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View Poll Results: Which roof design
sloped front, square rear 16 44.44%
sloped both ends 1 2.78%
square both ends 19 52.78%
Voters: 36. You may not vote on this poll

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  #101  
Old March 1st, 2010, 05:48 PM
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Bill Adams
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Trailer myazz, that's a TOW launcher if I ever saw one. S'matter, gettin fed up with I66?
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

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  #102  
Old March 1st, 2010, 06:43 PM
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Charles Galpin
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TOW launcher will be separate lid attachment.

I don't have any beef with I66. It stays where it is, I stay where I am, everyone is happy!
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  #103  
Old March 4th, 2010, 11:42 PM
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Charles Galpin
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RTT Mounted!

I got enough done to get the RTT mounted for a trip to Rausch Creek this weekend. I bought 250# springs and they hold it open but don't give much assistance on initial lift due to being so short. I'll probably figure out a way to add the 100# ones in tandem, and since they are longer, they should be able to give more assistance near the closed position.

You can't see it in these pictures, but I bought a paddle latch and slam lock kit. I didn't have room for a vertical install so I modified it to work sideways and installed/tested without the roof skin. I haven't cut the hole for the latch yet in case I can't resolve the spring issue, in which case I'll need two hands to lift the lid and the latch makes that very hard. I'll actuate it from inside for now (I can reach in the rear and open it).

Anyway, excited to see how the RTT is going to work out.

charles
p.s. Thanks to Jim C. for the tub capping!
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  #104  
Old March 5th, 2010, 12:18 AM
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Looking good!

What color are you planning to paint it?
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  #105  
Old March 5th, 2010, 12:20 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Either white or Cornish Cream LRC374. Haven't decided which yet.
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  #106  
Old March 5th, 2010, 12:44 AM
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A light color will be nice, my trailer is camo green and it gets hot inside.

I just went downstairs and checked my gas springs and I am using 2 150lb shocks. With my RTT installed they lift the lid and hold it up. Might be the location or angle you have yours mounted at?

Edit:

Looking at the pics I would say a bit of both but mostly location, with the springs that close to the hinge you will need more pressure to open the lid but with the tailgate not much you can do about that.
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  #107  
Old March 5th, 2010, 09:05 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Right, other than adding a bar across the back of the tailgate I am limited to about 12" from the hinge for the bottom mount right now.

But am am curious what the rough dimensions of your trailer are, spring length, rough mounting distance from the hinge, and the weight of the roof. Mine has to be 275-300 lbs.
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  #108  
Old March 5th, 2010, 10:07 AM
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4ft wide
6 2 long
Lid is made from 1 square tube 1/8 thick with 2 supports in the center that are 2 x 1
Lid is covered with 3 coats of herculiner
RTT is a technitop

I am not sure what the entire setup weighs but would assume it is more than yours.

The gas springs are the exact same length as the ones I sent to you.

Top mount for the gas spring is mounted exactly in the middle of the lid, anything less than the center and you really have to start upping the pressure on the springs.

As you can see the bottom mount is close to the edge and I think it would work with your tailgate.

If you are mounting it less than the center of the lid on the hinge side you will have to add higher pressure springs and the closer you get to the hinge you will need more and more pressure. You also need to pay attention to the spring angle

With my current setup I open the lid and it slowly lifts the lid, when I close the lid it only take a light downward pressure from 1 hand to close it.

I tried 3 different pressure gas springs prior to settling on the 150lb
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  #109  
Old March 5th, 2010, 10:24 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Well, your tent is listed as 115lbs, mine 195lbs so I'm guessing my overall setup is heavier with a 80lb disadvantage

What sucks is the 250lb springs I got are actually shorter than the ones I got from you. I didn't dare order from allegis since it takes too long for shipping and those were the only ones mcmaster had in stock that met my needs. Longer ones would have taken a few weeks. I got the fancy (expensive) stainless ones so maybe I should put them back in the box now before using them Heavier duty (and more expensive) ones are available, but I'm still leaning toward doubling them up.

I'll think about it a bit but the angle is a problem with the tailgate as well. Maybe if I commit to having a slide out drawer I can then move the bottom mount further out and lower if needed but i really don't want to block the ability to slide heavy boxes in through the back.
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  #110  
Old March 6th, 2010, 09:52 AM
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When I design a lid with gas springs I don't have the object in front of me yet. So I use online calculators such as this one to get in the ballpark:

http://www.jindalstainless.com/toolk...alculator.html

Then the fabricator usually does something entirely different that doesn't work. When I show up and have them do it by my design, amazingly it works.

