Battery Box Redux - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Build-up's, Projects & Registry Profiles > Smaller Projects


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old August 5th, 2010, 11:16 AM
chris snell's Avatar
chris snell
Status: Offline
Chris Snell
87 Ex-MOD 110
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Kansas
Posts: 2,439
Battery Box Redux

Woody (SeattleRRC) asked if I would do a write-up on my battery box improvements.

This project has been in the works for a while now. My battery box had become quite a mess with successive installs of accessories. It started with a CB radio hastily wired with the wrong size of ring terminals, then continued on with the iPod charger install, the 2-meter radio install, the GPS, the stereo amp...

The wiring was hideous and I had no idea what I was doing. To "organize" things, I started wrapping bundles of wires together with electrical tape. No wonder there was so much motor noise on the 2-meter radio...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/defende...7624314668149/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/defende...7624314668149/

It got to the point where I didn't know what any of the wiring was anymore. It was a total mess and an electrical fire waiting to happen:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/defende...7624314668149/

The first step in this project was to remove all of the old crap. I took out almost two pounds of crap wiring:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/defende...7624314668149/

Once that was done, I was left with a very dirty battery box. A trim screw, some seat foam, dirt from at least three states, a receipt for lunch...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/defende...7624314668149/

I vacuumed everything out and wiped it down with a soapy rag and dried it. Next, I measured my battery and cut out a foam core template. I drew lines across the template where I wanted the retaining brackets to sit:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/defende...7624314668149/

(ignore those red lines from the old stereo amp install...ugh)

The design for my bracket was not original at all. I stole the idea outright from Jack Quinlan and his D110.

I'm not sure what Jack used for his bracket but I think it was zinc-plated steel with alumnium bar stock. For mine, I used type 316 stainless steel hardware with aluminum bar stock. I prefer the type 316 stainless because I think it looks a lot better. It's only a little more expensive.

With the exception of the aluminum bar stock (which came from Lowe's), all of my hardware was sourced from McMaster.

For the fuse box and MAXI fuse, I used button-head hex socket cap screws. It's a pain in the ass to measure all of these different things and calculate and order the right screws so I just bought an assortment of stainless steel button heads instead. I use them in a lot of projects:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/defende...7624314668149/

The actual bracket design is loosely based on what Jack did. I'm not sure that it's the same but it works nonetheless. I cut the aluminum bar to lay on top of the battery and hold it down. I drilled 8mm holes on each end for the M8 fasteners. For the fasteners, I constructed the following:

...from top to bottom (and most everything is type 316 stainless)...

M8 nyloc nut, 1.25mm pitch (94205A260)
M8 24mm OD fender washer (95211A180)
M8 threaded rod, 1.25mm pitch (94185A160)
M8 coupling nut, 1.25mm pitch (93590A220) (sold individualy; don't forget to order four of them)
M8 hex nut, 1.25mm pitch (91828A410)
M8 16mm OD washer (90965A190)
M8 24mm OD fender washer (same as before)
M8 30mm hex head cap screw (93635A326) (note: I can't remember if I used the 30mm or 25mm. I ordered both. 25mm is part #93635A322)

Here is the assembled hardware, ready for the install:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/defender90/4771484023/

I got really anal-retentive and took some very fine grit sandpaper and brushed the aluminum bar.

Once I had the template in the box, worked out the locations for the drilled holes, two on the inboard side and two on the outboard side. The inboard side holes actually sit up on the "hump" You need to allow plenty of room for the coupling nuts to clear the sides of the battery.

I marked the locations with a marker and used a center punch to make an indention. I drilled the holes, starting with a small bit and then a larger 8mm bit.

To mount the battery, install the outboard posts in without the nylocs on top. Put the battery in next and then put the inboard posts in. Tighten up the non-locking nuts on the bottom of the posts to hold the posts securely to the box floor. Lay the bar across the battery, put on the washers and then tighten the nylocs down to secure the battery.

