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ROW D90 LED Light Replacement

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90 ac d90 ht
21K views 86 replies 29 participants last post by  emah 
#1 ·
Just in case anyone else wants to swap out all of the external lights on their Non-NAS 90 with LEDs, I thought I would share the part numbers I used,

These are all from www.superbrightleds.com.

Turn signals (all 4): 1150-A45-T
Front Markers (2): 1156-CW45-T
Tail / Brake Lights (2): 1157-R45-T
Backup Lamp: 1156-CW45-T
Rear Fog Lamp: 1156-R45-T
Side "repeater" lights (I think this was not factory, mine look like they came from a RRC): WLED-A6
License Plate: BA9s-WHP9

I also needed a LED compatible flasher. I used CF13GL-02.

Everything was plug and play, no wiring mods or other messes.
 
#31 ·
Just in case anyone else wants to swap out all of the external lights on their Non-NAS 90 with LEDs, I thought I would share the part numbers I used,



Turn signals (all 4): 1150-A45-T
Front Markers (2): 1156-CW45-T
Tail / Brake Lights (2): 1157-R45-T
Backup Lamp: 1156-CW45-T
Rear Fog Lamp: 1156-R45-T
Side "repeater" lights (I think this was not factory, mine look like they came from a RRC): WLED-A6
License Plate: BA9s-WHP9

I also needed a LED compatible flasher. I used CF13GL-02.

Everything was plug and play, no wiring mods or other messes.
Have you tried ebay site for these led lights?
 
#34 ·
Hi all! Great info here on the interior and exterior LED lights. I've been ordering up bulbs and lights and have most of them now. Was in behind the dash of my 110 this evening and decided while I had it out to replace the bulbs to the appropriate LED's. The D110 has not been playing nice since making the swaps. I changed them for the 3 switches (front and rear defrost, hazard lights), and for the strip of markers (warning lights, headlamp indicator, hi beam indicator, engine service, trailer, etc.). There are a couple I left b/c I ran out of red, etc, but I do have enough to pop in clear LEDs for now if needed. However since putting them in, the left parking / turn signal lights front and back fail and blow the fuse. the rear defrost sparked blew the fuse. All else equal in the vehicle. Using the appropriate bulbs (they are all 74GHP/74RGP and other color variants such as amber, cool white, etc.). So curious what I'm missing. Didn't read about others having this issue.

Thanks for any insight!
 
#36 ·
I'll go take some photos and post. I got them from place folks here sourced them, the Superbrightleds store online.

So I did make one discovery. I spent quite a while searching on the forum and I came across one thread where it was mentioned that a guy melted his wires from installing the LEDs due to the fact the LED bulbs have the wires wrapping around both sides of the base. it is the case with the bulbs I received as well, and where there was a short one of the bulbs' wires burned in this area where it wrapped around. I've tried clipping them back, but now most of the bulbs don't work unless I fiddle with the source of the light (defrost switch, headlamp switch, etc.). Will post some pics in a few

thanks
 
#37 ·
That guy was me. :)

It sounds like you may have the same problem. If you look inside the sockets that you are plugging into, take a look at the electrical contacts and tell me what you're seeing. Better yet, a photo if you can swing it.
 
#38 · (Edited)
@Manimal - looks like we had a similar problem. Definitely it was the lights. I probably also had some good luck and was rolling the dice much better than 50/50 when I installed the interior LEDs the first time. After some diligence, I re-checked the clipped ends on the LED's and trimmed to optimal amount and re-inserted and after some trial and error realized that I had to do a quick test on each light for polarity and would reverse as needed to get them all working (as my luck moved the other way on guessing polarity). so the shorts and burned fuses were all tied to the LED lights not being plug and play and requiring a clip on the ends of the wires (thank you for your feedback on the other thread!). I still dont have a signal indicator for right turn only (although the signals work just fine externally, haven't changed those yet) while left works. Everything else seems to be in good shape. Need to order a few more bulbs as the 110 requirements are slightly different in a few cases (different for a couple gauges, and the dome light is different as well). Got the side markers in, they look great. Waiting for the RDX lights for the front from the UK which should be in next week and hopefully the rear square lights as well from Australia (to keep the NAS 110 look). Will be putting in truck lite LED headlights tonight, and just finished installing a Rigid Industries bar on the top/roof and a couple where the Hella driving lights were on the front bars. Will have to see how it all turns out in terms of "looks". Definitely not for the traditionalist but I like it so far. Improvement in light is ridiculous though. Those Rigid's are very bright.
 
#39 ·
Did you change the flasher relay to an LED one? You may also need resistors. My front turn signals required resistors in order to work.

Funny, I am doing the same Rigid LED upgrade myself! I have a Rigid 20" SR LED bar that I mounted on the ARB right in front of the grill. I agree, it looks a bit a non-traditional but performance trumps appearance in my book. I also have a Rigid 50" SR LED bar that I am planning to install on the roll cage above the windshield but I need to fab a new cradle for it. Last addition I'm planning on are a set of JW Speaker LED headlights. After that I should be all set. :)

I'm curious to see how yours turns out. Post pics when you're done and I'll do the same.
 
