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  #1  
Old August 30th, 2013, 11:21 AM
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William Ficner
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Roof Refurb Advice

I'm sure this information is somewhere on the site, but I haven't been able to find it as of yet.

In the middle of my 110 rebuild and I would like to get the roof ready for paint. I want to remove all the old cracked and useless sealant on the roof and in the gutters. I'm wondering if anyone has any good tricks for getting it out of the gutters? It's mighty thick in there.

Also wonder what the latest and greatest goop is for the reseal. I know I want something that resists UV, is non-silicone and self leveling. I imagine the stuff ECR uses works very well but I don't see it mentioned what actual product they use.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Cheers,
Will
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  #2  
Old August 30th, 2013, 12:17 PM
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ECR uses SEM sealers I believe. Im going to try the white self leveling SEM seal for the gutters.
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Old August 30th, 2013, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMac View Post
ECR uses SEM sealers I believe. Im going to try the white self leveling SEM seal for the gutters.

Thanks for the info. Will you use the same SEM seal for the roof top seams as well?
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Old August 30th, 2013, 12:52 PM
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I'd use 3m 4200 or 5200 and know it will never leak again.

For removing the existing stuff try a product named antibond 2015. Its meant for the modern uber adhesive/sealants but seems to work on most any sealant. I find marine things correspond well to rovers as aluminum is popular in that industry as well. Things like tinned wire are key to quality upgrades on rovers.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...=antibond_2015
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Old August 30th, 2013, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
I'd use 3m 4200 or 5200 and know it will never leak again
Does the 3M product self level or do you need to force it into the cracks and smooth it manually?

Again thanks for the info, I will try the antibond out.

Will
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Old August 30th, 2013, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilboro View Post
Does the 3M product self level or do you need to force it into the cracks and smooth it manually?

Again thanks for the info, I will try the antibond out.

Will
depends on conditions, if its cool and you don't buy the fast cure- yes it will self level. If its 85 and humid and you get the fast cure it may kick before laying down as much as you would like. Get a small 12 dollar tube and try it out. The caulk gun tubes are around 20. I use the stuff to fix everything.
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  #7  
Old August 30th, 2013, 03:12 PM
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5200 is some of the stickiest goo on earth. Wear your surgical gloves cz the stuff gets all over no matter how careful you are.
Regular 5200 takes a long time to cure but once it does, that's it for ever.
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  #8  
Old August 31st, 2013, 12:05 PM
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William Ficner
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Thanks for all the advice.

Is there anything else I should be thinking about when doing this project other than: Remove old stuff, clean and apply new. Then send for paint?
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  #9  
Old May 12th, 2014, 08:48 PM
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Time to revive this thread. Ok so I did finish this roof, getting the old sealant out of the gutters was a huge project. I tried using this marine release agent, but it was a marginal help at best.

I ended up using the 5200, and went about it by laying a thick bead down, then pulling a home made tool to force it down and make a smooth flat surface. It worked ok but I think I might have gone a bit overboard with the amount of sealant. I also seems to have trapped some air in spots. If up you push down on it you can feel in areas what seems like voids underneath the surface. Not sure how I could have avoided that, maybe less 5200... Or maybe something a bit more viscous and self levelling, maybe the SEM stuff?
Overall it did a good job and I assume it will be water tight for some time.

So now it's time to do a second roof and I'm a bit loathe to pull all that gutter sealant again. Land rover monthly just had a feature where they suggest merely taking out any loose sealant and putting new on top of old. Anyone done this with success? I kind of feel like a hack even considering this route but the last one was such a pain.
Here are a few pics of the last roof.
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  #10  
Old May 12th, 2014, 09:30 PM
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Will, what did you use to remove the old sealant and can the 3m or SEM be left white or does it need paint over top?
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  #11  
Old May 12th, 2014, 09:49 PM
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I tried a few different tools but mainly ended up using a narrow flat screwdriver and a small awl. Oh and a razor. The marine release agent helped soften it a bit I suppose.
As far as not painting it, I think that's fine at least the 5200 anyway. It can however be sanded and painted if you want.
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  #12  
Old May 12th, 2014, 10:02 PM
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FWIW, I was told that some use a flame to burn the old sealant out.
I haven't done this personally and I imagine that not only is it tedious but I bet you have to be careful not to burn through or warp the birmabright.
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  #13  
Old May 12th, 2014, 10:10 PM
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Very helpful. I have cracks in the sealant/coating on the roof and the sealant in the gutters is obscene. Want to tackle this as soon as I can find some nice indoor space to do the work.
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  #14  
Old May 12th, 2014, 10:57 PM
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William - Hi. I'm going to have to do the same thing to my top. Thanks for posting your experience. So is the 5200 more like a puddy than a caulk?
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  #15  
Old May 12th, 2014, 11:06 PM
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It's like caulk, pretty gooey. But just not quite viscous enough to level itself. Any it's messy as others have said. It's hard to get off whatever it gets on. Gloves and old clothes are necessary. I've read mineral spirits are good to wipe things down after an hour, but I didn't try this myself.
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Old May 12th, 2014, 11:15 PM
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Old clothes..oh yes, I have been wearing and re-washing the same two sets of clothes during my restore. I have a 10 gallon bucket of por15 ...I'm ready for the messy. I just wasn't sure how quickly the 5200 sets up, if it's like caulk then I understand and bonus if it can be sanded and painted. Did you have anything on the inside of the roof, like a headliner? It looks like there was once something glued? onto mine.
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  #17  
Old May 12th, 2014, 11:25 PM
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William Ficner
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Ok por15 may be worse. 5200 is pretty slow to set, I think 7-14 days for full cure and it's tacky for at least 48/72hrs. 3m has a faster setting version of 5200 if you can't wait, and has similar properties http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...%20Sealing.pdf

Nothing was glued to the roof in mine, once the headliner was popped off it was primed aluminum. I did run a bead on the inside seams as well.
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Old May 12th, 2014, 11:40 PM
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Wow 7-14 days. Bet it sets up like concrete, good. I can already think of other projects to use it on. No rush here. Someone must have tried to glue something up there, all that is left is the residue. Whatever it was I'm glad I didn't have to rip it out. The only aluminum cleaning product that I have ever used is NAPA aluminum brightener, on canoes. It works really well. Do you think it would be safe to use this for removing that old adhesive? ..or do you know of something else?
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Old May 13th, 2014, 07:37 AM
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Find your local automotive paint supplier and buy proper body sealant. It comes in cans for brushing on or tubes for caulking.
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  #20  
Old May 13th, 2014, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbfritz_03 View Post
Wow 7-14 days. Bet it sets up like concrete, good. I can already think of other projects to use it on. No rush here. Someone must have tried to glue something up there, all that is left is the residue. Whatever it was I'm glad I didn't have to rip it out. The only aluminum cleaning product that I have ever used is NAPA aluminum brightener, on canoes. It works really well. Do you think it would be safe to use this for removing that old adhesive? ..or do you know of something else?
Look up a product called Anti Bond 2015. It was made for use with 5200. The only way to break the bond of 5200 is a razor blade or Anti Bond 2015. When I recommended 5200 to the OP I suggested the quick cure version.
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