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  #41  
Old January 19th, 2013, 07:32 PM
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silverlight
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Geoff
1993 Defender 110 NAS
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I have an RDX relay, one from SuperbrightLEDs, and will see which one works best when I go to install the front and rear external LED parking/signal/brake/reverse lights. Also have 4 resistors ready to go as needed (although I get the sense only 1 pair will be needed).

So I found a great mount for the bar, I bought the 50" as well. Perfect fit. Tracked down a mount from a company called Axia Alloys, which makes a custom mount for the Rigid LED bars. What was VERY fortunate is the D110 roll bars start to curve in where I had to mount, and the unique modular components of the mount allowed it to rotate on top to accommodate. Although I only used enamel paint, I painted the base of the mount white with a few coats (powder coating would have been preferred but didn't have easy access to this and didn't want to dedicate a little oven for this). Here's a photo of the mount, took minutes to install (painting is what took the time; and with enamel it's not great anyway because it flaked a little around the contact points anyway).

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Here's the link to the mount:
http://axiaalloys.com/Billet%20LED%2...ter_name=rigid
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  #42  
Old January 19th, 2013, 08:21 PM
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Ian Gregory
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You cant run LEDs in the turn signal indicator on the dash. The circuit changes polarity depending on which side turn signal you have on I think was the problem when I was trying this on mine.

That and the trailer indicator are the only 2 non-LED lamps in my dash.
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  #43  
Old January 19th, 2013, 08:34 PM
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Geoff
1993 Defender 110 NAS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ipgregory View Post
You cant run LEDs in the turn signal indicator on the dash. The circuit changes polarity depending on which side turn signal you have on I think was the problem when I was trying this on mine.

That and the trailer indicator are the only 2 non-LED lamps in my dash.

that's very helpful to know and explains perfectly the behavior (working with one side and not the other). I don't know much about electrical systems, but wouldn't that be something that could be corrected for (although prob. not worth the hassle).
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  #44  
Old January 19th, 2013, 08:50 PM
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Neill Thornton
1984 D90 300 Tdi / 1965 Series IIA
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You can fix it, but you have to wire in diodes between the indicator and the harness.
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  #45  
Old January 19th, 2013, 08:58 PM
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Geoff
1993 Defender 110 NAS
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@Manimal - here are a few pictures. First of the install from the front. One 50" Rigid bar up top and two 6" Rigid bars down below. Haven't done the headlights yet, will do them shortly. The next three photos, just for perspective are the relative brightness of the low beams (not stock, I had previously upgraded the headlamps, the bulb and the wiring harness to heavy duty + relay), followed by high beams plus lower LED's, follow by turning on the top bar. Aperture/exposure/frame rate/color balance were all set manually (it's a manual camera) and held constant so it's a true apples to apples comparison. While it's not great taking shots at night with a camera relative to in person viewing, nonetheless gives a sense. when I get the new headlamps installled will take some night photos from inside the car for comparison as well for those interested

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  #46  
Old January 19th, 2013, 09:35 PM
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Carl Jonsson
1995 NAS D90 #219
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Thanks! Very helpful. I will be ordering a set tomorrow. Did you use the same mount for the 20" light bar?

Quote:
Originally Posted by silverlight View Post
I have an RDX relay, one from SuperbrightLEDs, and will see which one works best when I go to install the front and rear external LED parking/signal/brake/reverse lights. Also have 4 resistors ready to go as needed (although I get the sense only 1 pair will be needed).

So I found a great mount for the bar, I bought the 50" as well. Perfect fit. Tracked down a mount from a company called Axia Alloys, which makes a custom mount for the Rigid LED bars. What was VERY fortunate is the D110 roll bars start to curve in where I had to mount, and the unique modular components of the mount allowed it to rotate on top to accommodate. Although I only used enamel paint, I painted the base of the mount white with a few coats (powder coating would have been preferred but didn't have easy access to this and didn't want to dedicate a little oven for this). Here's a photo of the mount, took minutes to install (painting is what took the time; and with enamel it's not great anyway because it flaked a little around the contact points anyway).

Here's the link to the mount:
http://axiaalloys.com/Billet%20LED%2...ter_name=rigid
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  #47  
Old January 19th, 2013, 09:38 PM
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Geoff
1993 Defender 110 NAS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
Thanks! Very helpful. I will be ordering a set tomorrow. Did you use the same mount for the 20" light bar?
Just bought the Rigid branded mounting bracket for the 6" as the bars on the truck have mounting holes for 3 lights on the front (middle one used for the winch; removed Hellas from the two others and replaced with the LEDs).
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  #48  
Old January 19th, 2013, 09:48 PM
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Carl Jonsson
1995 NAS D90 #219
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Thanks! Great comparison. Those bars are bright alright. 16 000 lumens on the top bar. Nice work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by silverlight View Post
@Manimal - here are a few pictures. First of the install from the front. One 50" Rigid bar up top and two 6" Rigid bars down below. Haven't done the headlights yet, will do them shortly. The next three photos, just for perspective are the relative brightness of the low beams (not stock, I had previously upgraded the headlamps, the bulb and the wiring harness to heavy duty + relay), followed by high beams plus lower LED's, follow by turning on the top bar. Aperture/exposure/frame rate/color balance were all set manually (it's a manual camera) and held constant so it's a true apples to apples comparison. While it's not great taking shots at night with a camera relative to in person viewing, nonetheless gives a sense. when I get the new headlamps installled will take some night photos from inside the car for comparison as well for those interested
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  #49  
Old January 19th, 2013, 10:07 PM
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Chris
72 + D1 drivetrain
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Are you going to try those trucklite 7inch headlights?
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A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
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  #50  
Old January 19th, 2013, 11:09 PM
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Geoff
1993 Defender 110 NAS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
Are you going to try those trucklite 7inch headlights?
Yes, those are the ones I got (2nd generation), will take photos of them in tomorrow and post. Not sure how they'll look but I'm sure will perform well.
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  #51  
Old January 20th, 2013, 01:52 PM
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Carl Jonsson
1995 NAS D90 #219
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Just ordered the clamps. How much did you pay for the trucklite LED headlights? I may go with those instead of the JW Speakers.
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  #52  
Old January 20th, 2013, 02:01 PM
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Geoff
1993 Defender 110 NAS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
Just ordered the clamps. How much did you pay for the trucklite LED headlights? I may go with those instead of the JW Speakers.
I picked them up at Drivetrain America, they shipped quickly and were very well packed (and best price I came across). I bought them from their ebay store, but you can buy direct for the same price HERE . FWIW I scrounged around for reviews and these were both less expensive and clearly outperformed the JW Speakers in the couple reviews I read.

