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  #1  
Old February 1st, 2016, 09:20 PM
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Robert Lynch
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Car camping trailer...

Im going to put this here instead of on expo...

It's not going to be an expo trailer.. More of a trailer I can take to events and camping with my daughters...
Since I have a d90 I needed the room to take them both and dale and I struck a deal on this.. So there you go as far as back ground..


It's a 1968 M101a1 trailer with a u body contractor top.. Which gives it barn doors and 2 full wing side doors.. Good base to start with...
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  #2  
Old February 1st, 2016, 10:42 PM
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Robert Lynch
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A bit accomplished tonight.

Unbolted the topper and moved it rearward a few inches, and removed the tailgate (~40#'s) - i didn't need the tail gate to secure it where i'm going so its scrap...
also got all the seats to line up and rebooted it down in its new position

de-funked the existing wiring harness by removing almost all of it - kept the CHMSL harness.. may use it, may not

added new gas struts to the drivers side.. even though they are the same force it does not go up by itself.. bummer but it does stay up easily..

waiting on
gas struts for the rear barn doors (tomorrow) and 4 flood lights so i can start laying out the rear electrical system..
needs to have a
ARB fridge plug
Dual USB
12v
battery voltage
main switches for lights
interior lights .....
Rear floods (purchased)
Side or front floods (Purchased)
drivers side shelf LED's (purchased) with separate switch in gull wing

need to go to Harbor freight tomorrow and buy a tongue box and some other stuff for the wiring at west marine..

Need to decide on color.. for rattle can paint job..

Need to mount my fridge and figure out where to sleep in it..

Future.. Roof top tent for the girls..
Dunno but they want that anyway.
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  #3  
Old February 3rd, 2016, 10:40 PM
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Robert Lynch
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small progress made..
Northern Tools supplied a trailer jack for the front - I liked this one b/c A) it had 30" of length and B) could be turned into either a wheel (+6.5" of height) or a Foot.
amazingly the stock landing gear unbolted easily - i pulled it then put it back on till tim get the tongue box installed as i might have to move the new one a bit.

next up is re-bedlining the bed - its weathered a good bit plus needs some holes sealed, then adding in a tongue box for the battery and starting on wiring...

For color i think i am going to paint the topper white - and leave the rest of it black for now.

I also bought new rear Led lights and replaced the gas struts in the doors that needed it.

Kiddos think a roof top tent would be cool so i need to start looking at that, as well as modifying the gull wing doors to clear an awning (or several or one big one.. dunno yet.)
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  #4  
Old February 4th, 2016, 07:05 AM
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It definitely needs more roof top tents if you are going to post it on ExPo.
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  #5  
Old February 4th, 2016, 09:09 AM
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Robert Lynch
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yeah - i'm not really a fan of RTT's - they suck when you have to pee...

for the kids sure, NP.. I'll sleep in the bed of it or the OzTent

This thing is huge so i'm going to disqualify it being any sort of expo trailer.

it'll make a killer car camp trailer though which is what 95% of the stuff on expo is anyway.
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  #6  
Old February 5th, 2016, 11:19 AM
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Robert Lynch
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Struts for the Gull wing are the wrong force - my fault - so i'll get another pair for that door.
Struts for the rear doors are installed.

Stuff to do
Install the following

Harbor freight tongue box for Electrics
Group 31m battery and tie down - 105ah should do the trick
Noco Genius battery charger and shore plug
Blue sea single circuit cut off, Buss bar, and 6 position fuse box in the Tongue box

In the "cab" i'm installing a Blue sea weather deck fused switch panel to handle all electrics - makes sense to place it in the rear since thats were the action is.

I need to purchase LED's for the interior

which will give me the following
1) Interior Lights
2) Front/rear Flood lights for camp setup mounted on the rack
3) Galley side light.
4) Water pump switch
5) rear Porch lights
6) Tent light circuit (eventually)

Arb fridge will be wired to the buss bar
power from the truck will come from the 7way plug directly - i'm going to leave off the toad charge unit for now.

Other stuff todo..
Redcoat the bed with Rattle can bed liner (maybe)
Paint the whole thing grey i think.. top and trailer.
add some stickers

Figure out a water system - tank will be under the bed bolted to the frame. Sure flow pump and a instant on hot water heater will be added for true Glamping.

