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  #41  
Old November 11th, 2015, 04:03 PM
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Kurt Ohlendorf
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Reassembling the parts:

















The pit isn't deep enough to fit the bell housing too, so it comes in two parts to be fitted to each other behind the narrow section at the axle.















Very tricky to get the rear upper most nut tight!



Without removing the tunnel it's a special surgery to reinstall the shifters.









It saves some time and you don't take care of corroded screws!
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  #42  
Old November 19th, 2015, 05:06 PM
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LT 230 running without oil

Welding the other way ...

















... causes isues at other parts of the system!











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  #43  
Old November 19th, 2015, 09:36 PM
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William Skidmore
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Thatll buff out.
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  #44  
Old December 31st, 2015, 03:36 PM
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Trying harder:







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  #45  
Old December 31st, 2015, 05:14 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Very shiny. Kurt, what are you using to clean the housings?
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  #46  
Old December 31st, 2015, 05:46 PM
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Just regular and time to wipe it off!
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  #47  
Old February 3rd, 2016, 04:46 AM
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Excellent write up to date..thanks again for posting.





.
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200tdi Ex British Army 110 Hardtop 139142kms
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  #48  
Old June 27th, 2016, 04:18 PM
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20km without oil!

Brandnew Ashcroft bushed box with ATB Torsen Differential:







Gears inside are turning free and there's a leftover of oil inside!



But the axle doesn't move!



Ok, a little bit. But I guess it's the bush that's moving too!



Changed the direction of penetration.



And here we go:













The box' bore seames to be a little bit overdone?









The Torsen Diff looks like pretty good in shape!



I like left over gear box stuff!
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  #49  
Old July 2nd, 2016, 03:49 PM
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The brandnew ATB differential starts to rotate at a torque of about 11 to 15Nm. I hope this is ok.



The inner ring of the taper roller bearing is welded to the axle!
The steel bush was removed by the workshop press.







A spinning axle needs to be lubricated!
Even when the spinning stop surrendered!



Some more parts for the junk yard.

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  #50  
Old July 10th, 2016, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arlo View Post
The brandnew ATB differential starts to rotate at a torque of about 11 to 15Nm. I hope this is ok.
The Lord of Gears himself answered:
This is fine for the ATB torque, it wont tighten up until it loaded

So I started to reassemble the remaining parts by using a used housing.



















Ready to rumble:


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  #51  
Old July 12th, 2016, 05:48 PM
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320268km or a 20 years old tranny

Connected to an 110, located in Cuxhaven (this is in the North of Germany, facing to the North Sea), driven by a couple of expereances of life, this one got no new stamps of our very special detectives of security.

The issue startet for me, when the LT230 didn't come off the R380!
It was glued by corrosion between the stud and the upper most bore of the box!



It takes some and a 2mm thin but very long sheat of Aluminum to get these boxes apart!



How often do you change the oil of these boxes?

Do you like the dark glibber?



I hate it, because it will cause hours to get it clean!



All of the four dished washers are still on duty!



This causes no damage to the diff housing!





New to used dished washers:





I like to shim the incomming shaft instead of the colapsing bush.



So this one is needed.



Torqued by 88Nm:



Just got the preload!

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  #52  
Old July 15th, 2016, 04:46 PM
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Ready for some more miles!



But the R380 was a little bit leaking too.



As it is the Tdi version, the bolt connecting the Low-Neutral-High linkage, cannot removed while the R380 is in position!

This caused a sharp cut to the aluminum!







The o-ring securing the shifter rod inside the shifter housing sometimes failes. So the following compartments will be full filled by ATF and at the end of it the housing starts to leak.
It's an easy way to change it. But it will take some time.



The M8 screw is originally fixed by hard to get it loose glue. At a temperatur of about 150°C it becomes easy to get it off!
I use the blue Loctite stuff to get it save and sound again.