#41 ·
I have an RDX relay, one from SuperbrightLEDs, and will see which one works best when I go to install the front and rear external LED parking/signal/brake/reverse lights. Also have 4 resistors ready to go as needed (although I get the sense only 1 pair will be needed).

So I found a great mount for the bar, I bought the 50" as well. Perfect fit. Tracked down a mount from a company called Axia Alloys, which makes a custom mount for the Rigid LED bars. What was VERY fortunate is the D110 roll bars start to curve in where I had to mount, and the unique modular components of the mount allowed it to rotate on top to accommodate. Although I only used enamel paint, I painted the base of the mount white with a few coats (powder coating would have been preferred but didn't have easy access to this and didn't want to dedicate a little oven for this). Here's a photo of the mount, took minutes to install (painting is what took the time; and with enamel it's not great anyway because it flaked a little around the contact points anyway).



Here's the link to the mount:
http://axiaalloys.com/Billet LED Li...ge Series-Satin-Clear-Black?filter_name=rigid
 
#46 ·
Thanks! Very helpful. I will be ordering a set tomorrow. Did you use the same mount for the 20" light bar?

I have an RDX relay, one from SuperbrightLEDs, and will see which one works best when I go to install the front and rear external LED parking/signal/brake/reverse lights. Also have 4 resistors ready to go as needed (although I get the sense only 1 pair will be needed).

So I found a great mount for the bar, I bought the 50" as well. Perfect fit. Tracked down a mount from a company called Axia Alloys, which makes a custom mount for the Rigid LED bars. What was VERY fortunate is the D110 roll bars start to curve in where I had to mount, and the unique modular components of the mount allowed it to rotate on top to accommodate. Although I only used enamel paint, I painted the base of the mount white with a few coats (powder coating would have been preferred but didn't have easy access to this and didn't want to dedicate a little oven for this). Here's a photo of the mount, took minutes to install (painting is what took the time; and with enamel it's not great anyway because it flaked a little around the contact points anyway).

Here's the link to the mount:
http://axiaalloys.com/Billet%20LED%20Light%20Bar%20Mount%20for%20Rigid%20Ind%20Edge%20Series-Satin-Clear-Black?filter_name=rigid
 
#62 ·
Been coming back to this on how best to cure the issue. I looked high and low for a T5 base LED bulb that was non polarized (there are a few out there, just haven't found a shape that works).

I kept coming across online the simple wiring in of a full spectrum bridge rectifier as a quick solution to this issue. However as I look at the circuit diagram, tapping into the hot wire behind the warning lights panel is straight forward, however all the grounds in this circuit are all over the place and I wouldn't be connecting to the common ground utilized by the relay or flashers (and perhaps this doesn't matter anyway).

Going back to your comment above, Is a diode install just inline on the power wire for each of the direction and trailor LED indicators? (which would be fairly easy to take care of)? If so, what spec in terms of voltage/amp range would you suggest?

thanks (ps. obviously limited knowlege here... but enjoying reading up on it)
 
#45 ·
@Manimal - here are a few pictures. First of the install from the front. One 50" Rigid bar up top and two 6" Rigid bars down below. Haven't done the headlights yet, will do them shortly. The next three photos, just for perspective are the relative brightness of the low beams (not stock, I had previously upgraded the headlamps, the bulb and the wiring harness to heavy duty + relay), followed by high beams plus lower LED's, follow by turning on the top bar. Aperture/exposure/frame rate/color balance were all set manually (it's a manual camera) and held constant so it's a true apples to apples comparison. While it's not great taking shots at night with a camera relative to in person viewing, nonetheless gives a sense. when I get the new headlamps installled will take some night photos from inside the car for comparison as well for those interested



 
#48 ·
Thanks! Great comparison. Those bars are bright alright. 16 000 lumens on the top bar. Nice work.

@Manimal - here are a few pictures. First of the install from the front. One 50" Rigid bar up top and two 6" Rigid bars down below. Haven't done the headlights yet, will do them shortly. The next three photos, just for perspective are the relative brightness of the low beams (not stock, I had previously upgraded the headlamps, the bulb and the wiring harness to heavy duty + relay), followed by high beams plus lower LED's, follow by turning on the top bar. Aperture/exposure/frame rate/color balance were all set manually (it's a manual camera) and held constant so it's a true apples to apples comparison. While it's not great taking shots at night with a camera relative to in person viewing, nonetheless gives a sense. when I get the new headlamps installled will take some night photos from inside the car for comparison as well for those interested
 
#52 ·
I picked them up at Drivetrain America, they shipped quickly and were very well packed (and best price I came across). I bought them from their ebay store, but you can buy direct for the same price HERE . FWIW I scrounged around for reviews and these were both less expensive and clearly outperformed the JW Speakers in the couple reviews I read.

