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  #1  
Old January 21st, 2013, 05:15 PM
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Hi lift mount

Simliar to my shovel mount.... i used the same concept for a hi-lift mount.

First i got a Hi lift handle holder, one of those poly things to keep the handle from flying around. Works great, was about $15 shipped on flea bay.

Used some 1/4" thick, 1.5" wide flat bar I had and made some clamps to go around my roof rack bar. Welded a 1/2" bolt inside of 3/4" pipe, with enough thread to stick out and through the holes in the hi lift. I welded on a washer to the end as well.

Used some 5/16 Stainless steel screws to secure the clamp (i just threaded the flat bar to accept these screws).

I need to get a wing nut to replace the hex nut on the outside to make removal easier and quicker. Very secure I can use it as pull up bar and wont have any concerns bashing it agains trees, I'm very happy with it. Just sprayed on a coat of primer and paint and waiting for that to dry...., then it will be on the truck for good.

No more having to fuss with it inside my truck behind the seats!
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1967 Series IIa 109 5 Door - Work in progress
'98 Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series
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  #2  
Old January 23rd, 2013, 06:28 PM
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Looks good Adrian!
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  #3  
Old January 23rd, 2013, 11:12 PM
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William Skidmore
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I concur
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Just to be clear, i was not bragging. i was calling you a pussy. Ren Ching
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  #4  
Old January 23rd, 2013, 11:45 PM
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Jeff, how well does that hold up compared to the hot dip?
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  #5  
Old January 23rd, 2013, 11:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs

Hot dip is better. Its like a spray paint and adheres as such, but when it dries its '93% pure zinc' so its a better rust proof barrier. Its good for little things, or repairs to hot dip. Its Rover chrome in a can.

-Jeff
Would it make sense to use this as a primer?
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #6  
Old January 24th, 2013, 07:53 AM
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I've thought about it. But don't know why I haven't used it. I think I'll order a can and use it on my next project.
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1967 Series IIa 109 5 Door - Work in progress
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  #7  
Old January 24th, 2013, 09:42 AM
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Hi lift on the side = damaged roof rack, damaged tree, and the hi lift back behind the seats...good luck with that. Especially the little SS screws, they will snap the heads right off.
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  #8  
Old January 24th, 2013, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
Hi lift on the side = damaged roof rack, damaged tree, and the hi lift back behind the seats...good luck with that. Especially the little SS screws, they will snap the heads right off.
True. Even my rear mounted Hi-Lift has been tagged a few times.
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  #9  
Old January 24th, 2013, 10:27 AM
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Used to keep it on the roof rack on another truck, the couple of times I needed it, the situations I was in made it a royal pain to take off the rack......so on this truck I mounted it on the tire carrier, flipped the spare around to have more clearance. Mounting was easy, used 3/8" bolts through the carrier with spacer sleeves, the 3/8" nuts (9/16") index perfectly in the hi-lift holes...only thing I need to do is tack weld the washers to the wingnuts so I won't lose them on the trail.
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  #10  
Old January 24th, 2013, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Before you order, check your local Home Depot, mine caries it.

-Jeff
They sell it at the Lowes on 35. I know cause thats where we always buy it from.
Yes I am that guy that walks the aisles to see what is new even if im just buying a pack of light bulbs.
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Just to be clear, i was not bragging. i was calling you a pussy. Ren Ching
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  #11  
Old January 24th, 2013, 11:10 AM
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Stick the Hi lift in a Hefty Contractor garbage bag, roll it up and throw it behind the seats.
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  #12  
Old January 24th, 2013, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winn442 View Post
Used to keep it on the roof rack on another truck, the couple of times I needed it, the situations I was in made it a royal pain to take off the rack......so on this truck I mounted it on the tire carrier, flipped the spare around to have more clearance. Mounting was easy, used 3/8" bolts through the carrier with spacer sleeves, the 3/8" nuts (9/16") index perfectly in the hi-lift holes...only thing I need to do is tack weld the washers to the wingnuts so I won't lose them on the trail.
Nice and simple solution! How long are the 3/8" bolts and spacer sleeves?
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  #13  
Old January 24th, 2013, 11:49 AM
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Dan Prasada-Rao
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Nice solution and looks good too. For my money on tight wooded east coast trails it is in a very vulnerable spot.

Maybe it's just cause I cant drive but i've had the roof sides up against a lot of trees and branches. My preference would be to have it in a more protected area.
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  #14  
Old January 24th, 2013, 05:16 PM
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I thought about the location. I too have used my roof rack many times to "lean" against trees on tight trails. The good thing is in about 5 seconds I can move the mount to any other side of the rack, including the front or back. If it turns out to be an issue ill look for an alternate position.

The spacers about 3" long. Just long enough to keep the widest part of the jack (the base) Bout 1/2" away from the rack itself I did this to make sure it wouldn't rattle against the rack going down bumpy roads. The base does wiggle a little and I thought that would be reeeeeally annoying

The 1/2" bolts go all the way through the spacers and the thread stick about another 2" out. I plug welded the bolt in the 1/2" sleeve in two spots and welded the head to the spacers as well. The top of the head gave me a nice flat spot to weld to the steal bar, which gave me a good 90 degree angle


Here's some updated pictures, with stainless wing nuts, and longer stainless 5/16 bolts to secure the clamp around the bar

You can see I can easily mount this on the back of the rack if I want
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