One thing to consider is that gas springs DO fail. You'll likely have your head under there so it might be a good idea to fit it with a solid prop that can be hooked in place once the lid is lifted, like the hood of a car.
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  #111  
Old March 8th, 2010, 09:59 AM
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I know how much my lid weighs within 20 lbs or so. Find me a calculator that can tell me the strength spring I need if you want - the one on mcmaster doesn't go within an order of magnitude of my weight.

Works close to perfect with the tent deployed (ie 100lbs lighter).

http://gallery.lhsw.com/view_photo.p...tt&id=DSC04758
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  #112  
Old March 8th, 2010, 11:30 AM
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was wondering what the problem was. went to look at the mcmaster page and they no longer provide the equations. lame. I will go and look at an old printed catalog...



Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
I know how much my lid weighs within 20 lbs or so. Find me a calculator that can tell me the strength spring I need if you want - the one on mcmaster doesn't go within an order of magnitude of my weight.
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  #113  
Old March 8th, 2010, 11:58 AM
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Bennett Marine has a 24 inch hydraulic hatch lift cylinder that retails for 153.00. With that and a $40 Mercruiser trim pump you'll be golden.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

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  #114  
Old March 8th, 2010, 12:03 PM
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As much as I appreciate the assistance, I'm trying to keep it simple. Maybe when I go to air bags and a controller to make the trailer jump to the beat of the song I have on the radio, I'll do the power lid lift
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  #115  
Old March 8th, 2010, 12:07 PM
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here is the page with the formulas for calculating the correct spring force. hope it is helpful.
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  #116  
Old March 8th, 2010, 03:05 PM
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Trailer power hatch lift

You need this guy
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  #117  
Old March 9th, 2010, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
here is the page with the formulas for calculating the correct spring force. hope it is helpful.
Thanks Dave, that is helpful.

According to this formula all I need is 2 x 180lb springs. Given that my 250# springs can hold it up, it's just a matter of positioning (essentially what Dave L. said earlier). In my efforts to avoid blocking the tailgate access I kept the bottom mount high, which results in little to no upward push when closed. It seems I have no choice but to lower the bottom mount.

It really sucks because with the lid it's hard to reach into the trailer to access the back half. And with the tent deployed it's not always convenient to lift the lid (like if someone is in there). I am sure I'll want to be ale to slide things in and out through the tailgate with the lid closed and this is where the spring gets in the way.

But I'll try lower it a bit and see how it goes. My top mount is fairly close to center right now, but that will have to move toward the hinge a bit, but it seems my shocks should be string enough.
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  #118  
Old March 9th, 2010, 10:40 AM
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You need longer springs with the lid end mounted further from the hinge. Keep the bottom where it is and it will be mostly out of your way, no?

edit:

okay I see what you mean about the lack of lift due to the high position of the bottom mount. most of our applications are much smaller and lighter so we don't really need the initial assist. but the cases we are building are only 1 1/2" deep and the spring is pointing downward in the closed position, so it is similar to your situation. I would have to go open one up and see where the assist startsd, but I think if you move the upper mount further from the hinge and use a slightly more powerful spring you might get what you need. you can run the math using the figures from your lid in any position and see what the required forces are. then take the average so that it is not impossible to close


Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Thanks Dave, that is helpful.

According to this formula all I need is 2 x 180lb springs. Given that my 250# springs can hold it up, it's just a matter of positioning (essentially what Dave L. said earlier). In my efforts to avoid blocking the tailgate access I kept the bottom mount high, which results in little to no upward push when closed. It seems I have no choice but to lower the bottom mount.

It really sucks because with the lid it's hard to reach into the trailer to access the back half. And with the tent deployed it's not always convenient to lift the lid (like if someone is in there). I am sure I'll want to be ale to slide things in and out through the tailgate with the lid closed and this is where the spring gets in the way.

But I'll try lower it a bit and see how it goes. My top mount is fairly close to center right now, but that will have to move toward the hinge a bit, but it seems my shocks should be string enough.
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  #119  
Old March 9th, 2010, 10:44 AM
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Without dropping the bottom mount I get no extra upward push by moving the top mount further away from the hinge. Right now the force is essentially parallel to the tub edge when closed. I need that force to point upward a bit.

As soon as I drop it a bit, then yes this will help. But I'll try with the springs I have first as they appear to be strong enough to be able to shift back a few inches.

------ Follow up post added March 9th, 2010 10:46 AM ------

Oh, and I can also have the lid not open quite as much as I do now if necessary, which allows me to keep the same top mount distance from the hinge (or close to it).
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  #120  
Old March 9th, 2010, 02:54 PM
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Oh, and I can also have the lid not open quite as much as I do now if necessary, which allows me to keep the same top mount distance from the hinge (or close to it)

Mind your noggin
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