Gas Tank Removal - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 1st, 2010, 06:38 PM
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Gas Tank Removal

I started a small project this weekend that seems to be getting out of hand. I want to POR 15 my rear cross member so I took off the rear step bumper on my 97 NAS and then tackled the gas tank skid plate. Unfortunately I sheared three bolt heads off in the process. I have the gas tank supported by straps to the frame for now, but I want to drop it completely so I can access the entire cross member.

1) My tech manual states I need part number LRT-19-002 to disconnect a fuel line. Is this a tool I should buy or is there another method to clearing all the lines from the tank so I can remove it completely.

2) How do you remove the gas filler neck. I was being gentle with it as not to screw up the gasket or paint.

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old August 1st, 2010, 08:55 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Robert, you don't need any special tools to disconnect the fuel lines, but you should soak them in pb blaster before trying to undo them. If you lower the tank slightly you'll have access to the top of the tank and can undo the lines there.

You can just undo the clamps on the filler hose and leave the filler neck in place in the body.

Careful with the vent lines as well as they are brittle.

hth
charles
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  #3  
Old August 1st, 2010, 10:51 PM
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I know a guy that has some great alloy skid plates while your in there.....

But you are one lucky guy if the bolts all come out without snapping off.
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  #4  
Old August 1st, 2010, 11:44 PM
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Charles,
Thanks for the info. My fuel tank cradle has some rust, but it isn't terminal. I think it will look fine after some media blasting and painting. I thought of purchasing a galvanized one but they go for $300 at RN. Since the one I have still has alot of life left in it, I thought about trying to get it galvanized prior to reinstalling. I thought I saw you comment on previous threads about taking parts somewhere to get galvanized. Can you recommend a place here in the DC/MD/NOVA area?
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  #5  
Old August 2nd, 2010, 10:12 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Rob, I replied to your PMs, the gist being that galvanizing is not cost effective for the skid, but suggest you post a picture of the stock skid here for opinions. I recommend getting a heavy duty one, but would like to see what yours looks like.
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  #6  
Old August 2nd, 2010, 10:45 AM
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If you install an Equipe skid you won't have to worry about those broken original bolts as you'll need to drill some new ones anyways! Sorry, had to chime in and am still a little annoyed about that process.

Side note, Rob I went through this process about a month and a half ago but mine was for a rusted out skid plate. Like Charles I would recommend swapping in something with a little more beef while you're there but then, if yours is clean and you don't plan to take your truck in the woods you may be okay. On the fuel lines I soaked mine over night and then used two wrenches (line wrench on one of the fittings) and if I remember correctly I actually had to use 9/16" wrenches. I would also recommend picking up a pack rubber plugs and to close the end of the lines while you are doing any cleaning/painting. Something else that is a good idea while you are in there is adding backing plate with welded nuts behind the bolt holes in the rear crossmember in case you ever want to add a hitch or other type of recovery point.
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  #7  
Old August 2nd, 2010, 10:52 AM
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Let me add that I don't think the equipe skid is a good choice after seeing Jeff's. It is made for ROW trucks and does not fit without modifications, which get extensive if you want to use your NAS bumper for example. If it was half the cost I'd say maybe, but just get something that is made for a NAS IMO
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Old August 2nd, 2010, 11:44 AM
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Thanks for the advice Jeff. I don't want to make any modifications so I will either reuse the OEM one or purchase a new galvanized one. Here are a few pics of the fuel tank skid plate. It is still really solid so I am thinking after some wire wheeling/sanding that I should be able to POR 15 it. Otherwise I would like to find a local place to galvanize it, but who knows how much that would cost (a new one is $300) and I could POR15 it for $20.

Also attached is a scanned copy of the manual that states (Step 7) I need a special LR tool to disconnect the fuel vapor separator. Any experience with disconnecting this hose? Do I really need the tool?
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  #9  
Old August 2nd, 2010, 12:17 PM
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The plastic lines you are talking about separating just pulled out of the fitting on my tank (rear driver's corner of the tank)...I thought you were talking about the fuel lines! Don't know if there is a difference between your '97 and my '94 though

Charles, you forgot to mention that I made the Equipe look sweet!
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  #10  
Old August 2nd, 2010, 02:04 PM
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I have perfect fit alumium skid plates for $175.00 shipped if you need one. Several on the board have them.

