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  #1  
Old August 7th, 2014, 06:14 PM
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Solange es tropft, ist noch was drin!

I was asked to give a hand on a clutch swap and changing some seals.

Well, the 110 station made of year 1998 is still on the pit.

Changing the O-ring belonging to the transmission gear box and the seals to the drive shafts was pretty easy.

But after the screwed in crossmember came out the wall was thin as a paper. Sometimes thinner.





Hope you guys will have a look at this just in time.













And I designed a new part to the Land Rover.



Do you have any idea what it's worth for?
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  #2  
Old August 7th, 2014, 06:46 PM
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Gut gemacht!
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Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"

All my troubles are Rover
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  #3  
Old August 8th, 2014, 05:17 PM
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Thanks Bill!

Any idea about this small part?

Think about last time you removed the handbrake lever ...
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Old August 9th, 2014, 03:12 PM
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I made another one matching the RHD's today.
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  #5  
Old August 11th, 2014, 05:37 PM
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Here's the small item mounted to the inner side of the seatbox.



Remaining parts arrived today:

Seal to the ingoing shaft of the R380









New big end seal



New liquet seal for the oil pan







Remastered front cover of the R380





New disengagement bearing





New flywheel



Centered with a new clutch



R380 at it's old place





The old clutch was realy rough in use when warm







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Old August 11th, 2014, 06:13 PM
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shayne young
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That's using some bandwidth...
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  #7  
Old August 11th, 2014, 06:26 PM
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Bumpiness was more than 0,15mm!
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  #8  
Old August 13th, 2014, 04:35 PM
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I posted some pictures double time instead of the announced never. Sorry about it.

Gearbox back in place:





Transferbox reinstalled:







An additional oilcooler assembled to a thermostat housing should also be installed.
Remember I'm talking about oil leaks.

The housing lives beside the R380 gearbox, next to the tunnel.







The pipework is a pita!







And we are not quite sure how to reach the front cooler yet?

But we'll try harder. Tomorrow!
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  #9  
Old August 14th, 2014, 07:18 PM
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Finally I got the short cut closed today!







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  #10  
Old August 15th, 2014, 05:52 PM
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This pipework (looking likely simular)is added to all new ROW 300tdi.
Just have a look.
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  #11  
Old August 18th, 2014, 01:18 PM
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The brandnew clutch is slipping!

When running the car with an additional flat distance between the slave cylinder and the bell house made me sure:

The slave cylinder isn't the right one!

It's from the Td5 model! And that's a little bit longer.

Bad part of the deal:

The slave cylinder of a Tdi is allways sold without the push rod!

Thursday the new original rod will be in Bremen. Yeahaaaaaa!!!
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  #12  
Old August 18th, 2014, 01:32 PM
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When you put the slave cylinder in, did you open the bleed nipple to relieve pressure? Usually when you "burp" the slave it lets the clutch diaphragm push the arm back, thereby engaging the clutch fully. The rod length shouldn't be all that different should it?
There are also spacing shims available that will move the slave forward.
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  #13  
Old August 18th, 2014, 01:52 PM
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We changed the short hose between the pipe's end and the slave.
There hasn't been any pressure in it for sure!

Td5 and Tdi rods are different in length.
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Old September 30th, 2014, 01:24 PM
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Forgot to mention:

Finally we changed the fluid to DOT 3 and everything went well!
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  #15  
Old September 30th, 2014, 02:00 PM
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More leaks but different issues

A friend asked me for a turbo charger swap and a replacement of the injection nozzles.

Well, his 110 is still sitting on the pit too.

The charger exchange went well but the 4th of the nozzles had a bad blow by!

It came out very hard to push and was sealed with something strange things I've never seen before.

So we removed the head. And here we go, a small cut for the manhood but a failure for the engine came out after some hours:







We didn't remove the charger another time. Just loosened the nuts.



The remaining parts are looking quite used but without a failure.



This gap was leaking to a little bit.



Time to create a remembering sheet for the parts inside the head!



I hope the new used head will arrive tomorrow.
Time will tell. ...
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  #16  
Old September 30th, 2014, 02:03 PM
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Did you adjust the pedal freeplay?

-Jeff
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  #17  
Old September 30th, 2014, 02:24 PM
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Yes, we did it several times. That was not the issue.
It was his wrong liquid he came along with and we'd filled in into the system.
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  #18  
Old October 1st, 2014, 04:06 PM
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While waiting for the head a new tool got ready for action.



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  #19  
Old October 2nd, 2014, 03:09 PM
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Slide on bolts were necessary to reassemble the carrier flange and the waterpump.





Replaced the bearing inside the tensioner too.
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  #20  
Old October 6th, 2014, 03:21 PM
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Cut the bracket holding the air filter into two parts. This will make more sense when trying to remove the vacuum pump below.

The cut is lokated about 1" parallel to the upper flange.
An additional flatsteel welded on to the lower part will fit these both together by scrwes.

Did it the same way on my 130 long time ago. But the cylinder head had been in position for this. Engine was cold.
It's still working yet. No leaks after removing and reassembling the the two headscrews.
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