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  #21  
Old May 13th, 2014, 11:56 AM
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William Ficner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
Look up a product called Anti Bond 2015. It was made for use with 5200. The only way to break the bond of 5200 is a razor blade or Anti Bond 2015. When I recommended 5200 to the OP I suggested the quick cure version.

I went with the longer curing, as I hoped it would self level a bit better and I wasn't in a rush. Although I don't think it really leveled itself at all. It was necessary to do it mechanically.

Doug what was your technique for applying the Anti Bond 2015 did you simply score the surface then spray? Does the old stuff just peel out after, or is it still a huge amount of digging and scraping to get it out?

Although I didn't use the 2015, as it wasn't available in town, I did use another marine de-bonding spray and it helped a little but I wouldn't say it was superb. I scored the top of the old sealant, and ran a razor down each side to help the liquid seep down.
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  #22  
Old May 13th, 2014, 12:54 PM
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Jafir Elkurd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
I'd use 3m 4200 or 5200
Some replacement doors say that the skins are "marine bonded"

http://www.splandrovers.com/DEFENDER...OR_p/ajc6g.htm

Would this 4200 or 5200 be used for that too?
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  #23  
Old May 29th, 2014, 02:24 PM
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Ben Goodwin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbfritz_03 View Post
Wow 7-14 days. Bet it sets up like concrete, good. I can already think of other projects to use it on. No rush here. Someone must have tried to glue something up there, all that is left is the residue. Whatever it was I'm glad I didn't have to rip it out. The only aluminum cleaning product that I have ever used is NAPA aluminum brightener, on canoes. It works really well. Do you think it would be safe to use this for removing that old adhesive? ..or do you know of something else?
With the adhesive residue, just flip the top upside down and poor lacker thinner over it. Before it evaporates just scrape out with a plastic putty knife. Then hit with a pressure washer.
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  #24  
Old May 29th, 2014, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockShow View Post
With the adhesive residue, just flip the top upside down and poor lacker thinner over it. Before it evaporates just scrape out with a plastic putty knife. Then hit with a pressure washer.
Thank you for the advice Ben. *Grimace and groan* I have been pondering the stinky lacquer thinner, whole lot of old adhesive and elbow grease option. What do you think about just media blasting it?
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  #25  
Old May 29th, 2014, 03:56 PM
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Ben Goodwin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbfritz_03 View Post
Thank you for the advice Ben. *Grimace and groan* I have been pondering the stinky lacquer thinner, whole lot of old adhesive and elbow grease option. What do you think about just media blasting it?
If you have access to a good setup then I think soda or a lite media to start is the way to go. Plus if you are going to repaint the inside you don't have to worry about the scotchbrite pads after the blasting.

My blaster sucks and until I get triple phase power my compressor is not up to the task.

It really isn't too bad using the acetone as the pressure washer does most of the work.
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  #26  
Old May 29th, 2014, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockShow View Post
If you have access to a good setup then I think soda or a lite media to start is the way to go. Plus if you are going to repaint the inside you don't have to worry about the scotchbrite pads after the blasting.

My blaster sucks and until I get triple phase power my compressor is not up to the task.

It really isn't too bad using the acetone as the pressure washer does most of the work.
I should go on and purchase my own set up, but a friend of mine offered to do all the blasting so I will probably use the pressure washer to give everything else a good cleaning/degreasing. The radiator cooler fan went out in my car last night, so I pulled the old one and I'm waiting on my sis to come back with the new - up and running by dinner. I'd much rather be getting greasy working on the landy though
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  #27  
Old April 4th, 2017, 10:41 PM
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scott
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Hi Will


I am working on my first restore on a 110 and have been looking at my roof so I have and been reading your post of roof sealant for the gutters. any update on what you have used and suggestions since you started this post?


thanks
Scott
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  #28  
Old April 4th, 2017, 10:52 PM
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William Ficner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooter View Post
Hi Will


I am working on my first restore on a 110 and have been looking at my roof so I have and been reading your post of roof sealant for the gutters. any update on what you have used and suggestions since you started this post?


thanks
Scott
The only thing is would do a bit differently would be to put a thinner layer of the 5200 on. I went quite thick which allowed some air pockets to form and make the surface a bit lumpy in a few spots. I'm sure the seal is totally fine though and it's really not noticble unless your looking for it.

I would also do more masking, they say it's sandable and it is to an extent, but it would be better not to have to sand at all. The sanding I ended up doing was ok, but I went back masked everything and did kind of a top skim layer for aesthetics. This would have been unnecessary had been a bit more careful in application.
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  #29  
Old April 7th, 2017, 07:32 AM
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thanks Will, I will follow your advice and see how it turns out. Thanks for the update


Scott
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  #30  
Old May 21st, 2017, 02:52 PM
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I am getting near the point of putting in the 5200, but was just questioning if I should epoxy primer it first or put in the 5200. Not sure what would give the best result. I have some exposed alum. and thought that the primer might be a better first coat to seal it and then the 5200.


Anyone have an opinion?


Thanks
Scott
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  #31  
Old May 21st, 2017, 07:55 PM
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William Ficner
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I put sealant in first then primed and painted although there was likely the original primer still in there to some extent ..... All good so far.


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  #32  
Old May 23rd, 2017, 05:32 PM
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scott
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Thanks for the info, from the removal process I have a lot of bare alum in the gutter. I do not think the paint was that thick to start with and removing the sealant required some scrubbing. here is what it looks like in once section. thanks Scott
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  #33  
Old October 2nd, 2017, 10:05 PM
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scott
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I used the 5200 fast cure on my roof and noticed that there were bubbles under some areas. doing a further inspection there were many areas that had bubbles. I was able to pull up the caulk without much effort. see below. It did not seem to matter if it was bare metal or painted it did not hold to either. I ended up pulling all the 5200 product up and cleaned up the remaining pieces. I called 3M and a tech recommended the product below instead. my plan now is to put a layer on of the epoxy primer on the entire roof and then put the new caulk down.






here is a link to the new product.




http://www.3mcompany.lk/3M/en_LK/company-lk/all-3m-products/~/3M-Urethane-Seam-Sealer-08368-White-310ml-Cartridge-12-per-Case?N=5002385+3293939446&rt=rud#


I will let you know how it turns out
Scott


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  #34  
Old October 22nd, 2017, 10:12 PM
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I finished the roof gutter caulk re-work. I put one coat of epoxy prime down first and then the new caulk over it and it seems to be holding nicely. I put a second coat of prime on rest of the roof with one good coat over the caulk. the primer is holding well to the caulk. here is picture of the caulk before painting. I used a series of different size plastic putty knives to spread and level the caulk bead working about a two feet at a time. this stuff skins over in about 10-15 minutes so it set up fast. I waited two days before painting.


Scott
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