Link to the listing is here.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=25399
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  #11  
Old August 2nd, 2010, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gas-man View Post
1) My tech manual states I need part number LRT-19-002 to disconnect a fuel line. Is this a tool I should buy or is there another method to clearing all the lines from the tank so I can remove it completely.
Not sure if you figured this out already but I made a tool that disconnects these very easily. It's just a piece of wire coat hanger, about 6" long, bent into a narrow "U" shape. Just press the ends of hanger wire into the holes on that green disconnect and it will come right off. You don't need the tool to reconnect, just press the line back in and it stays.

I have the safarirover aluminum skid and it's great. I had it powder coated semi-gloss black. I'll post some pictures soon.
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  #12  
Old August 2nd, 2010, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jefhuf View Post
Charles, you forgot to mention that I made the Equipe look sweet!
Yes you did a great job making it fit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gas-man View Post
Here are a few pics of the fuel tank skid plate. It is still really solid so I am thinking after some wire wheeling/sanding that I should be able to POR 15 it. Otherwise I would like to find a local place to galvanize it, but who knows how much that would cost (a new one is $300) and I could POR15 it for $20.
Your's looks good. If you are not planning on wheeling the truck, POR it and be done. You can't galvanize it cheaper than a new one, but I'd get one of Peter's before one of those.
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  #13  
Old August 2nd, 2010, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by safarirover View Post
I have perfect fit alumium skid plates for $175.00 shipped if you need one. Several on the board have them.

Link to the listing is here.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=25399

I picked up one of these when I thought I needed a new fuelpump. Nice piece.

Check out the pics on my site: http://defconfour.unionstreetbikes.c...vel=album&id=7

Instead of going thru the whole gallery - here is one of the pics I took with the Safari Rover guard installed: http://defconfour.unionstreetbikes.c...oy_skid_01.jpg
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  #14  
Old August 3rd, 2010, 01:56 AM
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Looks good. Is the paint you used por15 and then the chassis coat?
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  #15  
Old August 3rd, 2010, 04:56 PM
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Chris,
Thanks for the advice on hanger wire adn the 9/16 wrenches for the fuel lines.
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  #16  
Old August 3rd, 2010, 05:25 PM
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Corroded Fuel Lines

The fittings on my fuel lines are corroded badly. I searched the net for replacement lines but all i found were the union nut and something called an olive for sale. i think I need some parts in addition to the to above but not sure what or where to find them. Any tips?
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  #17  
Old August 3rd, 2010, 07:59 PM
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I just saw a thread the other day about these, but don't recall the outcome. Otherwise soak them in pb blaster for a few days and see how they look after you wire wheel them and then undo them - maybe they are salvageable. You'll see what the olive is once you undo it. The nut just slides on the tube and the olive provides the seal.
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  #18  
Old August 3rd, 2010, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gas-man View Post
The fittings on my fuel lines are corroded badly. I searched the net for replacement lines but all i found were the union nut and something called an olive for sale. i think I need some parts in addition to the to above but not sure what or where to find them. Any tips?
http://www.eastcoastrover.com/DefenderSSpipes.html

Anybody used the ECR lines??
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  #19  
Old August 3rd, 2010, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
I just saw a thread the other day about these, but don't recall the outcome. Otherwise soak them in pb blaster for a few days and see how they look after you wire wheel them and then undo them - maybe they are salvageable. You'll see what the olive is once you undo it. The nut just slides on the tube and the olive provides the seal.
If you cant get them off would you have to start with a new fuel pump or would you cut the old lines?
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  #20  
Old August 4th, 2010, 07:36 AM
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Worst case you could cut/split the nut with a dremel and not ruin the pump lines but given what a PITA it is to get to, I'd just replace the pump if you have any doubts about any of it.
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