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  #21  
Old August 27th, 2015, 10:45 PM
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I had my floor laser cut with holes along the top hat runs, and then countersunk and used a sealed (I think) flush pop rivet. Between a copious number of rivets and the thicker .125 gauge floor I think it should be plenty stout. I didn't know about clecos until recently and it blew my mind, and would have made the job so much easier. Great to see how clean this is coming out.
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  #22  
Old August 28th, 2015, 11:56 AM
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Here is some one of the hats tig welded. This side was better than the other. I have bought more clamps and a couple sticks of metal to try and keep things straight.

I thought the patch work on the other part of the tub was a pain. Lots of work just to get a couple inch pass done.

If I was to do it over I would investigate the glue/adhesive route. It is procedure that Rover probably didn't have when they did these tubs.

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  #23  
Old August 29th, 2015, 08:33 PM
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some cad images showing how long the fasteners have to be for different parts of the tub.
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  #24  
Old August 29th, 2015, 10:10 PM
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Drilling the holes for the steel tub supports.

Just remember to mark the supports as the holes will depend on individual supports being in the correct places.
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  #25  
Old September 2nd, 2015, 09:57 PM
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Sonoronos - the work you did looks so good!

I've been picking away at the TIG process. It has been the most frustrating thing on my build. Even rigged by a ton of clamps and various straight pieces of iron the sheet would move and is wavy. Ashes suggestion of stitch welding helped a bunch.

At this point I am going to push thru and just deal with a wavy floor. It will get Line-X'd at some point and the interior sides will be notched for Lock-N-Folds. The exterior sides are a little wavy too.

While at Lowes today I saw a piece of 3/4" square. 16 guage. I might buy a piece and give it some passes on a scrap piece of sheet to see how it welds. Part of the problem with welding the hats I feel is if they are not clamped down with a ton of force they move especially when getting hit with 90A. I am guessing the square stock might hold its shape way better and the fillet weld might be easier to do than the lap weld.
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  #26  
Old September 2nd, 2015, 10:32 PM
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So I measured the hats - 25/32" wide (20mm) and 23/32" tall (18mm). The 3/4" square bar would be 1/32" taller and narrower. So less than a mm.
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  #27  
Old September 3rd, 2015, 12:04 PM
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Thanks don! I really think you're doing a great job on your tub as well.

I agree on the difficulty on clamping. I don't know about your top hats, but my replacements from YRM are from a very soft alloy, presumably for bending purposes (perhaps also corrosion resistance?)

The square tube option sounds like a very good idea. Not just stronger for clamping purposes, but stronger in general, especially since it's drawn and therefore can be had in stiffer alloys.

The only thing I can think of is that the ends will have to be modified slightly to accommodate the thresh.
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  #28  
Old September 3rd, 2015, 01:25 PM
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Yes - agree the YRM metal is very soft. The few pieces of small scrap were easy to bend by hand.

I am trying to weld with the torch pointing parallel to the hat and just heating the thick flooring material.

It will be easy to cut a notch into the end of the 3/4" square stock - I was thinking just taking off one side 1" or 2 deep would work well enough.
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  #29  
Old September 3rd, 2015, 01:38 PM
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I rebuilt the rear floor on my 88 years ago using new cross pieces and 3/4" square tube for the longitudinal ribs. Worked fine. Replacement floor was a sign that said "bump ahead"

That was before the days of YRM and availability of the hat channel


Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
So I measured the hats - 25/32" wide (20mm) and 23/32" tall (18mm). The 3/4" square bar would be 1/32" taller and narrower. So less than a mm.
------ Follow up post added September 3rd, 2015 01:41 PM ------

that application does not require or benefit from a full weld.

spot or tack welds would be more than sufficient.

Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Here is some one of the hats tig welded. This side was better than the other. I have bought more clamps and a couple sticks of metal to try and keep things straight.

I thought the patch work on the other part of the tub was a pain. Lots of work just to get a couple inch pass done.

If I was to do it over I would investigate the glue/adhesive route. It is procedure that Rover probably didn't have when they did these tubs.

