Thought I'd share the pics and process of installing my Allisport full-length intercooler supplied courtesy of Randy (TDIGuy).
First of all, all the hype about Allisport is spot on. The quality is legit. Heavy gauge aluminum, quality TIG welds and you can see how they get serious money for their products.
I already documented the first phase of this install in a few other threads covering EGT gauge and boost gauge:
The entire breakfast, smal panel and radiator housing was removed in conjunction with the timing belt refresh as well, and I think that the entire radiator frame needs to come out regardless, or at least in my case becaue I had to fabricate mounting brackets supported by the underside of the radiator frame/housing.
I don't think the IC absolutely needs to be centered in fact, you should pay attention to the length of the plumbing because if you choose to mount it all the way over to the right (or left if you're looking at it from the front), you may need a bit longer hose coming from the turbo. Mine is centered (or within 1/2" of center).
I re-wrapped the IC in cardboard and bubble wrap when handling and dry-fitting because those fins are just begging to get damaged.
I read one thing in Allisport's on-line fitting instructions that jumped out at me that basically stated that if you don't pay attention to the clearance of the top of the IC to the bottom of the bonnet latch mechanism, it could chaffe or pucture the top of the IC. THis became the primary concern when locating the exact position.
With the extended breakfast panel I had plenty of room to position, but fitment can be accomplished with a regular flat breakfast panel as well.
Shimming the bottom of the IC off the frame and bumper I looked around for suitable mounting points. I'm pretty sure the bottom brackets that (allegedly
) come with the IC are meant to be mounted off of the lower mounts that the diagonal slam panel supports formerly used (the diagonal supports need to be removed to accomodate the IC and the IC now bears some of the load of the slam panel).
HOWEVER, after thinking about this for a bit, I figured that it makes more sense to secure the lower mounts to the radiator surround/frame instead of the vehicle frame so that the entire unit (radiator frame, IC & and radiator could be removed as one unit). Remembering that the lower mounts need to be fairly robust to not just support the weight of the IC, but also carry the load of the slam panel when everything is connected, I decided to make these mounting brackets, or tabs out of 3/16" x 1-1/2" flat stock (steel). You can see the pictures of them painted black below. THe larger hole is forward and accomodates the lower rubber grommet that you pull out of the radiator frame that the stock IC used to sit on.
The smaller hole (3/8") is where it mounts to one of the two lower radiator frame fasteners (I used the ones that would end up closest to the engine).
If I had more fabrication equipment such as a bender/break and whatnot, I'd have put a dogleg bend in the tabe, but instead I just spaced it with a 3/4" galvanized spacer in order to position the IC slightly lower than the radiator frame (to gain the necessary clearance on the top side from the bonnet latch). Since these tabs only mount with one bolt, they can easily be moved around to position them to fit the lowere IC feet inside the grommets. I suppose I could have dreamed up a more elaborate mounting design, but sometimes simpler is better. THese lower tabs are plenty rigid to do what they need to do. Make sure that when you source the longer bolts to go through the spacers that when tightened they do not extend into the inside of the radiator frame beyond the fixed nut or they could chaffe or puncture the radiator.
Now, for the upper supports that bolts to the front of the IC, I elected to fabricate these out of flat aluminum stock instead of steel because 1) theyare very visible and 2) I needed to bend these to conture the underside of the slam panel because thet's where the upper end was tobe bolted to. THese brackets were also basic aluminum stock (I forget the dims but larger thicker than 1/8") and can be seen in the pictures below. Again, the top part bolts to the underside of the slam panel and the lower part bolts to the front of the IC. No bolts were supplied by Allisport but make sure they are not long enought to bottom out on the IC. I buffered the bracket and IC with a rubber washer and used Loctite 232 and did not put a lot of torque on these.
After clearence was checked and rechecked (especially after the bonnet was closed and fully latched, I once again removed the slam panel, radiator frame, radiator and IC as one assembly. After removing the 4 bolts that hold the slam panel, the entire assembly removes as one unit now.
I tightened the bottom bracket tabs all the way, re installed the unit and began tightening the upper brackets and snugging the slam panel (I did not tighten the slam panel all the way until the breakfast panel was installed.
Connect all plumbing and don't be surprise if it doesn't fit as precisely as it used to.
There are other smaller steps I'm sure I'm forgetting to write about, but if you're tackling this project on your own, I would assume that you'd be all set without hearing the minutiae.
The 4th to the past photo shows how important the clearance is between the top of the IC and the bottom of the bonnet latch.
Also, take the measurements seen here with a grain of salt. As we all know the body gaps on a Defender are anything but uniform among trucks.