Let me go take a picture of them installed so you can see what they look like. They pair perfectly with the Rigid's in terms of color temperature when turned on. They of course look "unique" when off but growing on me (on a black defender would be pretty cool)
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  #53  
Old January 20th, 2013, 02:35 PM
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Geoff
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Here's a photo with the Truck-Lite headlights installed:

Click image for larger version

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  #54  
Old January 20th, 2013, 03:02 PM
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Chris
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Dang that was quick

Now go out fir a drive and tell is how well them do.
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A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
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  #55  
Old January 20th, 2013, 03:54 PM
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Carl Jonsson
1995 NAS D90 #219
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Looks great!

I see you have a set of four Max Trax as well.
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  #56  
Old January 20th, 2013, 05:14 PM
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Reese_D90
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Reese
97 D90 ST and 93 D110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverlight View Post
Here's a photo with the Truck-Lite headlights installed:

Attachment 64819
Are they a direct plug and play or did you have to change the plug??
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  #57  
Old January 20th, 2013, 05:59 PM
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Geoff
1993 Defender 110 NAS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reese_D90 View Post
Are they a direct plug and play or did you have to change the plug??
Yes, they're plug n play into the 3 prong plug so it's a very quick and easy direct replacement. It's a heavy, very solid feeling unit. Btw, the low beams light up only the top 1/2 of the lens and the high beams light up the full lens top and bottom.
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  #58  
Old January 20th, 2013, 06:47 PM
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Dave Lucas
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Have you used the led headlights in the snow yet?

Just wondering if the snow sticks to them?
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  #59  
Old January 20th, 2013, 07:04 PM
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Lee
1994 D90 ST
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Nice looking 110. Can you take a pic this evening with 2nd generation trucklite leds on. Thank you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by silverlight View Post
Here's a photo with the Truck-Lite headlights installed:

Attachment 64819
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  #60  
Old January 20th, 2013, 07:21 PM
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silverlight
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Geoff
1993 Defender 110 NAS
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re snow, not yet, just put them in, but we might get some tomorrow. they don't run as hot as my last headlights (which are much brighter than stock), but they do run warm prob. similar to the stock headlights.

Apologize for the drifting of the post here from the original topic but just wanted to provide this info in case others are considering these headlamps. Mostly great feedback, but one drawback I should mention (which was mentioned in reviews as well). Went driving this evening with them. Totally unscientific, but a few observations. (1) Truck-Lite low beams vs low H4 halogens. definitely brighter, better vision, and color matches perfectly with the LED light bars which is a natural daylight full spectrum color. the key issue to mention here is that vs halogen beam pattern it's a little uneven and each lens has a hot spot in the middle that looks like a triangle pattern on the road. (2) high beams Truck-Lite vs high beams H4. Here light output is more comparable, maybe even a slight edge to the halogen, and the halogen's beam is broader and reaches higher up to the trees whereas the TruckLite is a very focused and more tightly aimed beam and easily reaches a farther distance. (3) since my 6" LED bars are triggered to turn on with the high beams I leave them on all the time and they engage each time I active the highs. these bars are so incredibly bright that in comparison it's almost hard to drive when switching to low beams for oncoming traffic. With these bars on it's really like driving in the the middle of the day. A really nice combination with the Truck-lites. (4) the 50" bar is pretty much overkill. Its so bright beyond practical utility that I'd say it's really unnecessary but for the really extreme offroad conditions (NOBODY could be in front of you either oncoming or vehicles your following, it would blind). Best bang for buck was the 2 6" bars, nice and low key and you'd never guess how good they are looking at them.

Here are a few pictures. First looking at the Truck-lites and how they function, low beams followed by high beams.

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Next images are of the beam patters: (1) TLite low beams, (2) Tlite high beams, (3) number 2 plus the 6" Rigid LED bars, (4) number 3 plus the 50" Rigid LED bar. Note that I had aimed the headlights at my garage door to set them, but once I got out on the road it was clear I could aim them higher which I did and shouldn't be an issue for oncoming traffic. As before all photos taken with constant aperture/frame rate/ISO/white balance (hence the significant over exposure in picture 4).

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