GO-90 window felt replacement on ST door tops - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 18th, 2012, 08:50 PM
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Charles Galpin
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GO-90 window felt replacement on ST door tops

This is just a quick write up of my experience installing a new product being offered by one of our members (Paul S. / proulx70 / garrison outfitters) which is a felt lined rubber channel to replace the original felt in the windows (both the removable ST front doors as well as SW rear windows afaikt). Here is a link to the ST version

http://www.garrisonoutfitters.com/?sPath=2&prod=1

Although at the time of writing this he is offering a 10% discount to D-90 source members here:

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...980#post336980

It's fairly expensive and I haven't looked to see what plain felt would cost, but honestly it's no more expensive than a bunch of other crap I've spent money on for the truck and it really does feel like a nice upgrade.

Josh posted some pictures of the product contents here (I didn't take any of my own and I'm too lazy to copy them). It's very well packaged and pretty complete. About the only consumables you may need are clear silicone and #6 x 1/2" pan head phillips screws if you break any removing them.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...9&postcount=19

As it turns out i didn't take a whole lot of useful pictures myself but I can tell you the kit includes clear instructions.

Here is what the door catches looked when I started. You have to pry out the rubber that covers the 4 outer rivets and drill them out, as well as the rivets on the ends on the bottom rail.
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I forgot to take pictures but you need to remove the 4 philips head screws in the rail as well before you can remove the windows. You'll either want to carefully preserve the silicone between the latch assembly and the housing, as well as the rail, or clean it all off and put new silicone in when you reinstall.

Then you need to remove the felt and clean out the rails. I poured the cleaner into my rails and left them overnight and it was very easy to clean the adhesive out using this technique.
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Installing the actual product was the easiest part. This is how I soaped up the rubber before installing
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And here is a shot of the installation. I had no problems pressing it in or getting it fully snug. I didn't even use the little round disc he included to help make this easy.
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And finally, this is what the rivets looked like once done
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The windows are nice and tight after the install, but I don't see this as a bad thing. I'm sure they will loosen over time and I think I would have been disappointed if they weren't afterwards.

Things worth mentioning based on my install

1. If you are changing studs out at the same time you might as well remove the old ones first (these are bone stock tops in my case). It just makes it easier to handle the frames without the studs.
2. PB Blast the screws in the rail ahead of time just in case - I broke one and had to drill/tap it. Hardest part of the job so far. These are #6 x 1/2" pan head phillips screws if you break any removing them
3. Expect to get aluminum filings everywhere after drilling so don't try too hard to setup a clean environment at first. Use a towel or something to avoid scratching the frame while you work, but you'll need to cleanup the filings before starting to clean out the rails because the filings now become a scratch hazard.
4. As with any rover project you will spend more time cleaning and removing corrosion than anything else and it will take twice as long as expected. I probably have 2 hours in dis-assembly and cleaning. I ended up removing the studs and bottom rubber strip to remove some oxidation as well.
5. Buy silicone ahead of time if you plan on doing this in one sitting
6. Perhaps I got careless, but I managed to scratch one of the latch assembly's while riveting (when the rivet shaft snapped) so use masking tape around the rivets if you have nice tops to avoid this.

Anyway, all in all it really isn't that hard but I think Paul has gone to a lot of trouble to make it easier (or at least feel easier) to take a drill to your door tops
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  #2  
Old March 18th, 2012, 08:57 PM
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Oh, I should add I like this so much I'm going to buy another kit for my other truck's door tops. I'll try take more pictures next time.
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Old March 18th, 2012, 10:38 PM
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This I where I am stuck for tonight. I broke two drill bits on the last rivet! The 1/8" one, then a smaller one I was using to try to drill THAT ONE broke off when it hit an edge on the other bit. Screws in the channel came out easily though.
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Old March 20th, 2012, 09:52 AM
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Nice write up Charles. I redid my drivers side the other day with the V2.0 rubber and it was a TON easier to install. Garrison's rubber channel is well designed and blows away the felt crap IMO.

One thing that I loved about Garrison's product is it's packaging and documentation. Nice box, sticker, color manual with plenty of photo's, not to mention stuff like rivots, goof-off, wooden dowel and cleaning pad. Very complete kit and nicely done.

I should do my passenger side but not looking forward to getting that gunk off. But sounds like leaving it in overnight is the way to do it.
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Old March 20th, 2012, 11:15 AM
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Yeah just let it soak overnight and the bulk comes right off with a single scrape of a screwdriver. It didn't take much effort with the cleaning pad to get the remainder.
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Old March 20th, 2012, 11:19 AM
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Any other ideas on how to get that drill bit out? I tried pulling it out with pliers, drilling it out (and broke another bit in there) - no love.
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Old March 20th, 2012, 11:24 AM
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Mmh, vice grips would be my first choice there. If that fails, I think the next would be to cut/grind it flat, punch a hole on center and drill it out with a smaller bit (maybe try a reverse drill bit).