Let me go take a picture of them installed so you can see what they look like. They pair perfectly with the Rigid's in terms of color temperature when turned on. They of course look "unique" when off but growing on me (on a black defender would be pretty cool)
 
#60 ·
re snow, not yet, just put them in, but we might get some tomorrow. they don't run as hot as my last headlights (which are much brighter than stock), but they do run warm prob. similar to the stock headlights.

Apologize for the drifting of the post here from the original topic but just wanted to provide this info in case others are considering these headlamps. Mostly great feedback, but one drawback I should mention (which was mentioned in reviews as well). Went driving this evening with them. Totally unscientific, but a few observations. (1) Truck-Lite low beams vs low H4 halogens. definitely brighter, better vision, and color matches perfectly with the LED light bars which is a natural daylight full spectrum color. the key issue to mention here is that vs halogen beam pattern it's a little uneven and each lens has a hot spot in the middle that looks like a triangle pattern on the road. (2) high beams Truck-Lite vs high beams H4. Here light output is more comparable, maybe even a slight edge to the halogen, and the halogen's beam is broader and reaches higher up to the trees whereas the TruckLite is a very focused and more tightly aimed beam and easily reaches a farther distance. (3) since my 6" LED bars are triggered to turn on with the high beams I leave them on all the time and they engage each time I active the highs. these bars are so incredibly bright that in comparison it's almost hard to drive when switching to low beams for oncoming traffic. With these bars on it's really like driving in the the middle of the day. A really nice combination with the Truck-lites. (4) the 50" bar is pretty much overkill. Its so bright beyond practical utility that I'd say it's really unnecessary but for the really extreme offroad conditions (NOBODY could be in front of you either oncoming or vehicles your following, it would blind). Best bang for buck was the 2 6" bars, nice and low key and you'd never guess how good they are looking at them.

Here are a few pictures. First looking at the Truck-lites and how they function, low beams followed by high beams.



Next images are of the beam patters: (1) TLite low beams, (2) Tlite high beams, (3) number 2 plus the 6" Rigid LED bars, (4) number 3 plus the 50" Rigid LED bar. Note that I had aimed the headlights at my garage door to set them, but once I got out on the road it was clear I could aim them higher which I did and shouldn't be an issue for oncoming traffic. As before all photos taken with constant aperture/frame rate/ISO/white balance (hence the significant over exposure in picture 4).

 
#63 ·
I did drop an order in for a T5 miniature wedge base non-polarized LED bulb in green, but it will take a couple months to arrive from the factory. I only need a couple and ended up buying 25 so if it works, I'll post down the road and happy to send a couple (turn signal and trailer lights) to those interested.

Here's the light: View attachment Dialight LED.pdf
and the only place I could find low volumes (I've bought some high end components for audio builds from them before so can at least vouch for the place, but we'll see if they can fulfill < 100 units...)
 
#65 ·
Hi Steve - I definitely like the color better, much closer to natural light, the biggest difference is that the light pattern is more focused. I don't have much night driving time logged yet with the new headlights so will reserve judgment, but vs stock they're far superior. They're a little better than the upgraded halogens I had on previously (above DOT bulb ratings), but the light pattern is different which is a personal preference (a little more light in the focused areas and less light in surrounding areas). I'm so used to flipping onto high beams with the 6" Rigid bars with no oncoming traffic, which is pretty frequent at night where I am, that anything in the range of low beam lights seems pretty dim and takes a bit to have my eyes adjust to.
 
#70 ·
Geoff, thanks for the review on the 2nd Gen Trucklites. I may have missed it...but a couple of questions. 1. Did you upgrade your harness at all or add something like the IPF/Painless harness? 2. Do you have any flickering issues? 3. Do you have a delay when switching beams?

I'm probably going to go this way and you are the first Rover guy to have a review on these. The $eep guys have some great reviews online regarding these lights.
 
#71 ·
Hi Sam - I do have an upgraded harness which I had put in earlier to support higher wattage halogen bulbs prior to making the switch (the harness and the new H4's made a BIG difference vs stock and to me seem like a no brainer given how anemic the stock setup is). Given what I assume is lower power requirements for the LED headlights I'd assume the stock harness would be more than acceptable, but this would need to be confirmed. I've had no flickering whatsoever, and no delay (or perceived "warm-up") between low and high beams.

I'll be back at our house this weekend and will get more time with them and report back any updates. I had put on the 4 front amber indicator/parking lights from RDX/boltonbits in the UK and the 4 rear square LED lights from Australia last weekend. I just have to fit the rear LEDs into the stock rubber housing to complete the install. Then everything will be all LED in/outside. Last minor wait will be the non-polarized bulb for the turn signal dash indicator light so that it flashes on both sides. Rambling here... but a fun project. Picked up a pair of Rigid D2 Dually's for rear work lights which will be another little add-on project.
 
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