Cosmetics on my 130CC - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old July 25th, 2014, 02:09 PM
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Kurt Ohlendorf
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Supporting the gearbox without a second box lifter

Well, there are different constructions on the road.
My 1997 LR has a subframe to support the rear part of the engine with the mounted gearboxes.

If the subframe has been removed, something else has to support the weight.

Why not use this one?













Parts





While on successful duty:







------ Follow up post added July 25th, 2014 12:18 PM ------

Don't know if necessary but just build them!
You will need the front stabalizer or something else mounted to the frame too.













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  #22  
Old July 25th, 2014, 02:31 PM
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Kurt Ohlendorf
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How to change the timing belt the easy way (300tdi)

Main problem:



How to fasten the connecting rod while loosen or tightening the small end screw?

I use these handcrafted tools:



Don't want to remove the cooler and the coolant.
I use a homemade flat spanner to loose the fan (lefthand thread!)
A cut devides the fan housing, so it's almost easy to remove.





An old spanner is used to release the belt's tension. It will wait there until the prozedure is finished.



Timing the pump:



Timing the flywheel:



Remembering the location of the bolts:



Fixing tool to fasten this bolt:



Timing wheel remover:



Setting die for the seal:



Very important tool:



It will take some time to have a look at this:



All you need is this:



And the time to climb



Easy doing:









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  #23  
Old July 25th, 2014, 02:33 PM
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Amazing as usual. I have a floor jack bracket to hold an lt230 that I bought off ebay UK years ago. It pales when compared to yours as it has no adjustments. Your locating pins/dowels would eliminate any possibility of screwing up the input shaft seal. Nicely done as always Kurt.

There is something odd about a German engineer who is into land rovers but we certainly understand.
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  #24  
Old July 25th, 2014, 03:55 PM
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Kurt Ohlendorf
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Thanks Doug!
Well, the messures of the to be welded floor thing is offered in every manual.
I just calculated the point underneth the COG and tried to find a solution. And it was easy!
I like to handle things easier even when heavy, expensive parts need a little maintenance ore I ran out of crimped fingers / arms when trying to put parts together.

So Land Rover is my car for sure!
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  #25  
Old July 25th, 2014, 04:06 PM
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Oh my God, I'm in love with the t-case Jack adapter. I would pay happily pay you €€€ to make me one...

The fact you painted it up with Hammerstein is awesome too - it looks just like it should!
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  #26  
Old July 25th, 2014, 04:14 PM
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Supporting an automatic gearbox (ZF 4HP-22)

Will do the swap during my holydays.

Just one week to go!



Needed parts are at home, still waiting for the job.















COG should be above the small round steel.









Only a short step to open the design to remove the R380 gearbox!





Both of the two ready to go:











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  #27  
Old July 25th, 2014, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC View Post
Oh my God, I'm in love with the t-case Jack adapter. I would pay happily pay you €€€ to make me one...

The fact you painted it up with Hammerstein is awesome too - it looks just like it should!
Thanks Jim!
Need the outer diameter of your box lifter and the inner diameter of your shunter lifter* for matching my item. Both are useful and usuable.

* didn't find any other translation for "Rangierwagenheber"



The paint is available in bottles, ready to spray at every OBI market. It's called Hammerschlag Reseda grün. About 11€ each. You will need the paint to keep the tool shiny.

But I'll need some time to do it!
Just keep the line.
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  #28  
Old July 25th, 2014, 05:21 PM
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Slightly wider brake pedal

I used a rubber cover out of a Mecerdes Benz W123. Wellknown at every junk yard all over the place. Sometimes they are as new.

The original sheet of metal has to be cut about 1/4" in hight and needs about 3/8" in width.
That's it!

Easy to do! Do it!











But I'm pondering about this greasing point. You cant reach it if assembled.
Hmm? Any ideas?

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  #29  
Old July 25th, 2014, 06:18 PM
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Rocksliders

It's not a breathtaking job to do it my way.
But I was not sure about the differences between left and right.
So I did it step by step. That's the boring way!



First point at the bulkheadscrew





First and second outrigger









Rear point to the bolt on crossmember



And an additional solded point to the bulkhead ( ok, thats me)







Getting the part into design







Drilling holes into long things sometimes drives you crazy





Well, left to right was a difference of about less than 1/32". Just like nothing!





But it was a hard deal to get the parts in the right position every time and welded step by step.





The welcomed cui should hold the pressure of the compressed air.

That was plan A.

------ Follow up post added July 25th, 2014 04:23 PM ------

Plan B

























Forgot to mention:

This small thing has to be tightened otherwise:











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  #30  
Old July 25th, 2014, 06:24 PM
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A backing plate for the bolts on the outriggers would not be a bad idea in my opinion. Really nice work! I'm loving the transmission support. Much more elegant than a floor jack with a block of wood on it.
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  #31  
Old July 26th, 2014, 04:03 PM
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wow Kurt, I'm speechless. i just showed your pictures to my wife and she said, why can't you just do that to yours? i'm going to get a drink now.
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  #32  
Old July 26th, 2014, 04:41 PM
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Looking forward to your auto conversion Kurt.
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  #33  
Old July 26th, 2014, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rankar View Post
wow Kurt, I'm speechless. i just showed your pictures to my wife and she said, why can't you just do that to yours? i'm going to get a drink now.
Hmmm, don't tell the wife!
Cherio!

------ Follow up post added July 26th, 2014 03:30 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
A backing plate for the bolts on the outriggers would not be a bad idea in my opinion.
Well, these points are the weakest, that's right.
But I think it's better the front breaks out than bend the complete outrigger?
Time will tell.

------ Follow up post added July 26th, 2014 03:30 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
Looking forward to your auto conversion Kurt.
Me too!
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  #34  
Old July 26th, 2014, 06:03 PM
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Front Protector

A friend gave me these massiv sheets of steel.



Brackets mounted to the frame





Additional flat steel to keep the femal threads



Done





Mounted to the frame





To whom it might concern: you may have a look through the left bracket to the VIN!!!
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  #35  
Old July 26th, 2014, 06:17 PM
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Some small parts

Spring loaded front bumper pin holder





Fixing point for the rear door catcher to alowe 90° opening













HiLift adopter



















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  #36  
Old July 26th, 2014, 06:41 PM
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Kurt Ohlendorf
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90° will do it.
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  #37  
Old July 27th, 2014, 04:35 PM
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Wow, I love all the custom tools and details. But most of all, I love that you consider all of this "cosmetic". LOL
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  #38  
Old July 28th, 2014, 06:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
But most of all, I love that you consider all of this "cosmetic". LOL
funny, I was just thinking the same thing.

everything is beautiful. a well loved rover.
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  #39  
Old July 28th, 2014, 04:09 PM
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Kurt Ohlendorf
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Why cosmetics

Well, the Home Security Agency here is called TÜV.
Ok, that's not the quite right translation, but it is a hindrance!
Its a technical surveillance agency that will have a look at all vehicles every second year.

If they say no, it's like no shoes, no shirt, no service! You are out of the game!

So all I made is just cosmetics to the rules of what can be done in Germany.
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  #40  
Old July 28th, 2014, 05:51 PM
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Aah yes, the more I think about it they definitely look cosmetic to me too
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