Chassis rust removal and protection - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 15th, 2014, 05:59 PM
Hache
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Henry Lambert
1983 Ex-MOD 90 2.5N/A
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Chassis rust removal and protection

I'm shipping an ex mod 1987 LHD 90 over with help from Abe and Doug. The chassis has a bit of surface rust that I want to remove and then protect. My instinct is to sand blast and then waxoyl but I'm worried that sandblasting might do more damage than good - the truck will still be attached to the chassis. Has anyone done something similar? I searched the the forums but nothing turned up.
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  #2  
Old March 15th, 2014, 06:03 PM
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Henry Lambert
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  #3  
Old March 15th, 2014, 06:14 PM
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I would not sandblast a chassis unless it's removed from the truck.

My advice would be to remove what you can with a drill and wire brush attachment, then etch and paint with Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black. This is a pain in the ass to do with the body on the truck and you'll probably miss tons of spots. Best do it right and strip the truck down to bare chassis. It's not that hard.
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  #4  
Old March 15th, 2014, 06:28 PM
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Henry Lambert
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Stripping it down scares me from a technical and time point of view. If I was going to strip it down I think id rather go the whole hog and get a galvy chassis.
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  #5  
Old March 15th, 2014, 07:42 PM
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Since you live in Portland, you should come up to Tacoma and check out my galvy project. We're working on it next weekend.

It's not that bad of a project if you aren't repainting.
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  #6  
Old March 15th, 2014, 07:52 PM
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Paul Kennington
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+1 for replacing the chassis. Rust never sleeps, and Portland is not a good climate for a truck with rust. If it's not too bad, you may be able to have your existing chassis galvanized?
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  #7  
Old March 15th, 2014, 08:41 PM
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Henry Lambert
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The truck is shipping to Tacoma so when it arrives I'll let you know and pop by.
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  #8  
Old March 15th, 2014, 08:42 PM
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Ben Little is having his chassis blasted and galvanized. I think it's a great option if you have only surface rust.
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  #9  
Old March 15th, 2014, 09:08 PM
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It depends a lot on how much you will use it and if you will use it in the winter.... For most people, cleaning the areas, using a rust converter and pointing is fine. Some Rustoil or similar on the inside as much as possible. The worst rust is always from the inside.
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  #10  
Old March 16th, 2014, 12:29 PM
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Henry Lambert
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I'll be using it twice a week most of the year. Sad thing is it literally won't fit through our garage door so it'll be outside year round. When you say rust oil on the inside do you mean drilling a hole in the chassis and squirting it in?
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  #11  
Old March 16th, 2014, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hache View Post
I'll be using it twice a week most of the year. Sad thing is it literally won't fit through our garage door so it'll be outside year round. When you say rust oil on the inside do you mean drilling a hole in the chassis and squirting it in?
There are a few drain holes in the chassis already - no need to drill new ones (with one exception I can think of)

The box frame collects sediment/dust/dirt and creates a slurry when wet. The slurry acts as a polishing/cutting paste and opens up fresh metal to be eaten by rust. Regular and frequent cleaning and coating the inside of the box helps to slow the process.

Let me know when you are up this way, you are welcomed to come by the shop.

And unfortunately a few peoples opinions say that being stored outside in the PNW is a sure way to accelerate the rot and rust problems due to the high humidity.

Brian
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  #12  
Old March 17th, 2014, 04:29 PM
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Henry Lambert
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thanks Brian. I'll come by with the truck when it arrives.
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  #13  
Old March 18th, 2014, 06:20 PM
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I imported a 110 last year:


Drove it home from Long Beach to Utah:


Initially I stripped it down to the frame and bulkhead and was going to do as you are describing. But, I didn't want to half-ass it:


So, I kept going:


Blasted the chassis and many other parts:


Galvanized the chassis and all the other blasted parts:
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  #14  
Old March 18th, 2014, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben little View Post
Galvanized the chassis and all the other blasted parts:

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  #15  
Old March 18th, 2014, 08:17 PM
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Henry Lambert
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now you're just making me feel bad.Looks like you did a great job. How long did it all take to strip, galvanize and rebuild?
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  #16  
Old March 18th, 2014, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hache View Post
now you're just making me feel bad.Looks like you did a great job. How long did it all take to strip, galvanize and rebuild?
Thanks. We'll I started tearing it down in October and had a kitchen accident that required surgery on one of my hands. So, I didn't start again until late Jan, early Feb. I picked up my galvy chassis and bits today, actually.

Next I'll build up a roller with all new suspension, bushings and hardware. New brakes f/r, hard lines etc. I expect to have a full roller in two weeks because I'm waiting on some parts and because I'm kinda slow.

Don't feel bad. This is not a task for the faint of heart. Your truck may not need this... Mine did.
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  #17  
Old March 25th, 2014, 08:34 PM
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John Lindsay
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How did you get on hot dipping an old chassis? There has just been a write up in LRM saying that it's not a good idea to galvanise an old chassis. They recommend waxoyl injection instead...
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  #18  
Old March 25th, 2014, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by landrovermanuk View Post
How did you get on hot dipping an old chassis? There has just been a write up in LRM saying that it's not a good idea to galvanise an old chassis. They recommend waxoyl injection instead...
Waxoyl is an advertiser, galvanizer are not.
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  #19  
Old March 26th, 2014, 09:12 PM
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John Lindsay
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I understand that and realise that these companies pay for articles to be written.
However what they said made sense. They said that patches on the chassis can trap air which expands when heated by the zinc distorting or blowing a hole in the chassis. Secondly unless the chassis has been chemically dipped it could still have rust or dirt inside the rails...
If it works ok I would consider doing mine as it needs a rear crossmember but the rest is good and a chap close by builds the crossmember out of 6 mm steel and I love the idea of such a strong tow point.... John
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  #20  
Old March 26th, 2014, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by landrovermanuk View Post
They said that patches on the chassis can trap air which expands when heated by the zinc distorting or blowing a hole in the chassis.
Unlikely. I'm not sure where you got this information, but it's not true.

Quote:
Originally Posted by landrovermanuk View Post
Secondly unless the chassis has been chemically dipped it could still have rust or dirt inside the rails...
All hot dip galvanizing uses a hot acid bath, in addition to several other prep steps. In reality, it's probably more effective than chem dip, as it also burns out everything that the prep didn't catch.

Having galvanized my old frame and also seen first hand what hot-dip galvanizing facilities do for prep I can say that the LRM article is probably wrong.
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