Rear Axle Rebuild/Toyota Conversion - Page 3 - Defender Source
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  #41  
Old November 4th, 2011, 01:08 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Yes the bolts that hold the arm to block that has the ball joint. If you have a link to that thread handy, please let me know as I am ordering from mcmaster.

Thanks,
charles
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  #42  
Old November 5th, 2011, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication
Nice "paint booth"!
Haha, it's the Western Mass in me. Comes out every now and then.

------ Follow up post added November 5th, 2011 07:14 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
Yes the bolts that hold the arm to block that has the ball joint. If you have a link to that thread handy, please let me know as I am ordering from mcmaster.

Thanks,
charles
Charles - sorry I flaked on the thread on dweb and the size. I saw your other thread and hoping you got the right size. Have been ultra busy.
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  #43  
Old November 5th, 2011, 07:20 PM
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Friday: got the topcoat down on the frame. Read the wiring and directions for the E-Locker kit from Inchworm. Very complete and should be straight forward to hook up.

Paint seemed dried so hooked up the receiver from JSQ and got the tank back in. Thought it would go quick but afraid not. But I'm stoked how it all came out. Pics of the setup and the massaging I had to do on the aluminum gas tank skid plate.

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  #44  
Old November 6th, 2011, 03:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
If so I brought one of the snotted ones to Lowes and grabbed 2 Grade 8 1/2" x 6.5" long with lock nuts. It's not exact but very close. I have 2 of those ball joint pieces so I plan on swapping in a new ball joint at some point down the road. There is a thread on discoweb that has the proper size if you are ordering from McMaster Carr.
Be careful with that, If the bolts aren't the right diameter there'll be movement between the arms and the ball joint holder, there's a lot of force on those components.
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  #45  
Old November 6th, 2011, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by mikeslandrover View Post
Be careful with that, If the bolts aren't the right diameter there'll be movement between the arms and the ball joint holder, there's a lot of force on those components.
Will do and very good point, that was creeping around in the back of my head. One of the bolts is still fine and the other I might be able to get the threads better. I don't have any real way to get the thread size and pitch though.

Charles - So still not sure what the ball joint bolt size is. I found the thread in dweb (http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=54074) and after rereading it, they are talking about the upper bolts and is confirmed on Rover North's page: http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-3...t-34-x-4-.aspx
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  #46  
Old November 7th, 2011, 09:35 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Thanks Don. I'm good on the top bolts.

I am going to attempt to find someplace that will press out the bushings and ball joint without removing those bolts for now. Only if I have to will I remove them and then measure for the proper replacement size. I'm still amazed that this hasn't been run into a bunch of times and documented by now.
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  #47  
Old November 7th, 2011, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Thanks Don. I'm good on the top bolts.

I am going to attempt to find someplace that will press out the bushings and ball joint without removing those bolts for now. Only if I have to will I remove them and then measure for the proper replacement size. I'm still amazed that this hasn't been run into a bunch of times and documented by now.
Yes, I've search and haven't seen anything although RovahFarm lists a 1/2UNF X 6 1/2" bolt for the rear suspension upper. I just put mine together and using the good stock bolt and a 1/2" x 6 1/2" grade 8 I got from Lowes. It seems very tight but I'd like to find the fine thread OE bolt setup eventually.
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  #48  
Old November 7th, 2011, 12:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Thanks Don. I'm good on the top bolts.

I am going to attempt to find someplace that will press out the bushings and ball joint without removing those bolts for now. Only if I have to will I remove them and then measure for the proper replacement size. I'm still amazed that this hasn't been run into a bunch of times and documented by now.
Charles, do you not have a press? I think most people avoid messing with the A-arm stuff - including me.
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  #49  
Old November 7th, 2011, 01:48 PM
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A cheap HF one (technically Loic's) but I have managed to bend the press rod over time to the point where it's too bent to be functional. Jeff and I did his panhard rod a few weeks ago and now Its bent too far to do mine.

I also buggered up the socket I usually use to press them with, but have cut a slot in the side of an old bushing and hope to give that a try on a 20 ton press when this guy gets off work. We already pressed out the bushings on the A-arm but I had to run home to cut the ears off the ball joint mounting face in order to press it out. Not sure why I forgot, given I discussed this with Dana on Saturday!

------ Follow up post added November 7th, 2011 01:49 PM ------

Oh and I jest left the a-arm assembled do I don't need to mess with the hardware

------ Follow up post added November 7th, 2011 02:55 PM ------

A-arm bushings removed, old ball joint pressed out and new on in.

Struck 1 for 2 on the panhard rod. One is just too mangled from failed attempts to try anymore. I'll see if I can get a hacksaw blade into the inner bushing tube tonight, and if so, will hum working on the railroad for a bit and see how it goes...
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  #50  
Old November 8th, 2011, 01:12 AM
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Starting to come back together. Paint is dry and looks good. Pretty stoked with how it came out. I'll be happy if it holds up as good as it looks. It's nice working with clean and freshly painted parts. If I was to do it again tho, I would have pulled the brakets that hold the upper A-Arm legs to the frame and painted them. But felt at the time I had to draw the line someplace. The funny stuff near the frame holes is Waxoyl 120-4. I've been keeping a bottle close by and just spray it in when I'm near a hole in the frame in between bolting on pieces.