Someone was selling some latches recently - if it's a good deal you might want to snag them as a contingency. Worst case you butcher the latch base to get it out.
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Old March 20th, 2012, 11:37 AM
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New grinder just came in the mail yesterday, so may give that a try instead of the metal file, which has not been effective.
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Old March 20th, 2012, 11:42 AM
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Try vice grips first before shortening the piece you have to work with. tape around the base of the bit to avoid scratching everything up, then clamp the vice grips down as tight as possible and turn anti-clockwise.
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Old March 20th, 2012, 12:58 PM
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Drilling out a drill bit with another drill bit is probably not going to work. Two very hard brittle metals don't play well together. Try to pull it out the front if you can. If that doesn't work you could try a center punch to push it out the other side. Or just try to get the other rivets out and work the troubled one out when the piece is free.
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Old March 20th, 2012, 02:25 PM
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Try vice grips like Charles and Jeff said. Tighten them as much as possible and see if that works.

I'd give it a bit of a blow with a hammer then try again if it doesn't work. Do you have an air supply? Blow in there to get any metal pieces of drill bit out. One of them might be catching.

Like Jeff said 2 hard brittle metals don't play well - just makes more of a mess. I've found the best way to get drill bits out is a punch and beat the shit out of them. And clear with air every few hits.

Once you get the bits out and if you've gotten the drill bit in pretty far before they broke I'd use a punch to get the rest out. Do you have a Dremel? There might be a pointed grinder attachment that will grind enough rivot material away.
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Old March 20th, 2012, 04:23 PM
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He can't get to it from behind, although possibly you could have the clearance to punch it through into the cavity, but be careful of damaging the door top frame. If the head of the rivet was already cut you might be able to pry the latch assembly up over the bit - use a nice wide prying device like a thick scraper and start on the bottom left corner and see if it starts coming up. Again, I say be careful not to damage the frame as the latch is cheaper/easier to replace if it comes to that.
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Old March 21st, 2012, 09:27 AM
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The little buggers are recessed so I think drilling is the best option in this case (when starting). But maybe a chisel is a good idea at this point to dislodge the bit. Any progress to report Josh?
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Old March 21st, 2012, 09:32 AM
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I'm going out during lunch to buy another vice grip, as mine is in the garage, and the door top is on the rug in my apt. Also buying a punch and a chisel as good-to-haves. Ah the awesomeness of having my car in Hoboken and my place in NYC...grrr.
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Old March 21st, 2012, 10:22 AM
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If your smaller bit is buried deep enough you could take a bigger bit, like 3/8 or whatever that recessed hole is, and drill out the whole head to remove the latch.
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Old March 21st, 2012, 06:39 PM
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Some progress. True the vice grip on the bit, hadn't I tightened enough and it snappe the bit. Haha. Took a 1/4" punch to it, and it went down a bit. It was the silicone holding the door closed at this point, so I took a thin chisel and went in a quarter inch and pried it open one corner at a time and saved the silicone seal around the perimeter.

Can someone confirm how the little lock where my index finger is, is supposed to be? It fell out when I lifted the door up, and this is how I put it in. Off to the doctors. More progress later I hope.
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Old March 21st, 2012, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Can someone confirm how the little lock where my index finger is, is supposed to be? It fell out when I lifted the door up, and this is how I put it in.
Pull the other and compare, and if that falls out too I'll open one up to see if you need it. But it just needs to be positioned so that when the lever is up and parallel to the bottom of the door top, the "hammer" is pushed up/out.
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Old March 21st, 2012, 09:33 PM
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Uh....don't use a wood chisel. Use a cold chisel or a cape chisel.

-Jeff
I tried. I didn't want a wood chisel either, but this was all the hardware store had here. Most of the hardware stores here are glorified locksmiths, as keys and locks are where they make most of their money. I was careful though, so it was fine. They didn't even have a narrow spacker that I could have bought just to break the seal on the silicone.

------ Follow up post added March 21st, 2012 09:39 PM ------

Charles you're going to laugh, but I've never been able to get the driver's side door top off. I have tried many many tricks (seriously everything) and it will not budge. There are no nuts on them anymore and they sealed against the gutter kit way better than this door top WITH the nuts down and everything. The driver's side doesn't even rattle or shake - it's in there tight for whatever reason.

So in short. The one I'm working on is in my living room and the other one is on the door of the truck. haha.
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Old March 21st, 2012, 09:44 PM
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Mine looks like this
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Old March 21st, 2012, 09:47 PM
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Awesome thanks, Jeff. I wanted to make sure which way that faced, and if it rested up against that screw like that!
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