Alodine due to the free fluoride in solution. Hypocalcemia is no joke. Who wants to die for their truck?

I'm sure SPU two-part epoxy primer by itself without chromate conversion or polyurea coatings like Line-X would work just fine as well. The rest of my truck is painted with SPU two-part epoxy (body) or SPU 2K urethane (roof).

Zinc chromate is interesting but I think it's important to note that zinc chromate can be toxic during sanding, due to the chromate in the dust. And by toxic, I mean carcinogenic / mutagenic. But I guess it all boils down to the application.
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  #45  
Old September 18th, 2015, 03:49 PM
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Just about to suit up to prep my tub sides before putting my new floor in as well.
This stuff is scary but will a proper respirator, suit, gloves, face shield it should be fine. Did some last year with no problem. Self etching primer will gone on once the Alodine is dry.
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  #46  
Old September 18th, 2015, 04:03 PM
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Holy crap wilboro...I am using 1132. 1201 is some hardcore stuff. Alumiprep is also frightening.

Be safe.
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  #47  
Old September 18th, 2015, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Holy crap wilboro...I am using 1132. 1201 is some hardcore stuff. Alumiprep is also frightening.

Be safe.

Yes nasty stuff I've had the safety rundown from a friend who is an aircraft mechanic. I was super careful and cautious the first time I used it and will be again this time.
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  #48  
Old September 28th, 2015, 06:18 PM
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Welded the cross piece to the flooring and then bolted where the hats, floor and rear cross intersect. Then ground down the extra threads and melted the bolt to the nut to create a rivet.

I need to do some more prep work tomorrow but hoping to primer and then paint with Rustoleum professional spray stuff I got at Lowes. Probably not the best method but it should be on the safer side and much better than LR's overspray method of covering aluminum on the bottom side. I will be cutting the tub at some point for lock-n-folds so it should be less toxic to breath in where I have to sand.

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  #49  
Old September 28th, 2015, 06:19 PM
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Rear cross piece and welded M5 nut/bolt

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  #50  
Old September 28th, 2015, 06:21 PM
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Forgot to mention that I cut the tops of the vertical supports at an angel and drilled a hole in the bottom to help ease clean up. Each one was filled and packed with organic material.
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  #51  
Old September 30th, 2015, 10:26 AM
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I don't want to hog this thread but wanted to give pic updates with what I am doing in he case it might help someone else down the line and/or spark some ideas on the best methods to do this process.

So I go the first cross support on. I painted half the bottom of the tub using the Rustoleum Aluminum Primer and then top coat semi-gloss black.

Those little rubber things I am holding down with SS Allen pan head M5 bolts (M6 on the old cross support as the hole was bigger).

Rivets from the cross support to hats are aluminum closed with steel mandrel. These things are burly!

Using a steel M5 Allen pan with flange to go from tub floor to cross support. Then SS washer and nylon bolt.

Pics:

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  #52  
Old September 30th, 2015, 10:27 AM
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Bolts and rivets I am using:


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  #53  
Old September 30th, 2015, 10:31 AM
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Feel free to hijack this thread! Your tub is looking fantastic, don

I am waiting on two quarts of SPU epoxy primer to spray the tub. Once that comes in, I'll update with more photos
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  #54  
Old September 30th, 2015, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Feel free to hijack this thread! Your tub is looking fantastic, don I am waiting on two quarts of SPU epoxy primer to spray the tub. Once that comes in, I'll update with more photos
You are doing it the correct way with the SPU epoxy primer - it's going to look good! Not to mention survive for a very long time!

I feel the Rustoleum stuff will work ok. I have been using the freshly painted bottom as a work bench for bolts and tools and its been holding up pretty good. But I will have to see how it looks with some age on it.

Thanks for the props - but honestly it's not totally perfect. After welding the floor has some waves and the patch jobs I did on the sides can be seen (but don't look horrendous with the black paint covering them). It will be very solid and once I Line-X the interior part of the tub it should look pretty good.

And thanks for the clearance to hi-Jack. I will keep updates coming as a move to the front half.
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  #55  
Old October 2nd, 2015, 03:51 PM
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Since everyone is showing off their fancy tubs I figured I share where I'm at with mine.

I wanted to be able to access the sending unit in my new plastic tank so that required a bit of cutting and welding of cross members to make an appropriate opening.
Now it's all galvied up so I'll have to start the assembly process, ok well not quite yet, I need to make the access port in the floor first.

I'm toying with the idea of using alumiweld for the aluminum ribs even though my new one piece floor is so thick I probably don't really even need them.
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  #56  
Old October 2nd, 2015, 03:57 PM
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Looks good will. Love that galvy.

I have actually had excellent results with Alumiweld. At first I thought it was a bit of a scam, but $15 later, I haven't been disappointed yet by the stuff.
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  #57  
Old October 2nd, 2015, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ash View Post
I have a NAS 90 coming in at the end of September for a full tub rebuild using the same components and construction method as our 110 tubs, so once that's complete and I have the CAD work all done I'll be able to offer you guys a much higher quality floor that is a (mostly) drop-in replacement to save the headache.

-Ash
That's my truck. Feel free to post as many pictures as you want if you think they will contribute to the thread. Can't wait to see what you come up with.
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  #58  
Old October 2nd, 2015, 04:09 PM
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Very cool with the cross pieces boxed out like that!

The fuel pump access is another one for the "why didn't LR do this?" pile.

Keep the pics coming Wilboro!
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  #59  
Old October 2nd, 2015, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Looks good will. Love that galvy.

I have actually had excellent results with Alumiweld. At first I thought it was a bit of a scam, but $15 later, I haven't been disappointed yet by the stuff.
Thanks guys!

Sonoronos do you think the Alumiweld (durafix) would work well to join those ribs to the floor? Would you have any estimate how much of the stuff I would need for the job? 1/2lb or 1lb?

Don you're right on the access port, don't know why they didn't do it.
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  #60  
Old October 2nd, 2015, 04:54 PM
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I'm not sure about how much Alumiweld you will need.

Based on my experiences, I use about 1" of Alumiweld rod per 3/8"-1/2" of joint.

1 pount of alumiweld is 20 18" rods. Therefore, I assume you would get about 6.75" to 9" of joints per rod. I would err on the short side.

You can probably do the math
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