Rear Axle Rebuild/Toyota Conversion - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 11th, 2010, 05:18 PM
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Rear Axle Rebuild/Toyota Conversion

Starting getting parts for a new project. Instead of making it easy and just using an ARB 4.11 setup I bought from Ron, I'm going to try Keith's/RoverTracks Toyota conversion. This post will document the process along with costs and Ease/PITA of install.
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  #2  
Old May 11th, 2010, 05:25 PM
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look forward to seeing it....
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  #3  
Old May 11th, 2010, 05:50 PM
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SWEET!!


did you get the third in one piece?
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  #4  
Old May 11th, 2010, 05:50 PM
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http://bankbikes.com/D90/Rear_Axle/img_0098.jpg
http://bankbikes.com/D90/Rear_Axle/img_0099.jpg
Rear Disco axle I got from the boneyard today - this sucker is heavy!

http://bankbikes.com/D90/Rear_Axle/img_0100.jpg
Toyota E-Locker on the left, ARB in a LR diff w/ 4.10's on the right

I'll get more detailed pics as I go along.

Costs so far:
Rear axle - $250
Toy-E-Locker w/ 4.10 gearing - $450
ARB LR Diff w/ 4.10 gearing - $800

------ Follow up post added May 11th, 2010 06:14 PM ------

Plan (as of right now):

Strip Disco axle
Get Toy Conversion kit from Keith @ RT's
Fab axle housing to fit Toy-E-Locker diff and have my buddy TIG weld it together
Get it sandblasted then powdercoated
Rebuild hubs using new bearings and new brake disks and backing plate
Install Toy diff and RoverTrack HD axles
Setup brakes with new pads and lines (hopefully stainless)

Overall my plan is to get the axle all done on the shop floor and that way I can spend a minimal amount of time with the 90 out of commission. And I can take my time and get the axle cleaned up as best I can. I might continue using the POR-15 & chassis black on that section of frame as it will be wide open.

If anyone has any suggestions or thoughts please feel free to let me know. I'm sure I'll have questions as I get more into it.

------ Follow up post added May 11th, 2010 06:18 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by mightymg View Post
SWEET!!


did you get the third in one piece?
I think I would have gotten fine crystal in one piece the way you wrapped it up! Thanks!

It blew away the FedEx guy. I yelled "it's going to be heavy" right before he picked it up. He was like "WTF?" is in there and laughed when I told him a differental. He said it was a smart way to ship it. Stock piling pieces and saving coin for Keith's kit and might even go Buck's sways at the same time.

One thing for sure is how much beefier that pinion gear is.
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  #5  
Old May 11th, 2010, 06:30 PM
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Nice!
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  #6  
Old May 11th, 2010, 06:31 PM
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Cool, Im glad it made it.. I packaged it in the plastic 5 gallon tub because a few years ago I sold will tillery an arb third and I packaged it in a cardboard box. Well UPS dropped it somewhere so bad that it demolished the box, bent the pinion flange and effed the whole thing up. so I refunded will the money and did a claim for the insurance and they told me to get bent... so thats also why i use fed ex.

------ Follow up post added May 11th, 2010 04:32 PM ------

when you cut the old diff cover off, dont forget to leave a little lip to help center the sewer cap...
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  #7  
Old May 11th, 2010, 08:25 PM
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Cool Don... Looks like a great project. I would sugest not to powder coat the housing.. I would just prime and paint it. Its a lot cheaper and you can touch it up when you scratch it on the rocks... I'm also not a fan of rear backing plates. I remove them permanently on all builds. They always get crap jammed behind them..

------ Follow up post added May 11th, 2010 08:26 PM ------

when lookin for one of those 3rd's, what year and spec do you look for?
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Old May 11th, 2010, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mightymg View Post
Cool, Im glad it made it.. I packaged it in the plastic 5 gallon tub because a few years ago I sold will tillery an arb third and I packaged it in a cardboard box. Well UPS dropped it somewhere so bad that it demolished the box, bent the pinion flange and effed the whole thing up. so I refunded will the money and did a claim for the insurance and they told me to get bent... so thats also why i use fed ex.

------ Follow up post added May 11th, 2010 04:32 PM ------

when you cut the old diff cover off, dont forget to leave a little lip to help center the sewer cap...
Thanks for the tip. Hopefully my buddy will lay down his fine beads on that part of it :D

------ Follow up post added May 11th, 2010 09:44 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by TDI Guy View Post
Cool Don... Looks like a great project. I would sugest not to powder coat the housing.. I would just prime and paint it. Its a lot cheaper and you can touch it up when you scratch it on the rocks... I'm also not a fan of rear backing plates. I remove them permanently on all builds. They always get crap jammed behind them..

------ Follow up post added May 11th, 2010 08:26 PM ------

when lookin for one of those 3rd's, what year and spec do you look for?
Thanks for the tips Randy. I have been going back and forth on whether to PC on the axle housing. The PC guy I use has done pieces for me before and they come out really good. He'd done mtn bike frames that see their fair share of tosses and rocks and they've held up well. He also did my rear bumper and yes it did get some grind marks on Florida Rd it overall it held up really good.

But the biggest reason to PC for me is I f**king hate prepping and painting stuff. PC - I can drop it off and pick it up in a week and it'll look sweet for about $100. I'm weird - some grind marks would make me stoked a paint run would drive me nuts. IDK - I'll probably think about it some more.

I like to hear that about rear backing plates. I was going to ask what they heck their purpose is? To get clogged with junk and then rust? I'll be sure to delete them.

