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  #1  
Old May 3rd, 2010, 02:04 PM
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Gardner Congdon
'84 RHD D90 300Tdi
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Top link?

Getting ready to start sorting out some small bits on my '84 D90. Tub cappings need replacing, so I'm trying to source some galvanised ones. I figured as long as I'm pulling the top up I'll just replace all the body seals while I'm at it. Probably fix the sagging headliner too. Then I started thinking I'll pull the whole tub off so I can POR15 the frame. It looks to have been waxoyled, though in some places better than others. On to my question... the top link and ball joint looks pretty nasty- anyone know if there's an equivalent here in the US? Like off an RRC maybe?
Thanks!
-Gardner
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  #2  
Old May 3rd, 2010, 02:29 PM
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Skinny Pete
'84 90 "Yamelo"/'88 RRC "Chewbacca"
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don't bother with POR on the frame. Too much hassle to apply correctly and will not protect the inside. Just clean it up well and use rustoleum or similar. When the paint cures hit it with some waxoil.

A frame should clean up fine, doubt it needs replaced. This could turn into a frame over if you aren't careful.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gardner View Post
Getting ready to start sorting out some small bits on my '84 D90. Tub cappings need replacing, so I'm trying to source some galvanised ones. I figured as long as I'm pulling the top up I'll just replace all the body seals while I'm at it. Probably fix the sagging headliner too. Then I started thinking I'll pull the whole tub off so I can POR15 the frame. It looks to have been waxoyled, though in some places better than others. On to my question... the top link and ball joint looks pretty nasty- anyone know if there's an equivalent here in the US? Like off an RRC maybe?
Thanks!
-Gardner
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  #3  
Old May 3rd, 2010, 02:39 PM
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Gardner Congdon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
don't bother with POR on the frame. Too much hassle to apply correctly and will not protect the inside. Just clean it up well and use rustoleum or similar. When the paint cures hit it with some waxoil.

A frame should clean up fine, doubt it needs replaced. This could turn into a frame over if you aren't careful.
Thanks for the advice- my tendancy is to go a little overboard with these things...
Looks like I may be in your neck of the woods this weekend for a short business trip.
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  #4  
Old May 3rd, 2010, 06:25 PM
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It is really not hard to pull the tub off a non-NAS D90 and it will give you the opportunity to replace all the rusty bolts with stainless (if you so desire) or new plated bolts slathered in antisieze. The only "hard" removal and refit IMHO is the bulkhead, but the stuff in the back is no big deal. In my experience you will find that the top of the frame has a lot of surface rust.
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  #5  
Old May 3rd, 2010, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
This could turn into a frame over if you aren't careful.
When I purchased my 84 I planned from the start to replace the frame with a galvy unit assuming it was toast due to the age and where it came from, when it arrived it was in better condition than I expected so I decided that it only needed a rear outrigger and a rear cross member a few years down the road.

Not sure how it happened but I have a galvanized chassis sitting in my garage now and getting ready to tear the 90 apart...


If your rear ball joint is bad getting a RRC or Disco I rear A-frame might be a good way to go. I got one for free and rebuilt it off the truck.
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  #6  
Old May 3rd, 2010, 07:22 PM
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If you have Waxoyl on the frame, then you have to continue with it. Once that stuff is on there, short of a chemical dip to clean it out, nothing else will stick.
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  #7  
Old May 4th, 2010, 01:00 PM
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Gardner Congdon
'84 RHD D90 300Tdi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
If you have Waxoyl on the frame, then you have to continue with it. Once that stuff is on there, short of a chemical dip to clean it out, nothing else will stick.
Yeah, it looked like that to me...

Thinking now about removing the tub cappings, stripping them and having them galvanised- can't seem to find a source for ones already done.
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  #8  
Old May 4th, 2010, 10:54 PM
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If the tub is original, it is galvy under the paint on a 1984. Again, they are not hard to remove, just drill out the rivets. Takes me about an hour to drill out all the rivets on a set of cappings and about 90min to reinstall -- or three months if you include sending them out for blasting and galvy.
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  #9  
Old May 5th, 2010, 09:01 AM
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[QUOTE=Gardner; Tub cappings need replacing, so I'm trying to source some galvanised ones.[/QUOTE]

http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFE..._LA939975.html
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  #10  
Old May 5th, 2010, 09:51 AM
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Cappings were easy to do, it only took a half day to remove my hardtop and the cappings. blasting and galvy took a few weeks

Here is what mine looked like when I purchased it and right after having the capping galvanized
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  #11  
Old May 5th, 2010, 01:14 PM
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Gardner Congdon
'84 RHD D90 300Tdi
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Looks great Dave! Thanks for the pics. I was wondering if I should galv then paint or just leave it galv. I like the looks of yours.

------ Follow up post added May 5th, 2010 10:17 AM ------

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Thanks Doug.
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  #12  
Old May 9th, 2010, 07:59 AM
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More pics Dave Is that truck done yet?
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  #13  
Old May 9th, 2010, 09:16 AM
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Dave Lucas
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I have not even started on it yet

I have the rolling chassis about 80% done but everything was delayed by having to move a few weeks ago. Now that I am in my new place I plan to start the build and will start a thread here in the next few weeks.
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