The rolled pin on the opposit side needs some force to get it driven out! The everlasting way had to be done by hand extracting!
Refitting will be ok by pliers; the big size for tubes will do.



The plug comes out by the rod. Just use a hammer with soft surface.
The bore is straight through! Use a tool with a stop mechanism when resetting.



Reinstalled with liquid sealant.



A new shaft seal in front of the box was needed! The rear was dry as dry can be!



Both of the two are looking at each other.



The vacuum pump has to be exchanged and a hose was leaking too.





This is easy when the boxes are out!

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  #53  
Old July 15th, 2016, 04:51 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Great stuff Arlo! I love the pics and detailed description/documentation. Keep them coming :D
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  #54  
Old July 15th, 2016, 05:13 PM
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Thanks Don!
I'll do my very best.
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  #55  
Old July 19th, 2016, 07:01 PM
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R380 and LT230 are back in place!











Somethime that never leaks had to be renewed too!









When turning the rear differential flange by hand whyle the shaft was off, there was something different:
It turns with a light rumbling the stairs down but after no twisting the shaft, it was like a fixed connection. A big amount of torque was necessary to move the shaft again!
The owner told me the seal had been removed the other day.

The difference between the Salisbury axle (Dana60) and the Rover axle is the collapsing bush vs. the shim!
And the spreading tool you'll need for this:





Everything inside looks quite well!
No issues all over the place.













So I got the seal out and reassembled the input shaft. Torqued by 90Nm the shaft was still not movable by hand!
But spinning when the first higher torque was overdone.
I decided to use a shim instead of the bush. Starting by 27.80mm reduced the play inside of the bearings to zero but got no relayable preload.



With a shim of 27.75mm everything was fine!





The reassambling was much way easyer than thought about.
Just do it with heavy wheights!





Don't forget the oil!!!



It wont leak either!
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  #56  
Old September 5th, 2016, 06:03 PM
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No leak but terrible noise in 5th gear

Looks like an normal oil change.



But the rear collar lists some unknowen prints:



By the way, it's a R380 that is to be openend!



Big surprise inside:



The impacts are still located inside the cast alloy.
Do you think they would ever return into native life to get into contact to real living items inside?



Extracted teeth out off the 5th gear:




Inner rings of the rear are loose! I was able to shift them by hand!



1st to 4th gear are looking in quite good conditions.
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  #57  
Old September 6th, 2016, 06:01 PM
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3 cylindric rollers are missing inside this bearing:



Both of the two are looking pretty ruinend.





This nut came off very easy. 280Nm of torque normally needs the special fastener.



Both of the inner rings of the taper rollers came off the shaft, when messing around with the shafts upside down.



Dog teeth's details:

5th and reversing gear



4th gear



3rd gear



2nd gear



1st gear



Looks pretty good in shape.
But I will order the main DIY kit and the replacement for this



from Ashcroft.
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  #58  
Old September 6th, 2016, 07:03 PM
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Robert Davis
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Chewed up bad!
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  #59  
Old September 11th, 2016, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Chewed up bad!
This one was bad to shift, the driver told me, but if a gear was found, all went well with this unit!

Too much play at the input and output shaft!







The pump doesn't do its job anymore.





This causes some broken parts inside the housing.





These taper rollers are missing!



The syncromesh assembled with the input shaft, just missing the broken ring.



And the remaining parts inside, without the input shaft.

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  #60  
Old September 14th, 2016, 04:39 PM
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The ultimate way to extract the inner ring off the shaft was necessary:



Friction-weld at its best, even the distance plate was welded too.
The main shaft doesn't look good in shape at this point of view.



BTW, as the main shaft is too long to fit my shop press, extensions where needed!
It's a long way to force this ring off the shaft!



Afterwards, the shop press is to be shortened to fix the shaft without 1st, 2nd and synchromesh, forcing the rear taper bearing off.



In fact you don't ruin your R380, the shaft will look in pretty good condition!

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