Late model chev v6 to ZF4hp22 - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 19th, 2015, 01:23 AM
RamblerRob
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Rob Apps
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Late model chev v6 to ZF4hp22

Hey folks,

Just posting this to share some good info that I found incredibly hard to come by.

I'm using the kit from marks 4wd in aus to mate a chev 4.3 to a rover zf4hp22 autobox (yeah.. I know I know.. but its the only demand my wife made for me to go ahead with my 'midlife crisis' project)

Being the sucker for shinier newer things that I am, I went ahead and picked up a Chev V6 LU3 from a 2006 silverado. So long story short Marks kit needs a 153 tooth flywheel to fit inside the rover bellhousing. Didn't seem like it would be an issue at all as I scanned the internet and saw a enough that I wasn't worried.

The thing is, its not an issue.... as long as you have a 2002 or older engine. When I got into actually ordering the part I was coming up empty. Everything listed was for 1986 (when the rms changed to 1 piece) to 2002. Maybe its just that my google-fu is weak, but I couldn't find any information at all as to why the flywheel from an '86-2002 wouldn't fly on an '03 or later engine.

Having struck out with google I had to venture out of my internet bubble and interact with real people to find the answer. As it turns out from 2002 onward the 262 block is only set up for a stagger mounted started, thus 168 tooth flywheel only.

So heading back to google I started looking into how much trouble and how much chance of messing up the engine there is in drilling the block to accept a straight across mounting pattern to take a 153 tooth starter. While looking into that I came across this product from CSR performance:

http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...0sbp/overview/

It seems to be the only thing on the market that'll mount a 153 tooth starter into staggered holes on the block, you can also just buy the adapter part of it separately but I need the starter anyway.

I've got all the parts ordered now, so I follow up and let you all know how it goes once everything comes in about a month from now.
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  #2  
Old January 30th, 2016, 11:44 AM
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Andy
1999 D2, 1985 D100 Truggy & 1951 S1
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Sounds like you have an interesting project there, if you need any tech help drop us a PM. Bit too far to call by but do what I can to help
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  #3  
Old January 30th, 2016, 01:10 PM
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Don Bunnell
'86 110 3dr ST
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Definitely some detective work there!

I would love to see the follow up and how everything works out. That V6 to auto tranny sounds like it will work well.
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  #4  
Old January 30th, 2016, 08:58 PM
RamblerRob
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Rob Apps
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Unfortunately still waiting on the starter from summit / csr.
Eyeballing the set up one thing I question is how I'm going to fit the bottom cover plate that comes with the kit as by the looks of things the engine oil pan is going to block access to the bolts.
Today I took the bellhousing off of my transmission (along with some extra bits that I did not expect! I'm hoping I put them all back correctly and the unit still works when I get it installed!) the plan was to test fit the bellhousing and get a better feel for how it all goes together. But I wasn't able to get to it. If the bolts are not accessible I was thinking of tapping the holes in the cover plate and drilling out the m6 screw holes in the bellhousing so I can bolt it in place from the transmission side
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  #5  
Old January 30th, 2016, 09:13 PM
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Chris
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I remember John Cassidy dropping in a V6 into a RRC. Long time ago and I bet that truck is long gone.
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  #6  
Old January 30th, 2016, 09:18 PM
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John B.
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There is a guy in the lower mainland with a GM V6 in his series. Not sure if he is on here.
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  #7  
Old January 30th, 2016, 09:33 PM
RamblerRob
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Rob Apps
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Just going to drop this here as a point of reference
BMW E32 - ZF4HP22 4 - Speed automatic transmission rebuild.

I found the page helpful when I experienced a moderate amount of panic at the unexpected removal of the A clutch along with the bellhousing!
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  #8  
Old January 30th, 2016, 09:44 PM
RamblerRob
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Rob Apps
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I heard from one guy in the interior who has a GM v6 in his 110, though he went I think with the GM transmission as well. He felt it was a bit underpowered for the hilly terrain in his area but It seems like the power and torque profile is about on par with the rover 4.0 v8 so I'm optimistic it will do fine for my needs. Its still over twice the power of the engine that shipped with my truck in 1967.
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  #9  
Old January 30th, 2016, 10:02 PM
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John B.
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What are you doing for the rest of the drivetrain?
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  #10  
Old January 30th, 2016, 10:29 PM
RamblerRob
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Rob Apps
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Chev engine>zf4hp22>Lt230 1.2> Disco 1 stock axles.
Considered adding ashcroft ATB limited slip diffs but more concerned with getting everything together first.