I honestly don't know the year and spec on the Toyota third. Keith and Lane helped me out a ton on it. I'd send Keith an email as he probably knows of the top of his head. I have to say Keith has been top notch so far. I sent him a page long email asking all sorts of kooky questions. He was coming up with ideas and answered everything. You can tell he just loves it. And bare in mind I haven't ordered any kit (but soon!)
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  #9  
Old May 11th, 2010, 11:09 PM
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The thirds for the front are any front FJ 80 landcruiser third, you can get a e locker or an open one. the rear just needs to be a yota 8 cyl third, you can use a 4 banger one, or the recommended v6. They are both 30 spline, but the v6 has larger carrier bearings, and are stronger.

I hope this helps..







Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Thanks for the tip. Hopefully my buddy will lay down his fine beads on that part of it :D

------ Follow up post added May 11th, 2010 09:44 PM ------



Thanks for the tips Randy. I have been going back and forth on whether to PC on the axle housing. The PC guy I use has done pieces for me before and they come out really good. He'd done mtn bike frames that see their fair share of tosses and rocks and they've held up well. He also did my rear bumper and yes it did get some grind marks on Florida Rd it overall it held up really good.

But the biggest reason to PC for me is I f**king hate prepping and painting stuff. PC - I can drop it off and pick it up in a week and it'll look sweet for about $100. I'm weird - some grind marks would make me stoked a paint run would drive me nuts. IDK - I'll probably think about it some more.

I like to hear that about rear backing plates. I was going to ask what they heck their purpose is? To get clogged with junk and then rust? I'll be sure to delete them.

I honestly don't know the year and spec on the Toyota third. Keith and Lane helped me out a ton on it. I'd send Keith an email as he probably knows of the top of his head. I have to say Keith has been top notch so far. I sent him a page long email asking all sorts of kooky questions. He was coming up with ideas and answered everything. You can tell he just loves it. And bare in mind I haven't ordered any kit (but soon!)
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05 LR3 - Mamas/ tow rig


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  #10  
Old May 11th, 2010, 11:23 PM
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here is a few pics of my conversions i did about 3 years ago..

wow my welds sucked baaaaaad! HA!
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05 LR3 - Mamas/ tow rig


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  #11  
Old May 12th, 2010, 08:30 AM
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Cool pix... Do the rears come in an e-locker as well?
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Old May 12th, 2010, 08:45 AM
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You could take the axle housing down to blastmaster in Clifton, have them blast it and put on a coat of their zinc-rich primer. Its the next best thing to galv without the hassle of dipping. I did that for both my axles and then just shot them with rustoleum to make them black.
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  #13  
Old May 12th, 2010, 08:50 AM
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now I know where that e-locker I wanted ended up.... I may have to track you down and kill you

------ Follow up post added May 12th, 2010 05:57 AM ------

I'm doing this conversion too... having trouble finding the e-lockers for a decent price... may end up paying out the nose for them...
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Old May 12th, 2010, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDI Guy View Post
Cool pix... Do the rears come in an e-locker as well?

Yes the TRD tacomas, and prerunners had them...
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  #15  
Old May 13th, 2010, 09:30 AM
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Ive got new RT caps (Keith told me they were a new design) at home waiting to be welded in but i think it would be better to remove as much of the old cover as possible.....at least the caps i have only have a small angled chamfer taken out and i tried to pound it on but would sit right.....so i took the rest of the cover off and made sure the surface was level.....ive burned in all the studs on my front and rear conversion now just to see if the diffs fit and then weld the caps and paint everything.

i cant wait to get this setup out in the woods!
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Old May 13th, 2010, 09:51 AM
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Thanks - I guess I'll just wait to see what the cap looks like before I start cutting. So you are going front and rear Toy? Would love to hear what you think about it on the trail (as well as on the street too).
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Old May 13th, 2010, 09:56 AM
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yep front and rear...ive got a lockright in the back for now (we'll see how well it works).....and the new yukon airlocker up front both with 4.10 gears.........total time i have about maybe 4-5 hrs left but getting out there in the garage is another story..hope to have it done soon though
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  #18  
Old May 13th, 2010, 02:49 PM
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Yeah i have the new cap on the front and the old style on the rear of mine.. they both work th esame, the new style is machined out to allow it to be smaller and cloer to the gears.

you will love the lockrite, I ran that in the back of my toy disco for about 2 years and it was awesome always locked up when the cdl was locked, and stayed unlocked when the cdl was unlocked. It was great...
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Old May 13th, 2010, 03:02 PM
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Good to hear.......im probably not going any bigger than a 35 with the truck anyhow so i dont think ill have any probs
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Old October 7th, 2010, 10:34 AM
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Just to throw a small update in the process. Yes, I am slow on certain things this being one of them.

I got the axle stripped, then sand blasted. Finally got it over to my buddy so he could lay some wire down. He actually needed to bring it to work as he only had a TIG machine at his house. And with the Sewer Cap being so thick said MIG would be the way to go. Said the penetration ended up good and his buddy at work thought he back purged it, haha.

Anyway here is my gallery documenting it: http://d90.unionstreetbikes.com/medi...picture&id=153

I have a bunch of new parts like seals, rotors, pads. Just need to figure out what coating I want to go with it and set some time to finish it up. I've been side tracking myself with a VDO speedo install, Yakima tire rack fab, Storage box, and rear jump seat seatbelts. Once I get it painted, I should have a boost in motivation to assemble it.
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