Also, attached a pic of Keith's @ RovingTracks trailing arm vs the stock arm. Lot more beef with Keith's setup plus has some extra clearance with the bend and new bushings that he popped in. Always happy with purchases from him.

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  #51  
Old November 8th, 2011, 01:13 AM
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Don Bunnell
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Axle in and just finished getting the trailing arms bolted in. Stupid me had the shocks bolted to pull the axle up or so I thought but they were twisting the axle and pushing it away. Once I un-bolted them and started using my jacks, things went together a lot more easily.

Hoping to pull get to drive it tomorrow just need to finish up a few little things but I'm sure they will take me a while.

Planned Schedule:
Weds - swap front diff with one I picked up from RonP with 4.11 gears and an ARB locker
Thursday - wire the Toy up and pray it works.
Friday - if things do well - drive out to RC.

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  #52  
Old November 8th, 2011, 08:08 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Lot more beef with Keith's setup plus has some extra clearance with the bend and new bushings that he popped in. Always happy with purchases from him.
I couldn't agree more, and you'll love those trailing arms.

Nice work on the painting. I just hit mine with a wire wheel, brushed on some eastwood rust encapsulator, and then topcoated with chassis extreme - only the areas close to the suspension parts though though It doesn't look pretty but I just wanted to contain any rust and I can always go back to the other areas if I get the bug.
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  #53  
Old November 8th, 2011, 05:56 PM
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She is in and working! Popped the front drive shaft off and drove around town a bit as I couldn't help myself (working on it for a week straight does that). Things feel solid but could be all the new bushings put in and using the ball joint from the donor Disco axle. I bet the stock LR carrier was a little worn too from 120k miles and some off road use on it. The lower gearing feels good but isn't too low like I was worried about. Overall pretty freaking happy that it is finally in there after sitting on the garage floor for over a year.

A few random things: ended up using RedLine synthetic in the diff. No one in the area had Mobil 1 diff fluid so I went RedLine. A quick search online seemed like the RedLine G5 stuff is fine for Toy diffs. Might change it out after a few thousand miles in case it gets dirty from Rausch and from the new axles and other items settling in.

Need to get the garage back in shape. I was in such a frenzy i have tools and oil all over the place. On to the front diff and wiring up the Inchworm kit. If things go well, I would love to get them both done tomorrow. But we will see...
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  #54  
Old November 9th, 2011, 09:21 AM
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Awesome work Don, I think I remember Advance auto next to Shoprite on 36 having mobil 1 gear oil as I was buying some for my trip to Guy Fawkes.
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  #55  
Old November 9th, 2011, 02:42 PM
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Awesome work Don, I think I remember Advance auto next to Shoprite on 36 having mobil 1 gear oil as I was buying some for my trip to Guy Fawkes.
Thanks airborn - I hit up the AutoZone in Middletown and they had a bunch available. It was on sale too.

Pulled the front diff which went more smoothly than I had expected. Unfortunately, after looking at the ARB diff and counting rotations it wasn't even 4 turns. Popped the stock diff next to it and after counting both gears' teeth, it seems the ARB has 3.54 gears. Jacked up the rear of the 90 and counted rotations on the Toy axle - just over four. Me = hosed.

At this point I'd say f**k it and blow off the trip to Rausch and deal with the situation at a more leasurely rate but my son has been asking each day this week about when we are going so last ditch effort - I called up Justin at Lucky8 - he's sending me some 4.12's Ashcrofts overnight. Now I'm hoping one of the local garages can set it up for me when it comes in sometime tomorrow and get it done sometime Friday. Never dull and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I'll still be able to make it to ROTR.

Stupid me x2 - I am kicking myself for not double checking the gear ratio even though the seller said it had 4.10's. Argggh.
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  #56  
Old November 9th, 2011, 02:45 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Don, if you want a backup plan, I can bring my "spare" 4.11 3rd member to Rausch. You can come down with the front ds out and we can install it there. No locker, but geared right.

charles
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  #57  
Old November 9th, 2011, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by cgalpin
Don, if you want a backup plan, I can bring my "spare" 4.11 3rd member to Rausch. You can come down with the front ds out and we can install it there. No locker, but geared right.

charles
Hey Charles-

I really appreciate the offer - when are you heading up to pa? I am out to some local garages now to see if I can set up an appt for tomorrow afternoon. If that works I can hopefully get the front diff in on friday then drive out. But will let you know the status. Lots of things to juggle but it may fall together. And big thanks!
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  #58  
Old November 10th, 2011, 12:47 AM
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I'm headed up Friday morning. Just let me know by say 10pm tomorrow night if you need it, and I'll throw the bucket in the trailer.
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  #59  
Old November 10th, 2011, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by cgalpin
I'm headed up Friday morning. Just let me know by say 10pm tomorrow night if you need it, and I'll throw the bucket in the trailer.
Thanks Charles - I should have a good idea by then what is going on with the front diff.
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  #60  
Old November 10th, 2011, 09:35 PM
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I'm headed up Friday morning. Just let me know by say 10pm tomorrow night if you need it, and I'll throw the bucket in the trailer.
Hey Charles - if you have the room, could you pack the diff? Hopefully I won't need it but I got the gears in late today from Lucky8 and not sure if the local shop can get turn it around for me quickly tomorrow. Hate to be a bother but it could save the trip if things don't go well for me tomorrow. Thanks!
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