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View Poll Results: Which roof design
sloped front, square rear 16 44.44%
sloped both ends 1 2.78%
square both ends 19 52.78%
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  #81  
Old January 18th, 2010, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Ok would love to see them please.

Thanks, but for right now I'll pass.
The ones Ren Ching is refering to are the MOD ones. Julian had a 110 tub with those lockers in it and we gave them the once over. Very very simple. Just need a decent sheet metal brake and a rivet gun. Had you asked Troy about making you up something ?
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  #82  
Old January 18th, 2010, 10:25 AM
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Good idea to talk to Troy. Even the "simple" stuff I want to do requires a decent brake. Capping the front properly really means putting a lip on the top/bottom and it's a 5 foot span which rules out baby brakes afaik.

I think making a box is easy. Getting the doors to look decent and seal and lock well is another story though. Other than perhaps making my sliders to account for those fancy ones (since they dip below the bottom of the tub) there is nothing stopping me from adding them later so I'm going to put them on the back burner. I like the clean lines of the unmolested tub too.
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  #83  
Old January 18th, 2010, 10:40 AM
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I want to do the same thing you are doing for a lid- for the sankey. How are you joing the galvy dip edge/rain gutter ? Need to borrow my porta power this evening for a week or so if you are going to be around.
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  #84  
Old January 18th, 2010, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maryland 110 View Post
I want to do the same thing you are doing for a lid- for the sankey. How are you joing the galvy dip edge/rain gutter ?
You mean how am I joining the aluminum to the drip rail? Not 100% sure yet but will be rivets of some sort and bolting down a tie-down rail system over the lip as well.

To create the custom sized drip rail I just carefully ground down the galvy at the joints, wore a mask, put a fan right next to my work on high, and keep the garage doors open while I welded. No "metal fume fever" yet for me (knock on wood).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maryland 110 View Post
Need to borrow my porta power this evening for a week or so if you are going to be around.
Anytime except this Fridat. It's just been sitting here. I need your help to do the one job I want to do with it, so maybe we can knock that out when you come over and get it? Otherwise I'll just borrow it again when I finally get around to using it :D

charles
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  #85  
Old January 18th, 2010, 08:58 PM
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Charles, I have a 36" brake if you need it.
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  #86  
Old January 19th, 2010, 10:04 AM
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Thanks man. But I need to do 60+" bends
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  #87  
Old January 19th, 2010, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Thanks man. But I need to do 60+" bends
Yikes, good luck with that.
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  #88  
Old January 30th, 2010, 07:26 PM
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Update - looks like I'm going with my original plan, sloped front and square back. Sorry to all the box fans.

The reason is that after cutting up one of my roofs and getting to try a number of things (including TIG welding it - thanks Mat M) I realized I wouldn't get the results I was after. Playing around with it, I found I could add 2" or so to the front with a simple flange and avoid having to deal with the ribs, moving the center brace (perhaps adding a second) etc. I am not finished but definitely feel this is the way to go.
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  #89  
Old January 31st, 2010, 10:27 AM
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Lookin' good!
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  #90  
Old February 14th, 2010, 11:04 PM
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I got some time to work on the trailer finally. I'm very pleased how the top is turning out. While doing the aluminum work and thinking about hinges and latches I realized the roof as planned wasn't going to be strong enough to support the weight of the RTT and the struts, and after using the trailer in "utility mode" a few times in the last week I want to be able to remove the lid/top quickly and easily. I came up with a brilliant idea (if I do say so myself) that both stiffens the roof and makes it very clean looking as it hides all the rivets. Instead of a piano hinge I plan to use 2 or 3 external hinges that tie into the exo-tube and tie the roof racks into it as well so the weight of the RTT is directly supported by the tubing.

I threw in a picture of the rear blanked off before removing it to fit the tubing because I made it 1/4" too tall so I need to redo it

Anyway, slow progress but very happy with how it's turning out.
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  #91  
Old February 16th, 2010, 03:11 PM
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Lookin good man!
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  #92  
Old February 27th, 2010, 08:48 PM
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Jeff, I don't think I ever thanked you for your initial assessment pictures and the suggestion to widen the drip rail, which is what I ended up doing. So, thanks!

I got the hinges mounted today although I still need to cap off the mounting blocks. I have the nuts welded under the capping - turned out to be a much harder task than you'd think - at least for me anyway.

Going to do the front capping tomorrow and mount the gas struts. I test mounted one and it didn't hold the weight of the roof, so seriously doubt two will support the roof with the RTT.
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  #93  
Old February 28th, 2010, 09:45 AM
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pictures aren't doing this trailer justice. looks awesome
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  #94  
Old February 28th, 2010, 03:03 PM
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Holy crap Charles, you are going to be the object of envy at the next MAR.
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  #95  
Old March 1st, 2010, 08:29 AM
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I left the inner bulkhead for two reasons. First I didn't have the capping material to do the front until recently and wasn't sure if it would be a full replacement strength wise as well as removing it introduced more work to finish it out. But that cavity is just about the right size to make a front door top storage space, keeps one of the gas springs/struts out of the main compartment, and could be used as a "wet" or "dirty" storage area if needed. I'll probably come up with other things to use the space for too.
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  #96  
Old March 1st, 2010, 08:42 AM
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McMAster Carr has the formulas for placement and selection of gas springs. we use them alot here at work and the formulas work pretty well. You can find them on the 1st page of the gas springs secton.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Going to do the front capping tomorrow and mount the gas struts. I test mounted one and it didn't hold the weight of the roof, so seriously doubt two will support the roof with the RTT.
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  #97  
Old March 1st, 2010, 08:46 AM
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Yeah I'm going to check them out this AM. The ones I have now were given to me by Dave L. and came from Allegis who I know have a 250# version of the same size, but I know mcmaster ships crazy fast which will be the tipping point for me if they have what I need.

I am unsure of the exact weight I am dealing with, as well as how the forces change at those angles, but can report that 2 of the 100# springs hold the empty lid fine.
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  #98  
Old March 1st, 2010, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
I left the inner bulkhead for two reasons. First I didn't have the capping material to do the front until recently and wasn't sure if it would be a full replacement strength wise as well as removing it introduced more work to finish it out. But that cavity is just about the right size to make a front door top storage space, keeps one of the gas springs/struts out of the main compartment, and could be used as a "wet" or "dirty" storage area if needed. I'll probably come up with other things to use the space for too.

Make sure you put a drain in it, that way you can fill it with ice and beer.
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  #99  
Old March 1st, 2010, 01:53 PM
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That trailer is looking great! It seems just about perfect for wheelin' trips as you'll be able pack no shortage of spare parts.

The top is coming out great and looks like it will seal up everything well once it is done. Being a bike rider, I think a couple of nice bike racks with dialed bikes on those crossbars would look absolutely treats.

Are you going to keep it raw or add paint once things are done?
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  #100  
Old March 1st, 2010, 02:02 PM
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This would make one awesome beer cooler for sure!

Don, I'm going to strip it down when done and galvanize all the steel and paint all the aluminum (either white or Cornish Cream LRC374). I'm putting a roof top tent on it but it can be easily removed and use the racks for other purposes. The top can be easily removed as well, although I find it much easier with a helper.
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