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Present:
1960 SII 109"- "Red Square"
1984 90 Tdi- "Yamelo"
1988 RRC- "Chewbacca"
1987 RRC- "Chewy 2"
2008 RRS SC- "The Supersofa"

Past:
1959 SII 88"- "The Little Green Beastie" last seen in NY
1972 SIII 88"- "GreenHELL" now in NC
1988 90 "Eric the Half a Bee" half a truck, sold for parts
1991 RRC- never got a name- long since recycled
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  #30  
Old September 3rd, 2015, 02:26 PM
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I'm guessing Don has the stiffest tub on the east coast now
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  #31  
Old September 3rd, 2015, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
I'm guessing Don has the stiffest tub on the east coast now
Haha - the other floor was pretty beat up and all but it is crazy how much more solid the new setup feels and I still have a bunch more to do.

Ren Ching - what did you do to fasten the 3/4" square stock to the floor? I know it is way over kill (and believe me I wish I didn't go down this path now) but the full beads are pulling the hats back to the floor sheet and getting things lined back up.
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  #32  
Old September 17th, 2015, 02:17 PM
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I have been putting the new floor into the old tub. I had to rebuild the corners so there was something solid for the tub floor to attach too. Tedious work but overall mostly happy with how it turned out.

LR's design has a sandwich where the sides, side supports, floor and the metal cross brackets all come together. On the one hand I think this design sucks as it is a collection center for dirt and water especially when the metal piece starts decaying. But on the other hand my 30 year old LR still was still together and LR could train monkeys to spot weld and rivet the pieces together. Also - seeing Scouts, Broncos and Jeeps in the 80's that weren't all that old and rusty to hell shows that maybe the LR method wasn't all that bad.
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  #33  
Old September 17th, 2015, 02:22 PM
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At the front I couldn't get a pop rivet gun into the tight space. Also getting the correct pressure to join the pieces tightly was impossible. I bought some steel M5 button head bolts and used them instead. I could get things much tighter. I am thinking of using them and then burning them with the welder on the back side to make it so they won't be able to loosen.

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  #34  
Old September 17th, 2015, 02:22 PM
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Backside pic

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  #35  
Old September 17th, 2015, 02:33 PM
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Looks good, Don!

Good idea on the fasteners. I'm also planning on using 10-32 ultra coat fasteners with zinc plated nylocks and aluminum washers. I gave up on rivets for the floor plate itself.
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  #36  
Old September 17th, 2015, 02:54 PM
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You could drill some holes in the top hats and "spot" weld with the TIG. You don't really need much to join them. It is just to take a light shear load and prevent the floor from rattling.

Adhesives would probably be okay, but you might end up with a lot of preparation work to ensure it stays bonded to the aluminum.
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  #37  
Old September 17th, 2015, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Looks good, Don! Good idea on the fasteners. I'm also planning on using 10-32 ultra coat fasteners with zinc plated nylocks and aluminum washers. I gave up on rivets for the floor plate itself.
Thanks! I would not be able to put this floor on if it wasn't for using the bolts. And they seem much stronger than the closed head rivets I got. The only reason I can think of for using rivets is on a production line with a machine you could rivet a floor in within a few minutes. I feel like you line things up better using the bolts.

Btw great idea with the aluminum washers - I used steel fender washers where there was material and they seemed good but aluminum would be the better move.

Also 10-32 and M5 are very close in size and almost interchangeable.

------ Follow up post added September 17th, 2015 09:27 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
You could drill some holes in the top hats and "spot" weld with the TIG. You don't really need much to join them. It is just to take a light shear load and prevent the floor from rattling. Adhesives would probably be okay, but you might end up with a lot of preparation work to ensure it stays bonded to the aluminum.
I haven't been able to spot weld aluminum very well at all with the TIG. I've done that method with steel plenty and it works great.

I still need to try that square stock I bought - I really think stitch/fillet welding that would be the way to go instead of the hats.

------ Follow up post added September 17th, 2015 09:31 PM ------

One more question for the aluminum wizards:

I want to paint the underside and I would love to keep it easy as I am tired of working on this thing! I think black with the galvanized cross pieces would look great and if I paint before the cross pieces it will give some protection against aluminum corrosion.

I've read POR-15 doesn't stick to well and that stuff needs to be perfect or it doesn't work. Any other ideas?
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  #38  
Old September 17th, 2015, 10:30 PM
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Rattle can of multi purpose paint?
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  #39  
Old September 17th, 2015, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
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Rattle can of multi purpose paint?
Sounds good if it will stick
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  #40  
Old September 17th, 2015, 11:16 PM
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I would think it would work. Like any other painting, just make sure you prep the surface.
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