Toilet for the girls

more pictures to come...
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  #7  
Old February 8th, 2016, 10:23 PM
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Robert Lynch
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small progress..
Removed and found down the chain hitch U thing.. to make a flat surface for the Tongue box.
Added new chains..

Waiting on parts for the tongue box
namely the Blue sea 6 circuit fuse box, 2nd buss bar (Negative), and the batter charger.
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  #8  
Old February 8th, 2016, 11:56 PM
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Chris Davis
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Just keep an eye on your trailer weight. The M101A starts around 1350lbs, I believe. Then the top and mods probably raises it to close to 1600lbs. Once you load it up, you can broach 2000lbs+ which is going to be tough on long hills and such-- just keep everything as light as possible. Does it have surge brakes or are you going electric? Looks like a cool starting platform :-)
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  #9  
Old February 9th, 2016, 12:09 AM
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Robert Lynch
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Yep its kinda a beast (12-1,300 lbs) Probably 1,600 finished (electrics and water)... i'm actually not planning on hauling a ton of crap in it though - i'll use the bed to sleep in and have the kids up top. so mostly empty inside except for event stuff.

honestly if i could have done an AT horizon, M416, or Manley that would be better but it is what it is..

No axle swap planned right now - its un-braked and M101a1 so a little lighter

The 90 is definitely not the right tow truck for this.. but it will do i think.

I'll most likely build it up for my needs, use it a few years and sell it to buy something else. unless its as useful for diving as i maybe think..
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  #10  
Old February 9th, 2016, 12:41 AM
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Just be careful, particularly on dirt tracks downhill--it will want to push th 90 around. Even with my brakes it can be tough... My trailer is probably 2k fully loaded...
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  #11  
Old February 9th, 2016, 10:14 PM
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Robert Lynch
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Will do..
meanwhile.. the rest of the Blue sea stuff arrived today and my switch box for the load space which will be mounted near the right rear door out of the way but down near the floor. It will hold the 6 switch and USB/12v plugs.

Think about some practical additions on the sides..which i had laying around
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  #12  
Old February 10th, 2016, 02:13 AM
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I love griots! That is very cool...
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  #13  
Old February 13th, 2016, 05:53 PM
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Robert Lynch
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Bunch done today..
Built up the rear switch box which I made using and extruded aluminum hobby box.

6 fused switches, 12v, dual usb, and will have a voltmeter in there as well.
I offset the voltmeter hope, oh well..
Painted it all black and it's ready to install..

Also plugged the all holes in the bed, and got it ready for bed liner.

Sean sealed the topper and the rear door brackets (and bolted the rear support down.

Pretty much ready for paint and electric install.

Then it's pretty much done except for awnings and tent. Maybe hot water.
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  #14  
Old February 14th, 2016, 08:06 PM
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Robert Lynch
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Layout of the tongue box bits..
They will be placed inside the box of course after I get the positions set.
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  #15  
Old February 19th, 2016, 03:40 PM
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Robert Lynch
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Shinny . Top coated the bead liner today..

Couple more steps and it's ready for final assembly of the electrics.
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  #16  
Old February 20th, 2016, 09:25 AM
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Robert Lynch
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Uh oh better call....
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  #17  
Old February 24th, 2016, 04:20 PM
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Robert Lynch
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Batterybox is mostly done Noco genius charger Noco power plug on drivers side Blue sea Cut off Fuse block And pos/neg covered buss bars Now just need to get the trailer back from paint and do the final install on it.
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  #18  
Old February 24th, 2016, 08:29 PM
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Robert Lynch
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i should have went with my original electrics layout.. live and learn it will work.
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  #19  
Old February 24th, 2016, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlynch356 View Post
i should have went with my original electrics layout.. live and learn it will work.
what happened ??
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  #20  
Old February 24th, 2016, 09:29 PM
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Robert Lynch
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I thought i had a better solution (it seemed that way laid out) but once i got it installed i saw that my original layout would have been much cleaner.

Nothing really wrong with it - just could have been better.

Rear switch panel and all the outlets/lights/etc are ready for install once it get back from paint.
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