Next, I installed the Blue Sea Systems fuse box and MAXI fuse. You can buy these at West Marine or online at defender.com. I can't remember what size hardware I used to install these boxes but the packaging for the fuses tells you what to use. M4, I think. I used the hex head button cap screws. Again, I arranged everything, marked the locations of the drill holes, punched, and drilled. You'll need some stainless M4 washers and nyloc hex nuts for these, too.

Once the fuse boxes were mounted, I needed to make some battery cables to hook everything together. It's really easy to make your own battery cables. Don't buy the shitty cables from Autozone. Make your own!

I used Ancor marine-grade battery cable from defender.com. It's expensive but your truck is worth it. For the winch cables, I used 2 AWG cable; for the fuse box, 4 AWG. You will also need some terminal lugs. They come in two sizes. For the positive leads on my battery, I needed the 3/8" hole. For the negative, the 5/16" hole. Buy some extras just in case.

The best way to make your own cables is to solder them. It's way better than crimping and it's not hard at all. I learned by watching this video:



I didn't use their little solder capsules. I just wound up some solder and stuck it in the lug:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/defende...n/photostream/

Using my torch, I melted the solder inside the lug:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/defende...n/photostream/

When the solder is melted, carefully and quickly insert the stripped end of the cable into the molten solder puddle inside the lug:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/defende...n/photostream/

Allow it to cool and then slip a piece of heat shrink over the connection to keep things sealed up:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/defende...n/photostream/

Briefly hit it with the torch again and you'll have a perfect battery terminal.

For the accessories, the positive lead goes from the battery, to the MAXI fuse, to the fuse block. Winch obviously goes directly to the battery.

I run a Superwinch Husky 10 in a Mantec bumper. The Superwinch comes with battery cables that are too short and you end up doing a really ugly cable run to make them work. I tossed them aside and made my own leads out of Ancor 2AWG and gave myself enough cable to hide them way back in the wheel wells. I ran them in heater hose (Pendy's idea, I think) and I used stainless steel clamps with high-temp silicone cushions and more stainless hardware to secure them to the wheel well.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/defende...n/photostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/defende...n/photostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/defende...n/photostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/defende...n/photostream/


The final result:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/defende...7624314668149/

I've since replaced the grommets in the holes on the side of the box. In the future, I plan to replace the primary leads with more home-built Ancor leads.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old August 5th, 2010, 11:38 AM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,688
"I run a Superwinch Husky 10 in a Mantec bumper. The Superwinch comes with battery cables that are too short and you end up doing a really ugly cable run to make them work. I tossed them aside ...."

Explain please. Do they actually reach the battery? If so, can I have them?
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old August 5th, 2010, 12:03 PM
DMSLongLake's Avatar
DMSLongLake
Status: Offline
Dave Sherwood
1994 D90 ST
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Long Lake, MN USA
Posts: 685
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
I've since replaced the grommets in the holes on the side of the box. In the future, I plan to replace the primary leads with more home-built Ancor leads.
Can you tell me where you got the grommets for the holes?

I spent 2 hours looking for them on the net (if you say "The Dealer" I am going to stab myslef....)

Dave
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old August 5th, 2010, 12:55 PM
bjf's Avatar
bjf
Status: Offline
barry f
94 ST #395
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: los angeles
Posts: 10,969
Looks good. I like how you hung the relay. Is it hanging on a screw?

------ Follow up post added August 5th, 2010 11:10 AM ------

Just read it. Looks good
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old August 5th, 2010, 07:12 PM
SeattleRRC's Avatar
SeattleRRC
Status: Offline
Woody
1990 RRC SWB, 1994 D90 ST
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Now in Washington DC
Posts: 281
Awesome write-up.
Thanks!
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old August 6th, 2010, 07:51 AM
cgalpin's Avatar
cgalpin
Status: Offline
Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Riding, VA
Posts: 11,625
Registry
Very nice. Please tell us more about your choice of routing for the winch cables. Did you go over the wheel well to bypass the steering bits etc? I haven't looked in a while but was planning on routing mine along the top of the frame.

