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  #21  
Old August 9th, 2010, 11:10 PM
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Chris Snell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Thanks Chris. Would it be too much to ask for a measurement from the bottom edge of the front facia to the inside edge of the vertical piece on the bumper that you mount the fairlead to? I am moving slow as molasses but have decided to just modify my bumper to fit my husky and would like to know what size you have.

thanks,
charles
I'm measuring about 230-240mm, depending on where you take the measurement.

It's a very tight fit with the Superwinch Husky 10 but fortunately, you don't have to cut anything.
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  #22  
Old August 10th, 2010, 08:14 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Sorry don't mean to keep hijacking the thread. I'll just mention that I need to modify my bumper (or replace it) to use my husky, and right now I am leaning towards modifying mine except I think I'm going to run into clearance issues with the rear mounting bolts so modifying mine may not be possible. Anyway thanks for the measurement - gives me something to compare to, and is actually a little less than I was expecting I'd need so thats good to know. It's crazy how much trouble an inch is causing me
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  #23  
Old August 16th, 2010, 10:57 PM
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Nick Vogel
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Chris,

Do you have a picture of wires ran from and to the fuse box? How did you run the wires out of the batt box in an organized manor?
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  #24  
Old August 17th, 2010, 12:49 AM
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Chris Snell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97-D90-736 View Post
Chris,

Do you have a picture of wires ran from and to the fuse box? How did you run the wires out of the batt box in an organized manor?
If you're referring to the Blue Sea Systems fuse box, I haven't wired anything to it yet. The Icom 706MkIIG, K9000 antenna mounts, Engel 45 and iPhone charger will eventually wire to it but I am waiting on my rear storage boxes to be made before I mount those things and wire them up.

I will probably just use some wire loom with electrical tape holding it tight, just like the factory does. I don't know of any other clean way to run those wires out of the box.
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  #25  
Old October 6th, 2010, 12:30 AM
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Here are the grommets for the holes:

McMaster-Carr part #1061T77

http://www.mcmaster.com/#1061t77/=95h52p

I used the high-temperature versions because they are better suited for the heat of the exhaust and the cold of winter.
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  #26  
Old June 22nd, 2011, 11:17 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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My Passenger seat box has a 60MM hole that appears stock. Any suggestions where to source a grommet for this hole? I spoke to vendors and all rover grommets comes with the harnesses, they are not available for purchase separately. Doesn't appear that Mcmaster has grommets for that large sized hole either.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
Here are the grommets for the holes:

McMaster-Carr part #1061T77

http://www.mcmaster.com/#1061t77/=95h52p

I used the high-temperature versions because they are better suited for the heat of the exhaust and the cold of winter.
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  #27  
Old April 3rd, 2012, 03:45 PM
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Added an insulator boot over the accessory post terminal. Used this one from GenuineDealz.
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  #28  
Old March 4th, 2015, 03:47 PM
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One of the board members messaged me privately w/ some wiring questions and it got me thinking--I need to update this thread.

For anyone that's looking at re-doing their wiring, here are a few techniques that I've picked up over the years. Some come from folks on here (Bill Adams, etc.) and others are just things that I've figured out.

1. I don't use dual battery systems. A single industrial-grade group 31 battery like the Odyssey PC210 is all most folks will ever need. Ben Little left his Engle turned on in his truck in the middle of summer and forgot all about it and went on vacation for a week. When he came back, the battery still started his truck. The PC2150 will run your fridge on battery alone overnight no problemo. Dual-battery systems add unnecessary complexity and expense.

2. I don't solder battery terminal lugs on cable any more because the solder can break loose over time. I only do crimping after Bill Adams schooled me on this. I don't like the hammer crimpers so I use the big levered crimpers that look like bolt cutters. They are expensive to buy but if you buy your battery from Battery Systems, they'll let you borrow theirs

3. Never run bare wire around your truck. Wrap it in some kind of protective coating. Some people like to use wiring loom and electrical tape from Autozone and that's fine. I prefer to use expandable braided sleeving for internal runs and industrial-grade, diesel-resistant heat shrink for external runs. Genuine Dealz is a good source for the braided sleeving. The easiest way to cut braided sleeving is with a piece of bare wire, tied between two supports and heated with a torch. (Thanks to Brian Hall for that one)

4. Always use grommets. Never, ever run cable through a bare hole in your battery box or anywhere else. You're just asking for an electrical fire if do.

5. Always use a fuse block. Don't pile a bunch of wires on your battery terminals or use some crappy splitter. Blue Sea Systems makes the fuse blocks that I like.

6. Match your fuses to the device being hooked up. Find out what it's max current draw is and round up to the closest appropriate fuse rating. Using a 30A fuse for a 3A device is creating a potential fire hazard.

7. Fuse everything except your starter and your winch. Use an inline Maxi-Fuse when hooking up high-draw components like a fuse block.

