Rear Axle: 10 Spline to 24 Spline Conversion / Seal Refresh / Ashcroft Locker Install - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 8th, 2015, 02:29 PM
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Rear Axle: 10 Spline to 24 Spline Conversion / Seal Refresh / Ashcroft Locker Install

This is a placeholder for the following work:

1. Conversion of RRC 10 spline rear axle to NAS/Disco I 24 spline rear.
2. Seal/Bearing refresh of rear axle.
3. Ashcroft Air Locker Install.
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  #2  
Old January 8th, 2015, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
This is a placeholder for the following work:

1. Seal/Bearing refresh of pinion and rear hubs and stubs.
2. Ashcroft Air Locker Install.
3. Install 24 spline axles
Fixed it.
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  #3  
Old January 8th, 2015, 02:58 PM
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thanks Bill, yes that was out of order
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  #4  
Old January 8th, 2015, 03:13 PM
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Part Numbers for seals and bearings on rear axle:

Pinion:
FTC5258 (V) - Diff Pinion Seal (Viton)
M88046 / M88010 - Inner Bearing / Race
HM801346 / HM801310 - Outer Bearing / Race

Carrier:
Comes with locker

Pinion/Diff Shims:
Bought from Ashcroft

Axle:
2xFTC5268G, Oil Seal - Stub Axle
2xFTC3650, Gasket - Stub Axle Rear ABS
2x Hub Oil Seal/Bearing Kit (looks like RovahFarm stocks this - includes FTC4785G, RTC3429G, FTC3179, 571752)
2xFRC8700 - Hub Lock Nuts
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  #5  
Old January 8th, 2015, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
This is a placeholder for the following work:

1. Conversion of RRC 10 spline rear axle to NAS/Disco I 24 spline rear.
2. Seal/Bearing refresh of rear axle.
3. Ashcroft Air Locker Install.
Not to beat a dead horse but you might want to just buy the 24 spline from a yard and rebuild. Good chance the d1 you source from will have been a grocery getter...
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  #6  
Old January 8th, 2015, 04:00 PM
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yep i am 100% with you....the rear axle components are coming from a junkyard axle
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  #7  
Old January 8th, 2015, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
yep i am 100% with you....the rear axle components are coming from a junkyard axle
Sorry I misread! I thought you were trying to convert your 10 splines...
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  #8  
Old January 12th, 2015, 06:04 PM
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np, sorry - this is confusing as heck for me as well, and will be a learning experience. Hard to succinctly describe what I am doing when I have no idea what I am doing short of Google wisdom

I stopped by a junkyard over the weekend and got the following parts from a Donor 1994 Land Rover Discovery I Rear Axle:

2x ABS stub axles + bolts
2x ABS stub axle dust covers
2x ABS brake hubs with brake discs
2x 24-spline ABS halfshafts with integrated "thin flanges" + bolts
all other small parts from the axleshafts

Rebuild kits with new seals and bearings on the way from Rovahfarm. Am planning to reuse my 10-spline third but replace the 10-spline diff with the 24-spline Ashcroft unit.

Am I missing anything that I need to do the conversion?

Another question:
The pinion seal shows two numbers:
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  #9  
Old January 12th, 2015, 06:53 PM
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[QUOTE=sonoronos;598320]Am I missing anything that I need to do the conversion?[QUOTE]



Yes, Ashcroft 24 spline half shafts & H/D drive flanges
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  #10  
Old January 12th, 2015, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Part Numbers for seals and bearings on rear axle:

Axle:
2xFTC5268G, Oil Seal - Stub Axle
2xFTC3650, Gasket - Stub Axle Rear ABS
2x Hub Oil Seal/Bearing Kit (looks like RovahFarm stocks this - includes FTC4785G, RTC3429G, FTC3179, 571752)
2xFRC8700 - Hub Lock Nuts
1) Don't use a stub axle seal. Let the oil flow to the drive splines and bearings.

2) Use an RTC3511G hub seal. They are better.

