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  #1  
Old February 27th, 2015, 04:03 PM
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More Heat! Yea!

Removed the ram air covers on the wings which was restricting air flow into the heater fan...I then removed the heater outlet under the steering wheel and turned it around...now the two small holes face the foot well, and the large opening now faces up towards my chest and face...much better heat flow and in the right direction...It was almost too warm, almost!
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  #2  
Old February 27th, 2015, 04:08 PM
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now pull you heater in the spring and open up your bulkhead hole. you'll be glad you did next winter.
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Old February 27th, 2015, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
now pull you heater in the spring and open up your bulkhead hole. you'll be glad you did next winter.
Not sure your B/H heater opening can be enlarged on a R/H drive
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  #4  
Old February 27th, 2015, 04:28 PM
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Woah. Good info there. Yeah you would be cutting into the wiper motor area.


Quote:
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Not sure your B/H heater opening can be enlarged on a R/H drive
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  #5  
Old February 27th, 2015, 04:29 PM
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well that sux..
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  #6  
Old February 27th, 2015, 04:35 PM
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I like this
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  #7  
Old February 27th, 2015, 05:11 PM
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I think with heated seats I can actually use it comfortably...yet a heated steering wheel from my Rangie would be wonderful...yes a bit spoiled...
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  #8  
Old February 27th, 2015, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
now pull you heater in the spring and open up your bulkhead hole. you'll be glad you did next winter.
can you elaborate on this slightly...... its cold in boston!!!!!!!!!!!!
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  #9  
Old February 27th, 2015, 05:46 PM
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Bulkhead tread post 56 the picture shows the difference in the heater hole size, I am not of this was opened up by the owner or if some bulkheads are already like that from the factory.
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  #10  
Old February 27th, 2015, 06:01 PM
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I would have to think that it would be pretty easy to install an additional blower motor into the fresh air intake ducting before the fan.. Almost like one of those engine room venting fans that they use on boats... They put out serious flow and it doesn't need to be a lot of pressure... It also helps if you run one of the cleaner solutions through the heater matrix, they get coated with a scale that limits the heat transfer...I worked for jaguar and we would have cars coming in all the time and customers complained the heated didn't work, they had a solution we had to run through the system and then put coolant back in... Holy smokes, what a difference.. Also helps to run a hotter thermostat...
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  #11  
Old February 27th, 2015, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the rover shop View Post
I would have to think that it would be pretty easy to install an additional blower motor into the fresh air intake ducting before the fan.. Almost like one of those engine room venting fans that they use on boats... They put out serious flow and it doesn't need to be a lot of pressure... It also helps if you run one of the cleaner solutions through the heater matrix, they get coated with a scale that limits the heat transfer...I worked for jaguar and we would have cars coming in all the time and customers complained the heated didn't work, they had a solution we had to run through the system and then put coolant back in... Holy smokes, what a difference.. Also helps to run a hotter thermostat...
Do you remember the name of the cleaning solution?
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  #12  
Old February 27th, 2015, 06:37 PM
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In mine, it's the amount of airflow that needs improvement, not the air temp.
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  #13  
Old February 27th, 2015, 07:02 PM
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Interesting that you removed the Ram mount. Always surprised at how much air comes in without the fan on my kodiak equipped truck.
A bigger ram mount perhaps?
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  #14  
Old February 27th, 2015, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverman2010 View Post
Not sure your B/H heater opening can be enlarged on a R/H drive
Yeah I looked at doing that on my RHD 110, and there was no way to enlarge it. I was confused about what to cut, but then figured it was a LHD thing. I'm curious if its been done on my D90. I'd rather not cut it since its a galvanized bulkhead.
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  #15  
Old February 27th, 2015, 07:58 PM
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I couldn't bring myself to cut into the bulkhead when I pulled my heater out.
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  #16  
Old February 27th, 2015, 08:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javelinadave View Post
I couldn't bring myself to cut into the bulkhead when I pulled my heater out.
you should do it. The hole is small as a design compromise to having a bulkhead that can accomodate LHD and RHD. You don't need to stick with the compromise. Cut that yotch, throw some "don't rust on my bitch" stuff on the cut and enjoy your improved CFM!

------ Follow up post added February 27th, 2015 08:09 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by d90boy View Post
can you elaborate on this slightly...... its cold in boston!!!!!!!!!!!!
How in God's name can such an esteemed member of this forum, purveyor of 6 figure Rovers and business partner with ECR not know about this?

Seriously, I know your joking...that was a good one.
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  #17  
Old February 27th, 2015, 08:13 PM
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The big restriction is the vents in the cab. They are much smaller than the bulkhead hole. I personally do not believe opening the bulkhead with the stock heater makes any difference.

Open the lower vents in the least lose the deflectors. Make sure the fan is not binding on it's housing.
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  #18  
Old February 27th, 2015, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drdread View Post
Do you remember the name of the cleaning solution?
No.. I'll see if I can call my jag buddy..
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  #19  
Old February 27th, 2015, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
The big restriction is the vents in the cab. They are much smaller than the bulkhead hole. I personally do not believe opening the bulkhead with the stock heater makes any difference.

Open the lower vents in the least lose the deflectors. Make sure the fan is not binding on it's housing.

If you flip them around you would be surprised the amount of air being moved directly at you...and that ram air was so restrictive...
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  #20  
Old February 27th, 2015, 09:34 PM
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Now there is no reason you couldn't find a different fan with more velocity and mount it onto the existing heater box..the key would be to figure out the CFM's coming from the current fan at it's exhaust and finding one that has increased CFM...however if you push too much air thru the matrix there may not be sufficient time for the air to be heated before leaving the matrix...

Now if there was a way even in the current setup to recirculate the cabin air and not pull -2F air into the matrix and try and raise the air temp 80F...it's always going to struggle...
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