8. Use quality connectors and wire. I recommend Ancor marine-grade wire and connectors. You can buy it from West Marine or places like GenuineDealz and Defender.com. With marine-grade wire, the individual copper strands are solder-coated before being braided. This helps reduce corrosion at the terminals. Ancor makes heatshrink connectors that do a nice job of sealing up to the wire. West Marine stocks these in their stores. Also, use the correct gauge and style of connectors. The connector needs to match the wire you're attaching as well as the terminal post size it's connecting to. For the Blue Sea Systems boxes, look in their technical specs for the specific terminal sizes and buy ring connectors to match.

9. Bring spares. I bring a little spare wire along with spare terminals/lugs for everything. I also bring solder and a torch in case I need to reattach a lug and don't have a crimper available.

10. Keep it simple. Avoid battery switchers, gauges, etc. The less wiring, the better. The less crap crammed in your battery box the better. If something goes wrong and you have an electrical fire, you need to be able to get into your battery box and pull the Maxi-Fuse quickly.
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  #29  
Old March 12th, 2015, 08:54 PM
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Abraham Bell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
One of the board members messaged me privately w/ some wiring questions and it got me thinking--I need to update this thread.

For anyone that's looking at re-doing their wiring, here are a few techniques that I've picked up over the years. Some come from folks on here (Bill Adams, etc.) and others are just things that I've figured out.

1. I don't use dual battery systems. A single industrial-grade group 31 battery like the Odyssey PC210 is all most folks will ever need. Ben Little left his Engle turned on in his truck in the middle of summer and forgot all about it and went on vacation for a week. When he came back, the battery still started his truck. The PC2150 will run your fridge on battery alone overnight no problemo. Dual-battery systems add unnecessary complexity and expense.

2. I don't solder battery terminal lugs on cable any more because the solder can break loose over time. I only do crimping after Bill Adams schooled me on this. I don't like the hammer crimpers so I use the big levered crimpers that look like bolt cutters. They are expensive to buy but if you buy your battery from Battery Systems, they'll let you borrow theirs

3. Never run bare wire around your truck. Wrap it in some kind of protective coating. Some people like to use wiring loom and electrical tape from Autozone and that's fine. I prefer to use expandable braided sleeving for internal runs and industrial-grade, diesel-resistant heat shrink for external runs. Genuine Dealz is a good source for the braided sleeving. The easiest way to cut braided sleeving is with a piece of bare wire, tied between two supports and heated with a torch. (Thanks to Brian Hall for that one)

4. Always use grommets. Never, ever run cable through a bare hole in your battery box or anywhere else. You're just asking for an electrical fire if do.

5. Always use a fuse block. Don't pile a bunch of wires on your battery terminals or use some crappy splitter. Blue Sea Systems makes the fuse blocks that I like.

6. Match your fuses to the device being hooked up. Find out what it's max current draw is and round up to the closest appropriate fuse rating. Using a 30A fuse for a 3A device is creating a potential fire hazard.

7. Fuse everything except your starter and your winch. Use an inline Maxi-Fuse when hooking up high-draw components like a fuse block.

8. Use quality connectors and wire. I recommend Ancor marine-grade wire and connectors. You can buy it from West Marine or places like GenuineDealz and Defender.com. With marine-grade wire, the individual copper strands are solder-coated before being braided. This helps reduce corrosion at the terminals. Ancor makes heatshrink connectors that do a nice job of sealing up to the wire. West Marine stocks these in their stores. Also, use the correct gauge and style of connectors. The connector needs to match the wire you're attaching as well as the terminal post size it's connecting to. For the Blue Sea Systems boxes, look in their technical specs for the specific terminal sizes and buy ring connectors to match.

9. Bring spares. I bring a little spare wire along with spare terminals/lugs for everything. I also bring solder and a torch in case I need to reattach a lug and don't have a crimper available.

10. Keep it simple. Avoid battery switchers, gauges, etc. The less wiring, the better. The less crap crammed in your battery box the better. If something goes wrong and you have an electrical fire, you need to be able to get into your battery box and pull the Maxi-Fuse quickly.
Very,very good information Chris. Great post that really can help people out.
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  #30  
Old March 12th, 2015, 09:30 PM
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Mark Miller
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Chris,

Many thanks. I smiled at some of the crap I have learned the hard way. No shortcuts to doing good wiring...
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  #31  
Old March 12th, 2015, 10:29 PM
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Chris, well wrote. I cut my teeth on DC electric systems as a youth on diesel submarines with capacities on thousandths of amp/hrs there are no short cuts only short circuits, and with that amount of amps DEATH.

I did pick up a Ron Francis Wiring Catalog the other day looking for something and there is an Encyclopedia section in it that's a good read for somebody new to field and the old. Plus there are things in for you LS engine guys. (Ron Francis Wiring)

thanks
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  #32  
Old January 9th, 2016, 03:34 PM
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I thought I'd share a pic of my box. Thanks for all the good advice Chris!
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