LR3 speaker install - Defender Source
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Old September 17th, 2016, 08:49 PM
Al Blue4.6l's Avatar
Al Blue4.6l
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1991 D90, 2006 LR3
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Midlothian, VA
Posts: 278
LR3 speaker install

There seem to be a number of LR3 guys here and there is very little out there on LR3 speakers. These trucks are getting older and are likely starting to need new speakers (as mine did). I therefore thought a quick install thread on what you need and how to handle tweeter placement might be helpful.

My speakers have been sounding pretty poor and the driver's side mid finally gave up the ghost last week. I did a bunch of research and, from what I can tell, the stock speakers are unfortunately 2ohm. An additional complication is that if you want to retain the stock tweeter position, you are limited to a 3/4" tweeter unless you are willing to attempt a completely custom attachment method. I decided to go with the Infinity REF6520cx ( for the fronts and the matching REF6522ix for the rear ( They are 3ohms and are therefore closer to the stock impedance rating than most speakers. That said, after installing I still have plenty of volume headroom, so 4ohm speakers may well be fine.

The only additional part you need for the install is this Scosche SAVW6 speaker bracket for the fronts:

I haven't done any sort of audio install in at least a decade and only had 12 gauge wire handy. I would recommend 16 gauge for ease of use and as that is the stock gauge.

I won't go through the door card removal as that is well documented elsewhere.

Before getting started: according to the wiring diagram, the solid green wire leading to the speakers is positive and the green wire with the stripe is negative. There is only *one* set of wires leading from the amp under the passenger's seat to each door. You therefore can attach the single set of wires from the mid to your crossover and leave the stock "tweeter" wires disconnected as they are feeding off of the same line (the stock tweeters simply have a resister wired in front of them to exclude mid/low frequency). You will connect the new tweeters directly to the crossover.


The tweeter is mounted in the plastic sail panel and comes off with the door card. Once you remove the door card you are left with this:

Simply disconnect the clip that connects to the mid and then remove the four bolts. The mid is also attached with sticky tape, but it peels off easily if you just grab a side.

It looks like my passenger mid (right) was replaced at some point as it doesn't match the other three:

Take the door card off and lay it flat (I suggest starting this project while your wife is gone and utilizing the kitchen table for maximum irritation). The tweeter is held by a bracket that is in turn held by three plastic clips which, at least on my truck, were loosely glued down.

Remove the glue and the bracket. You will be left with this:

You then need to remove the tweeter itself from the bracket - this is a bit fiddly and takes some patience with a small screwdriver. Once you get the tweeter out, put the bracket back into the sail panel.
Bracket with stock tweeter removed and new tweeter ready to go in:

I put a layer of foam tape around the tweeter to keep it firmly in the bracket:

Unfortunately that will not hold it on its own, so I also used some two part structural plastic putty to hold the tweeter to the bracket (no photo unfortunately)

You then need to decide where you want the crossover. I found this to be a good spot:

(mid placed over speaker grill for reference)

As I couldn't find anything good to attach it to, I used double sided foam tape on the back and secured it with more structural plastic putty.

While the putty is drying you can get the mid mounted.

Take the Scosche adapter, mark holes for drilling, drill holes then attach it to the door:

You then need to mount the speaker bracket that came with the speakers to the adapter:

Then you can wire up the mid and mount it:

Then clip this connector off and attach these wires to the crossover (as above, the wire with the stripe is negative):

Once the putty is dry, you can bring the door card out and hook it up (I left significant excess wire to ensure that I could attach everything with the door sitting on the ground)


The rears are much easier. You could put component speakers in the rear doors as well, but I didn't see a need as the main speaker isn't at knee level like it is up front. I therefore simply left the tweeter in each door but left them disconnected.

Remove door card:

Mark and drill for the speaker mount and then attach it:

(you will likely need to drill additional holes once it is attached as the speaker screws will be too long and need to go into the door itself)

You will again be using the green & green/yellow striped wire to power the speaker.

You can remove this handy little grommet in order to run the new wires from the speaker:

And then mount/wire the speaker:

I am very pleased with the outcome. The stereo sounds much, much better, the old stock speaker muddiness is gone, etc. As above, the speakers have plenty of volume without any issues with the stock amp. I do find the tweeters a bit bright for my taste, but that was really to be expected in a small non-silk tweeter. I turned the treble down a bit and the bass up a bit and that more or less took care of it.
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