Here is what has me scratching my head..

Not sure how I'm supposed to put in the flexplate to torque converter bolts with that tiny crack being the only space between the block and bellhousing. And this is without the flywheel installed yet.

In a rover you'd have access through the flexplate via the holes included for the purpose. In this application the GM flywheel will not have the holes and access will be blocked by the engine. I cant help but think I'm missing something
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  #11  
Old March 11th, 2016, 05:21 PM
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Rob Apps
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More updates as things slowly start moving after a lengthy delay waiting for the starter to show up from summit.

Unfortunately it looks like the starter still won't quite fit out of the box. Not a huge deal I don't think. The aluminum oil pan interferes with the location where the straight across bolt hole for the start ought to go. Seems like I will be able to notch out corner of the flange of the oil pan without cutting into the track that holds the gasket or disturbing any bolt holes. There is also a little nose that came up underneath the old starter and that may need to be nipped to give clearance to bolt in the csr stater.

In other news the crank adapter from marks 4wd was tapped with the wrong thread for the flywheel bolts. Should be m10 coarse, is actually 3/8 UNF. Just have to source an appropriate set of bolts. As far as I can find all the discos and rangies used m10 for flywheel bolts.
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  #12  
Old March 16th, 2016, 01:20 AM
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Rob Apps
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just adding pictures of the oil pan area needing to be notched out. Anyone care to weight in if they think doing so will cause problems. I could also shave a tiny bit off the adapter plate.
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  #13  
Old March 16th, 2016, 07:47 AM
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Mark Garrenton
'71 IIA 88 LS1 coiler, '84 110, +++
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I have run an earlier Vortec V6 in my '71 IIA. It was a great powerplant overall with 195hp/250lbft. The LU3 is a very reliable engine with the near failsafe later injector spider assembly and a 260lbft. of torque. Don't forget parts are readily available and at every parts store! It won't pull stumps but it is an improvement over the LR V8 (4.6 exception) or diesel engine. I'm fitting a '96 LT1 V8 (free!) into my '64 110 in the near future. To couple it it to the ZF I'm using a LS1 bellhousing ($30), a thin aluminum spacer plate between the engine and bellhousing, and a thin adapter plate (steel) between the bellhousing and ZF (drilled so the bellhousing can be removed without the pump falling out). It's all very doable and from different approach angles.
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  #14  
Old March 17th, 2016, 02:26 AM
RamblerRob
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Rob Apps
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sounds cool ez! what are you using to mate the crank to the rover torque converter? Is it a specific 'kit' or custom adapter?

I cut out my notch about 1/4" by 1" with seemingly no issues and it looks like it will fit just fine. I got a bunch of metal shavings in the oil pan and the gasket groove so i gave it a good clean and rinse and am letting it dry out before test fitting everything
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  #15  
Old March 20th, 2016, 12:15 AM
RamblerRob
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Well it didnt fit quite how I imagined it might.. I had it lined up with the holes for the 168t flywheel not the 153t which moves the starter mounting block inwards by about an inch.

With the starter mounted properly there needs to be made a fair bit more modification to the oil pan. though it should still fit without compromising the pan. The notch on the flange seems sufficient but quite a bit of structure just inwards of the starter mount needs to be cut away. I may have to remove that whole nose that sticks out under the starter in order to be able to get the bolts into it.

Luckily I don't really need any of the 'extra structure' at the back of the oil pan as the flywheel cover will be bolted to the bottom of the bellhousing and if I gibble up this oil pan replacements seem plentiful and affordable
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  #16  
Old September 27th, 2016, 03:05 AM
RamblerRob
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Rob Apps
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well I got it all mocked up and, from the fool proof "sit the whole thing beside the rover and eyeball it" method, I think it will work out ok. The camera angle is a bit off but the front most engine pulley is sitting just a couple of inches behind the front cross member and there is a few (3+/-) inches to spare at the back of the LT230 brake drum before the middle cross member. As it sits here the seat box will come down just between the two sets of 2 bolts at the base of the housing that holds the shift lever.

So yeah... might work...
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