Also, did you consider putting the winch solenoids in the box? How about some pics of the winch too!

thanks,
charles
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old August 6th, 2010, 08:13 AM
rijosho's Avatar
rijosho
Status: Offline
Joshua
1995 Black ST - Rhinolined edition
Research Assistant/Eagle Eyes
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: NYC
Posts: 16,557
Registry
Great write-up between you and JSQ. I still don't quite understand my dual battery system that is installed. This central fuse idea is also great. Did you end up moving your amp to the passenger seat box?
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old August 6th, 2010, 08:41 AM
JimC's Avatar
JimC
Status: Offline
Jim Cheney
NAS 110 #145
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Stuttgart, Germany
Posts: 7,154
Registry
Charles - here's a tall order, but can you embed Chris' Flick pix in the thread because:
1) That ensures they stay here on the site with the thread &
2) USFOR-A blocks all traffic from photo hosting sites - so I can't look at them!
__________________
Jim Cheney

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old August 6th, 2010, 09:08 AM
cgalpin's Avatar
cgalpin
Status: Offline
Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Riding, VA
Posts: 11,625
Registry
Ok, but not right now - too time consuming to download them from flickr and I'm crazy busy this week. I'll get to it tonight or over the weekend.

Chris is you can send them to me or make the set downloadable it would help speed it up. It's easy to resize/upload here.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old August 6th, 2010, 10:28 AM
ini88's Avatar
ini88
Status: Offline
Daniel Marcello
Alloy+Grit Creative Director
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Queens, NY
Posts: 2,816
great write up Chris. I am about to clean up my battery box in a week or so. If you could... do you think you could fit a dual battery set up in there and have room for the fuse box and MAXI fuse?
__________________
1955 Series I
1975 FC101 Vampire
1994 Defender 90 #916
1967 Lancia Fulvia
1974 Alfa Romeo GTV
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old August 6th, 2010, 11:39 AM
Uncle Douglas's Avatar
Uncle Douglas
Status: Online
Doug Crowther
A defender in every driveway-motto
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Gods Country- Central Virginia
Posts: 11,841
Registry
christ you guys are way ahead of me- I'm just to the point of drilling out the rivets to get the battery box sand blasted and galvanized and haven't done that yet
__________________
Good judgement comes from experience,experience comes from bad judgement.

Dividing Creek Imports
Worldwide Vehicle Shipment and Importation Service
Restoration & Modification work


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

410.693.1391


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old August 6th, 2010, 11:44 AM
chris snell's Avatar
chris snell
Status: Offline
Chris Snell
87 Ex-MOD 110
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Kansas
Posts: 2,439
Jim, PM me your AKO address and I can forward some smaller versions on there if you'd like.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old August 6th, 2010, 11:48 AM
cgalpin's Avatar
cgalpin
Status: Offline
Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Riding, VA
Posts: 11,625
Registry
The point is to also keep this thread useful to others for the conceivable future, but I guess Jim can upload the small ones.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old August 6th, 2010, 11:55 AM
chris snell's Avatar
chris snell
Status: Offline
Chris Snell
87 Ex-MOD 110
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Kansas
Posts: 2,439
So, to answer your questions:

The grommets should be available from RN or AB but you're going to have to make sure that they get you the right ones. The ones I have now are not the right ones and I'm still looking for the ones that fit correctly.

There is no relay in the box, Barry. Perhaps you meant the MAXI fuse? All of that stuff is mounted on the box with M4 (I think...) type 316 stainless steel button-cap hex head machine screws, SS washers and SS nyloc nuts.

Charles, the winch solenoid is mounted on the side of the winch. I'm going to do a full write-up on that, too. For now, you can see some photos here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/defende...7624439341628/

Josh, I like the centralized fuses because I don't like chasing down fuses all over the truck. This way, everything is in one place, nice and organized.

The amplifier has been pulled out and will be relocated to the rear storage boxes, which is my next project. These should be pretty awesome if I can pull them off....

Daniel, you could probably fit two small batteries in there and retain the fuses but it would be tight and the fuse panel would not be easy to see or work on without removing the batteries. I love the PM-1s and Odyssey batteries. They have lots of juevos and are a good alternative to dual batteries.

