re-skinning doors - Defender Source
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Old February 4th, 2013, 10:38 PM
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Charles Galpin
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re-skinning doors

Here is a short description and some pictures of how to remove the door skins. These pictures are of a series door but it's almost identical on a D90 door. When I put the skins back on after paint and galvy I'll update this thread.

First you might find a tool like this one handy. One side has a hook, and the other has a C-shape that you put on the door edge. As you squueze/pry, the hooked end goes under the lip of the skin and gets it started. One started I reverted to a nice broad bry bar to complete the process.
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Next you will need to unbolt any hardware and drill out some rivets
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I put tape on the edges (double thick) to avoid scratching the surface. I suggest doing this even if painting the skins.
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Then you use the tool to start prying up the edges. Sorry I don't have any of it in action but if needed I can "pose" it on a door with the skin still on. I found it best to start on one end and slowly work your way over to the other side. Do it in progressive steps, not all at once, and only pry it up as much as needed. As I said once the edge was up, I used a broad pry bar to raise it up the rest of the way.
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Before you know it, you'll have the skins off!
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  #2  
Old February 5th, 2013, 01:32 AM
budzny
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Charles, Where can I buy those pliers?

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  #3  
Old February 5th, 2013, 07:49 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Eastwood

http://www.eastwood.com/door-skin-removal-pliers.html
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  #4  
Old February 5th, 2013, 02:31 PM
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Is this hard to do?

My door skins are in very good shape and I'd like to keep the patina look.
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  #5  
Old February 5th, 2013, 03:23 PM
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While Charles may find this a good implement, I wouldn't use it as it is too narrow. When you are bending the folds back, they are going to distort and there is nothing you can do about it. You can minimize the amount of creasing and distortion by using a wide flat pry bar. It helps if you grind/file it to a thin taper at the business end (it comes with a chisel taper) as it will help get under the fold....but not too thin, and don't make it sharp. The wider, the better IMO.
Use the frame as the fulcrum and gently push the fold outward. The longer the flat bar the easier it is to unfold due to better leverage. Don't try to unbend an area all at once or you'll foul up the skin. Work all the way around in stages until it is all bent up at least 90 degrees.
Do this on a carpet covered bench or bucks so you can push down while bending outward.
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  #6  
Old February 5th, 2013, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrc.swb View Post
Is this hard to do?

My door skins are in very good shape and I'd like to keep the patina look.
Impossibly hard. If you want to try, I can put the old/bad skins back on the d90 frames I galvied and let you remove them again. It will give me a chance to attempt the re-skinning on skins I don't care about.

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Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
While Charles may find this a good implement, I wouldn't use it as it is too narrow.
As I said I used it to get started and switched to a wide pry bar. Do you have pictures of your edges pried up? I'd be curious to see how much smoother they are. This is the first time I have done this so can't tell you what the results of mine will be yet but I am confident they will look fine.
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  #7  
Old February 5th, 2013, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post

I used the Harbor Freight $5 ones. I basically destroyed the alum skins because I have galvanized steel ones to go back on.
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  #8  
Old February 5th, 2013, 10:52 PM
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I have done this 3x. The tool is really cool but not needed. Use a pry bar to start lifting the lip. Then use a set of seaming plyers. 4" or 5" work best. You can get them at any roofing company. To re-install, Lay the door on a sheet of MDF and cover it with a moving blanket. Bend the lip back over with a block of oak and a rubber glass hammer. You don't need to do this but I like to use seam sealer from Eastwood's to (glue ) the door skin back onto the frame. I also recommend that you hot dip galvanize the frame. IMHO it's a waste of time of you don't. One piece doors are not any harder than half doors. Good luck!

Just my 2cents
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  #9  
Old February 5th, 2013, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverx View Post
I have done this 3x. The tool is really cool but not needed. Use a pry bar to start lifting the lip. Then use a set of seaming plyers. 4" or 5" work best. You can get them at any roofing company. To re-install, Lay the door on a sheet of MDF and cover it with a moving blanket. Bend the lip back over with a block of oak and a rubber glass hammer. You don't need to do this but I like to use seam sealer from Eastwood's to (glue ) the door skin back onto the frame. I also recommend that you hot dip galvanize the frame. IMHO it's a waste of time of you don't. One piece doors are not any harder than half doors. Good luck!

Just my 2cents
X2. Pry bar and then a block of hardwood and a rubber hammer. After having the frames galvanized, I used a bead of non-hardening seam sealer everywhere the skin touched the frame, then prepped for paint.
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  #10  
Old February 24th, 2013, 06:05 PM
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Just in case people don't already know........there is a company in the UK that sells the SW (half doors) with new ally skins and galvy frames. They make them from new parts that way and use epoxy to glue the skins on the frames as well.
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  #11  
Old February 24th, 2013, 11:15 PM
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IIRC the company is Ashtree

http://www.ashtreelandrover.com/
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  #12  
Old February 25th, 2013, 12:27 AM
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IIRC the company is Ashtree

http://www.ashtreelandrover.com/
And nicely done up doors based on the items we've ordered from them...
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  #13  
Old February 25th, 2013, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikojo View Post
Just in case people don't already know........there is a company in the UK that sells the SW (half doors) with new ally skins and galvy frames. They make them from new parts that way and use epoxy to glue the skins on the frames as well.
You almost had my hopes up that they were selling 2nd row half doors now.
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  #14  
Old February 25th, 2013, 09:37 AM
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After a quick scan of their site they look to be a small business and could make you up a set. I'd contact them.
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  #15  
Old February 25th, 2013, 10:42 AM
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You almost had my hopes up that they were selling 2nd row half doors now.
They can, we had a customer special order a set last year.
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  #16  
Old February 25th, 2013, 11:11 AM
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Last time I emailed them they said they would need my old doors to make a template. Guess that has changed. Will look into them now.
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  #17  
Old February 25th, 2013, 12:53 PM
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My own sense from my visit to their shop is they buy those doors from someone else. Didn't see any signs of doors being made there.
Sadly one of the half doors they shipped to me had the keyhole drilled in the wrong spot. going to have to enlarge it a bit.
Grrr.
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  #18  
Old March 1st, 2013, 03:33 PM
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Thanks for the useful thread!


P.S.
Series 2, Series 3 & Lightweight
Door bottoms which cover 129.99


Not too bad...
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