3) Get the new axle apart before finalizing your list. You may want to replace stub axle or pinion flanges if the seal surfaces are worn.
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  #11  
Old January 12th, 2015, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landy_Andy View Post
Yes, Ashcroft 24 spline half shafts & H/D drive flanges
Exactly. No point in a locker with stock shafts. The stock shafts are no stronger than 10 spline.
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  #12  
Old January 13th, 2015, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Exactly. No point in a locker with stock shafts. The stock shafts are no stronger than 10 spline.
I disagree that there's "no point". I'm planning on running stock shafts until I destroy them, which may be never, as I have a reputation for being soft on the granny pedal. Plenty of folks run lockers on stock shafts - you make it sound like the stock shafts will grenade immediately upon installation

When/if I destroy my rear shafts, I'll upgrade to HD. Not everyone is a landy andy running a twin-turbo v8 with nitrous with an underdrive
---------------
Fortunately the stubs seal surfaces look good with minor wear, so they will be reused.
---------------
I also realize that I don't know if my rear pinion is a coarse or fine spline unit, so I plan on removing the rear DS tonight in prep for the swap. I can't buy the appropriate pinion seal until this is done.
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  #13  
Old January 14th, 2015, 10:05 AM
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Ring Gear bolt question:

Apparently need 10, but the thread is mystifying:

3/8 x 1"
7/16 x 1"
M12 x 1"

Does anyone know which one is correct for an 80's RRC?

Do these need a washer?
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  #14  
Old January 14th, 2015, 10:29 AM
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you should be fine to re-use your ring gear bolts. just make sure you loctite them.

Stock shafts should be ok on 32's or 33's. With a light foot. Yes there is an increased chance of breakage with lockers. That said, I broke a ring and pinion on 33's and my halfshafts were fine.
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  #15  
Old January 14th, 2015, 03:11 PM
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My ring gear bolts for my Series vehicle are 3/8x20 and 1-1/8", my book only lists the dia and length I got the threads from a guage( 1.25 metric works too). Usually 3/8 have 16 or 24 tpi. Yours are likely the same.

Trevor has some listed; Ref: 237339 / Price $1.39 not sure of the thread.....
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  #16  
Old January 14th, 2015, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Axle:
2xFRC8700 - Hub Lock Nuts
I would skip the 2 crappy original hub nuts and go with the updated nut that comes on TD5 trucks. It's much better and doesn't come loose. p/n RFD10000

I run those on all my trucks even the Series One.
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  #17  
Old January 14th, 2015, 04:25 PM
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I heard that all the guys with later trucks are switching back to the double nut style.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ini88 View Post
I would skip the 2 crappy original hub nuts and go with the updated nut that comes on TD5 trucks. It's much better and doesn't come loose. p/n RFD10000

I run those on all my trucks even the Series One.
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  #18  
Old January 14th, 2015, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
I heard that all the guys with later trucks are switching back to the double nut style.
Pussies.
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  #19  
Old January 18th, 2015, 08:19 PM
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Thanks guys. I sent an email to Aschcrofts and got a spec of 3/8"-24 x 7/8". Shorter than I expected, but I think others go with 1" long bolts because 7/8" bolts are difficult to find.

Corroborates advice given here and elsewhere.

I ordered 10 grade 8 flange hex nuts (150ksi) 3/8"-24 x 1" and will be using these with loctite.

Service manual is the following:

http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-file...p-manual-3.pdf

Pages 130-135

Thanks for the advice, Dan. I will go with those nuts in the future. Unfortunately, I have already ordered the standard double nut style and will use those for this refresh.

Critical measures:
Pinion preload: 20-35 lbf-in (new bearings) 10-15 lb-in (old bearings)
Crown wheel runout: 0.004in
Crown wheel / pinion backlash: 0.004in to 0.007in

------ Follow up post added January 18th, 2015 08:22 PM ------

still on the search for diff bearing cap bolt torques.

Never mind. Found the following:

http://www.seriesdiesellandrover.com...esettings.html

Bevel pinion driving flange nut……………85 lbf
Crown wheel bolts…………………….40 to 45 lbf
Diff bearing cap bolts………………..50 to 65 lbf
Hub driving flange nut……………...10 to 15 lbf
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  #20  
Old February 1st, 2015, 08:39 AM
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Designed a switch panel flange for the locker switches. The front locker switch is a dummy Carling switch.
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