Doug, post some pictures when you get it blasted. I'd love to see it.

------ Follow up post added August 6th, 2010 08:57 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
The point is to also keep this thread useful to others for the conceivable future, but I guess Jim can upload the small ones.
No worries, I will upload them later. That Flickr account isn't going anywhere, though. I've been a customer of theirs for years.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old August 6th, 2010, 12:02 PM
cgalpin's Avatar
cgalpin
Status: Offline
Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Riding, VA
Posts: 11,625
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
Charles, the winch solenoid is mounted on the side of the winch. I'm going to do a full write-up on that, too. For now, you can see some photos here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/defende...7624439341628/
Thanks Chris. Would it be too much to ask for a measurement from the bottom edge of the front facia to the inside edge of the vertical piece on the bumper that you mount the fairlead to? I am moving slow as molasses but have decided to just modify my bumper to fit my husky and would like to know what size you have.

thanks,
charles
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old August 6th, 2010, 12:10 PM
chris snell's Avatar
chris snell
Status: Offline
Chris Snell
87 Ex-MOD 110
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Kansas
Posts: 2,439
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Thanks Chris. Would it be too much to ask for a measurement from the bottom edge of the front facia to the inside edge of the vertical piece on the bumper that you mount the fairlead to? I am moving slow as molasses but have decided to just modify my bumper to fit my husky and would like to know what size you have.

thanks,
charles
Not quite sure what you mean. Could you maybe make a couple of marks on my photos to show me what you need measurements for?

I am in Colorado for the weekend so it will probably be Monday night before I can measure them.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old August 6th, 2010, 12:36 PM
cgalpin's Avatar
cgalpin
Status: Offline
Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Riding, VA
Posts: 11,625
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
Not quite sure what you mean. Could you maybe make a couple of marks on my photos to show me what you need measurements for?

I am in Colorado for the weekend so it will probably be Monday night before I can measure them.
No rush. Just want to see how much room you have for the winch. The distance between the two arrows here:

Thanks!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	4452626616_9049251c34_z.jpg
Views:	371
Size:	101.2 KB
ID:	29908  
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old August 6th, 2010, 03:54 PM
97-D90-736
Status: Offline
Nick Vogel
1997 D-90 / 2012 LR4
Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 508
I love the centralized fuse panel. If you had to add relays (switches, lights, etc) how do you think you would / could orgainize that in the same spot?
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old August 6th, 2010, 11:20 PM
chris snell's Avatar
chris snell
Status: Offline
Chris Snell
87 Ex-MOD 110
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Kansas
Posts: 2,439
I've thought about that and I'm still unsure of how I want to do it. My thought was to build a bracket on the wheel well in the engine bay and mount all of the relays up there, powered from the battery box fuse panel. My plan is to use factory switches and the factory switch panel on the lower-left of the steering wheel for the auxiliary lighting, 2m motorized antenna controls, etc. I'll need to see what's involved with bringing wiring in and out of there. I don't want wire runs all over the place but I don't want to compromise on organization, either.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old August 7th, 2010, 12:36 AM
DMSLongLake's Avatar
DMSLongLake
Status: Offline
Dave Sherwood
1994 D90 ST
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Long Lake, MN USA
Posts: 685
Registry
I just ran a 4 gauge battery cable to the empty spot over the dirvers wheel. Putting a bus there for lights, horn, etc.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Build-up's, Projects & Registry Profiles > Smaller Projects

Tags
battery

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Battery Box Replacement? IPSC_GUY Defender Technical Discussions 12 December 23rd, 2009 09:16 AM
WNWPP D90 Dual Battery Tray! DJ Menasco Defender Technical Discussions 15 July 29th, 2009 12:00 AM
Battery Box Cleanup don Defender Technical Discussions 5 May 15th, 2009 12:55 PM
Waterproofing speaker box? Helihntr Defender Technical Discussions 9 May 26th, 2005 12:31 PM
Sealed battery? OCD90 Defender Technical Discussions 4 December 22nd, 2003 01:43 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:00 PM.


Copyright