Rear Door Rebuild Q's - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 28th, 2017, 01:39 PM
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Rear Door Rebuild Q's

Picked up (new, old style) stripped door from another member, getting ready to put things together. Have a few questions that some of you may have experience with...

1. Rear latch/lock. OEM is pretty expensive, are the $80 3rd party versions ok to run with? Mine is pretty beat and latch has a difficult time working. I read about rebuilding and most posts just recommend new.

2. Door piston kit, anyone have recommendations on which one?

3. Door Rubber. The glass has zero rubber involved what I can see. Just the glazing strip if wanted and a good sealant to weatherproof the glass?

4. Aluminum retainer strips. Why are some OEM versions black and some bare aluminum? Does anyone have any experience with 3rd party kits or are they junk? Mine is pretty chewed up and would like to replace it.

5. MTC4290 - Retainer Seal. Not sure what this is, I dont see it on my ROW 90. Do I need it?



6. Anyone have any rear door cards they want to part with?

Thanks in advance.
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  #2  
Old September 28th, 2017, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WK2Burner View Post
1. Rear latch/lock. OEM is pretty expensive, are the $80 3rd party versions ok to run with? Mine is pretty beat and latch has a difficult time working. I read about rebuilding and most posts just recommend new.
Yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by WK2Burner View Post
3. Door Rubber. The glass has zero rubber involved what I can see. Just the glazing strip if wanted and a good sealant to weatherproof the glass?
No rubber, no glazing strip.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WK2Burner View Post
4. Aluminum retainer strips. Why are some OEM versions black and some bare aluminum? Does anyone have any experience with 3rd party kits or are they junk? Mine is pretty chewed up and would like to replace it.
Because bare aluminum is OEM. The OEM also corrodes. Black strips are painted to try to prevent corrosion. I've never used a third party kit.

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Originally Posted by WK2Burner View Post
5. MTC4290 - Retainer Seal. Not sure what this is, I dont see it on my ROW 90. Do I need it?
You don't already have it on your roof?
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  #3  
Old September 28th, 2017, 02:05 PM
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Thanks for the response.

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Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Because bare aluminum is OEM. The OEM also corrodes. Black strips are painted to try to prevent corrosion. I've never used a third party kit.
I got the top retainer part included with the door, it's OEM, and is painted black. I was going to order the rest, but wanted to make sure they were black as well, I guess I could always just paint them.


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You don't already have it on your roof?
Didnt see it, but I guess I can take a better look. Sometimes hard to tell with the Italian "Maaco" paint job that it received prior to shipping.
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  #4  
Old September 28th, 2017, 02:06 PM
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I would go with the OEM latch if you are going to keep it. I got maybe 10 years from the aftermarket ones before something fails. The OEM one feel better too. Get a new seal for it and the captive bolt and nut plates.
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  #5  
Old September 28th, 2017, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by WK2Burner View Post
Didnt see it, but I guess I can take a better look. Sometimes hard to tell with the Italian "Maaco" paint job that it received prior to shipping.
Should be riveted on. the seal attaches to it.
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  #6  
Old September 28th, 2017, 02:13 PM
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I installed some window seal (black rubber vehicle seal) around my glass to save the rattles, not factory but I had found my aluminum retaining trim for the glass wasn't really providing an adequate seal. Say what you want but I have seen how bad these doors rust and I figured saving a point of ingress was worth adding a bit of rubber
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  #7  
Old September 28th, 2017, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NPT90 View Post
I installed some window seal (black rubber vehicle seal) around my glass to save the rattles, not factory but I had found my aluminum retaining trim for the glass wasn't really providing an adequate seal. Say what you want but I have seen how bad these doors rust and I figured saving a point of ingress was worth adding a bit of rubber
Did you have to add extra sealant since the glass was raised a bit off of the door frame?
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Old September 28th, 2017, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NPT90 View Post
I installed some window seal (black rubber vehicle seal) around my glass to save the rattles, not factory but I had found my aluminum retaining trim for the glass wasn't really providing an adequate seal. Say what you want but I have seen how bad these doors rust and I figured saving a point of ingress was worth adding a bit of rubber
You are supposed to use sealant on the glass when installing.
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  #9  
Old September 28th, 2017, 02:24 PM
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I used something like that on the bottoms and top (flat areas between the channel and the glass

Then I used something like this (came in a double roll for vehicles):



I would imagine home depot, lowes, ace hardware or your local RV shop would all sell this stuff in a variety for sizes and widths

------ Follow up post added September 28th, 2017 12:26 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
You are supposed to use sealant on the glass when installing.
Yeah I peeled some of that off, added some more, but the aluminum retaining stuff was either bent or just tired so I had to build up the gasket behind it holding it in place
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  #10  
Old September 28th, 2017, 02:28 PM
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Caulking is the easiest and best way to go. Silicone, acrylic latex or urethane will all be fine.... It is just a window.
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  #11  
Old September 28th, 2017, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Caulking is the easiest and best way to go. Silicone, acrylic latex or urethane will all be fine.... It is just a window.
Clearly yours didn't break free of the sealant and start rattling about!

Its an awful lot of noise if its not a tight fit
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  #12  
Old September 28th, 2017, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NPT90 View Post
Clearly yours didn't break free of the sealant and start rattling about!

Its an awful lot of noise if its not a tight fit
Any decent sealant with hold the window for the rest of time. My rear door was assembled 15 years ago.
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  #13  
Old September 28th, 2017, 02:48 PM
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I think the $10 in weatherstripping was a good investment but of course your experience may vary
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  #14  
Old October 20th, 2017, 11:28 AM
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Thinking about the rear door piston kit conversion from bearmach or Naka ($100 + ship), Beamach ($53 + ship), but I dont think I can use a Mud door card if I do the piston conversion unless I go with the upper door piston kit or cut up the plastic.

Anyone run one of these kits? Can you open the door only slightly or halfway, or does the piston force it all the way open once you unlatch it? Have to likely decide on flat doorcard, or the normal standard hinge setup with Mud card unless i do the upper door piston. Thanks.
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