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  #41  
Old November 14th, 2012, 01:13 PM
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Shep29
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KS
'95 RRC LWB
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That came out good!
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'95 RRC LWB Aspen Silver
'86 110 SW Conniston Green - SOLD
'95 D90 ST Beluga Black - SOLD
'96 D1 SE7 Willow Green - SOLD
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  #42  
Old November 14th, 2012, 01:28 PM
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evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
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Spray the inside with waxoyl now. especially get the seam where the two pieces overlap.
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  #43  
Old November 14th, 2012, 01:33 PM
Lrd90
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Anthony
95 Defender 90 (SOLD)
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I did use Waxoyl on all bolts and Por 15 on frame.
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  #44  
Old November 14th, 2012, 02:01 PM
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evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lrd90 View Post
I did use Waxoyl on all bolts and Por 15 on frame.
Put waxoyl on the frame too. Mainly the inside of the crossmember where the tires kick up stone and mud and where the two peices of metal along the bottom edge of the crossmember are.
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  #45  
Old November 14th, 2012, 02:22 PM
Lrd90
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Anthony
95 Defender 90 (SOLD)
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waxoyl only on bolts. using Por15 paint on entire frame.
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  #46  
Old November 30th, 2012, 07:48 PM
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John Lindsay
1986 Land Rover 90, 3.9Efi
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A chap over here in the UK built his own rear cross member from some think like 6mm plate, welded in crush tubes and welded on caps to the end of his chassis and then bolted the cross member on. I cant remember if he galvanized it or not but he could unbolt it for repairs and painting etc if required.... Just a little idea to throw into the mix...
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  #47  
Old November 30th, 2012, 08:26 PM
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Michael Dickin
1986 110 Tithonus - Now Sadly Sold
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New galv won't take paint well at all, due to the shiny surface, the paint will peal off in sheets. In the UK, where replacing the chassis with a new galv one has been common for a a couple of decades now most folks want to hide the fact that the chassis is galv as it makes the land rover an obvious target for thieves. To get paint to stick to new glav first it need to be dulled with an acid solution, then washed copiously (the otherwise the acid keeps eating the galv, then etch primed and finally painted with a paint chemically compatible to the primer. The other way is to leave the galv exposed for a year or so and let the weather do its stuff and the oxide layer form on the zinc, which will take paint much better.
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