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  #21  
Old December 18th, 2013, 01:22 AM
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Andy
1999 D2, 1985 D100 Truggy & 1951 S1
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Go the control box today for the A/C unit... connected up and.... man does it move some air for such a small unit. Checked the Spal fan spec and at max output it's making over 300cfm, the flow from the defrost outlets is very good. I can see I'm going to be rather roasty toasty come next winter
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  #22  
Old December 19th, 2013, 12:13 AM
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Andy, when you made the instrument panel pictured in the first photo, did you draw it up in CAD and have it cut with a water jet or similar?

I'm thinking about having a replacement panel made for my center-of-dash NATO convoy light switch. I want to mount an Auber digital EGT+boost gauge but I want to keep the truck looking as original and military as possible. I was thinking about a replacement panel that moved the light switch towards the edge, freeing up space for the Auber gauge. I haven't done much metal fabrication so I'm not sure where to start.
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  #23  
Old December 19th, 2013, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
Andy, when you made the instrument panel pictured in the first photo, did you draw it up in CAD and have it cut with a water jet or similar?
Hi Chris,

The dash in the first pic is the Lara Croft Tomb Raider truck... was built by LR Special Vehicles I believe.

I'm currently using Solidworks 3D cad for my projects but in the past have used Autocad. I get my parts water jet cut now as that's the only local option (still 2hrs away), in the past when I lived in the UK I had access to 3 laser cutting & 4 powder coaters within 30mins from home...
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  #24  
Old December 21st, 2013, 12:42 PM
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1999 D2, 1985 D100 Truggy & 1951 S1
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First dash part modelled, new demist mounting bracket that fit's into the dash top crash pad. It's very simple but working on these is getting me the hang of driving Solidworks, still need to finish off the holes for the demist vent but they've not arrived yet (can't see them being here until after the new year now).

So, onto the next piece....

If anyone sees a demist vent that's ~10" wide, ~1/2" wide at the opening has a 2" pipe connection and is vertically stubby (~3-4") shout out... the ones from T7 are the best I've found to date so will have to see how they perform once it's all hooked up.
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  #25  
Old December 21st, 2013, 12:43 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Nice!

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  #26  
Old January 4th, 2014, 06:54 PM
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Got my first batch of cut parts back today... turned out OK





Can now continue with the rest of the dash design, think I'm going to model the bulkhead where the dash mounts first & then go from there. Will also make this one out of 16g steel as I can weld it here, or it might get bolted together.... not sure yet.
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  #27  
Old January 5th, 2014, 11:31 AM
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Spent a few hours playing with Solidworks... and have the beginnings of the bulkhead model done. Back at it


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  #28  
Old January 5th, 2014, 11:35 AM
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This looks good. I will definitely be interested in the finished product.
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  #29  
Old January 5th, 2014, 11:44 AM
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Thanks... biggest problem I have is that we don't have a fab shop in town with a press brake, nearest is 2hrs drive away so will be making the dash in parts that I can bend on my box/pan bender. For the first will deff screw it together rather than weld...

However, does mean it's easy (and cheaper) to replicate.... umm Ikea dash in a box
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  #30  
Old January 5th, 2014, 12:32 PM
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The bronco guys have been making these for years for their projects. Plenty of good companies that can make your finished dash after you get everything sorted. Have you thought about different gauges etc...? Dakota Digital has some good products to update your dash and make plugin in that new engine much easier.
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  #31  
Old January 5th, 2014, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archbronco View Post
The bronco guys have been making these for years for their projects. Plenty of good companies that can make your finished dash after you get everything sorted. Have you thought about different gauges etc...? Dakota Digital has some good products to update your dash and make plugin in that new engine much easier.
I already have a full set of VDO instruments in the RHD instrument binnacle and am working on making it out of all RHD and existing parts too. I can see the supply of LHD parts drying up at some point (in the near future) and if someone wanted a LHD dash that's not OEM with A/C ... then... we have an opportunity

If that were the case I'd prob get it made out, for this one.... not worth it as the truck will spend 90% of the time in the woods & on the trails...
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  #32  
Old January 7th, 2014, 11:14 PM
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Bit more progress... got some more of the bulkhead & top dash pad roughly modelled, need some external radius gauges to finish it off. Started on the drivers side sheet metal... will add a space envelope for the heater next & then do basic metal work for the passenger side.


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  #33  
Old January 10th, 2014, 02:07 AM
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Added in the space envelope for the HVAC unit & the passenger side dash front panel. Need to do a test strip to check the front panel bends & then can look to get the drivers side cut.


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  #34  
Old January 11th, 2014, 11:04 PM
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Slow & steady progress.... have added a radio DIN cut out, front vents & heater controls now. Struggling to make space for the original bulkhead vent openers.... any ideas on a good way to open & close them using existing parts ?


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  #35  
Old January 12th, 2014, 12:25 PM
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Thanks Jeff, unfortunately they won't fit either.... need to come up with a solution that moves the lever from being directly in front of the flap actuator arm. Was thinking I could repurpose the old duel heater control levers & cables. Need to see if they have enough movement & can latch the flaps closed enough.
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  #36  
Old January 12th, 2014, 12:40 PM
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That's a pretty keen idea JS. The levers are a definite weakness in the setup.
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  #37  
Old January 12th, 2014, 01:36 PM
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The other option I've been toying with, is to secure the flaps closed as once the dash is all fitted you'll have to run the fan to get the fresh air into the cab. Will also keep the inside of the dash a bit more dust & dirt free.


I can put a fresh air duct/fan in from the wing top/side through the old heater duct hole in the bulkhead. Would only need another 3 speed switch & 2 more vent's in the lower dash area. With the fan off & the vent's closed it should keep the cold air out in winter but with the vents being in the bottom of the dash you wouldn't get cool air directly into your face but we have aircon for that now.
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  #38  
Old January 12th, 2014, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Keep in mind the NAS 110's and the Puma dash trucks dont have scuttle vents.

-Jeff

Umm... but NAS 110's are already LHD & have A/C correct ? and by the time a Puma gets imported legally there will be plenty of LHD ones from Europe. Was thinking more towards the current RHD imports from the UK. That's why I didn't want to use any LHD dash parts in the conversion. Not directly looking to put a DIY dash kit together to sell but might as well leave that option open, am sure there would be a few takers on here to make a short production run worth while.


My only real concern then would be how much heat/cool the HVAC unit would put out for a 110 SW, I can see it being more than adequate in my truck cab but without fitting one into a 110 couldn't be sure.
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  #39  
Old January 12th, 2014, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
I did see this crazy set up that uses levers, but it eats alot of space.

-Jeff

They look like there extensions added onto the existing levers..... That dash appears to be just a front panel & top pod. Few too many breakers for my liking
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  #40  
Old January 12th, 2014, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landy_Andy View Post
Was thinking I could repurpose the old duel heater control levers & cables. Need to see if they have enough movement & can latch the flaps closed enough.

Just enough room on RHS of instrument binnacle to get the duel lever heater control in against the central cover section, so have added it. Will draw up a bowden cable mounting bracket for the vent flap end next & test it out. If that works OK the old RHD heater cables should be long enough to do both flaps. Will just need a used vent control to salvage a couple of cable grips & screws. Should make a nice 'OEM' looking install if it works
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