Attaching a Rear License Plate - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old September 8th, 2016, 08:38 AM
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Joshua
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D90Overkill View Post
3M it. Why drill any holes? It's perfect as is. Sure, if there were already some holes, or they were in the wrong place, then what's one more set of holes so long as they aren't visible. But this is different. That's a beautiful truck and those locations are unblemished. Maybe you'll relocate your plates in the future. Tape would allow that. This stuff is strong and exterior grade. It'll hold forever. You can practically build with it. $6 at Home Depot. 3M extreme mounting tape. It can be removed, but you have to rotate the fixture/license plate frame to start the peel. Then any residual can be rubbed off. Easy peasy and not overthought.
I think they sell that tape in different widths. What is the ideal width of tape to use for a license plate? 1/4"? 1/2"? 1"? And should it be boxed along the perimeter or an X across the middle back of the plate? You said it's strong enough to build with - can it also hold a tire carrier if I haven't drilled holes for one yet? And should the front license plate go in the middle, biased toward the driver or passenger (and if so how much?).
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  #22  
Old September 8th, 2016, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
I think they sell that tape in different widths. What is the ideal width of tape to use for a license plate? 1/4"? 1/2"? 1"? And should it be boxed along the perimeter or an X across the middle back of the plate? You said it's strong enough to build with - can it also hold a tire carrier if I haven't drilled holes for one yet? And should the front license plate go in the middle, biased toward the driver or passenger (and if so how much?).
Amazing
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #23  
Old September 8th, 2016, 10:53 AM
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Keith Armstrong
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Tape!

My BB badge that weighs many times what the license plate weighs, has been stuck on with that 3M red tape for a couple of years now.

Yes, the license plate is attached with plastic screws and there are rubber washers behind it to keep it off the paint.
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  #24  
Old September 8th, 2016, 01:02 PM
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What about dry wall screws. I think they will hold it on for the long haul.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #25  
Old September 8th, 2016, 02:21 PM
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I have always used pop rivets with a stainless washer.
Same size self sealing as the ones used on the body.
Easy enough to drill if you need to remove the plate.
Fastest and easiest way in my opinion.
I am not a fan of rivnuts.
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  #26  
Old September 8th, 2016, 02:49 PM
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I drill into the plate and use whatever holes may be in the truck already
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  #27  
Old September 8th, 2016, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben01 View Post
I drill into the plate and use whatever holes may be in the truck already
OP doesn't have holes in the truck.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #28  
Old September 8th, 2016, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
OP doesn't have holes in the truck.
go for tape
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  #29  
Old September 8th, 2016, 04:10 PM
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I just drilled stainless screws into the metal and used rubber washers to separate the plate from the body. It's not like license plates are changing size or you will put it somewhere else one day.
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  #30  
Old September 8th, 2016, 05:24 PM
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Tape is a bad investment.
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #31  
Old September 8th, 2016, 08:23 PM
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Kurt, you may want to look at a proper plate holder.

DRM000011 is the Genuine LR part number for a plate holder. Should run you about $35 or so. 2 rivnuts in the back, hold it in and you have a holder that keeps the plate from vibrating and scraping off that nice fresh paint. Also lets you attach the plate to the frame with 4 screws.

Neat, tidy and secure.
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  #32  
Old September 8th, 2016, 08:47 PM
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The factory set up on NAS trucks is four rivnuts and there is a 1/4 inch rubber "plate" carved with a Land Rover oval that you can fix between the license plate and the panel. With plastic screws this is pretty great.
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  #33  
Old September 10th, 2016, 12:46 PM
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Big thanks for all the replies. I think I'll use the tape temporarily just to get the plates on quickly and see how it goes. If I get motivated i may for for the more sturdy and permanent solution of using the backer plate and rivnuts. Much appreciated all.
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  #34  
Old September 10th, 2016, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
I am not a fan of rivnuts.
Why are you not a fan of rivnuts?
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  #35  
Old September 10th, 2016, 01:04 PM
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David Frank
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Good move, sir.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
I think they sell that tape in different widths. What is the ideal width of tape to use for a license plate? 1/4"? 1/2"? 1"? And should it be boxed along the perimeter or an X across the middle back of the plate? You said it's strong enough to build with - can it also hold a tire carrier if I haven't drilled holes for one yet? And should the front license plate go in the middle, biased toward the driver or passenger (and if so how much?).
Haha. They actually don't. Just 1" widths I'm afraid. And I know you're just messing with me, but to be honest, I'd do a perimeter tape job (seam to seam) to both hold and act as a water barrier protecting the "x" in the middle of the plate that would hold the plate indefinitely. Overkill is my thing ;-)
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  #36  
Old September 14th, 2016, 06:29 PM
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Kurt
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Another rookie question. If i do end up doing rivnuts, I assume I should use aluminum and not steel so that it is similar metals?
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  #37  
Old September 14th, 2016, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kurtisblo View Post
Another rookie question. If i do end up doing rivnuts, I assume I should use aluminum and not steel so that it is similar metals?
Stock are steel. I have not seen aluminium rivnuts. Maybe they exist.
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  #38  
Old September 14th, 2016, 06:47 PM
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William Ficner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Stock are steel. I have not seen aluminium rivnuts. Maybe they exist.
Aluminum riv nuts are certainly around, I just used a wack of them.

That's definitely what I would use to avoid any corrosion issues.
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  #39  
Old September 14th, 2016, 07:01 PM
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Alu is available at ace, osh, and of course, fastenal. If you can't find any easily, I'll pick some up and mail them to you.
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  #40  
Old September 15th, 2016, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D90Overkill View Post
Alu is available at ace, osh, and of course, fastenal. If you can't find any easily, I'll pick some up and mail them to you.
thanks! I can find some online I'm sure.

Btw, I went to Osh, O'Riley and Home Depot and NONE of them had rivnuts or even knew what I was talking about! Amazon is my friend.
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