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  #81  
Old September 10th, 2013, 10:39 PM
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Raub A.
1987 D110 Tithonus
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Austrian au pairs are the best!
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  #82  
Old September 10th, 2013, 10:54 PM
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Sam
NAS 97 D90 SW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daddymow View Post
Austrian au pairs are the best!
Which agency did you use?
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  #83  
Old September 11th, 2013, 08:46 PM
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Sam
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Heres what I had hidden behind the fuse panel. I know its hard to see, but can someone tell with these terrible photos where the two purple wires go? One is disconnected and the other is horribly soldiered and looks like the connection melted. That bid fuse laying there by the mat has the aux wiring going from it to the switch along with a bunch of other wires. Make any sense to anyone? Im looking through these diagrams trying to make sense of this.

Edit. Ok, making some headway on wire identification.
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  #84  
Old September 11th, 2013, 10:41 PM
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Sam
NAS 97 D90 SW
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Front headlights, both low or high beam, are still inoperable. High beam indicator does not light up on the dash, exhibiting signs of a bad switch. All the front indicator lights and tail lights work.

But the high beams work on flash/momentary high beam from the turn signal stalk and the high beam indicator lights up. Did my switch eat it coincidentally with me messing with tail light wiring or did I jack it up? Would that cause a short and eat my battery overnight? I should probably install this IPF wiring harness thats been staring at me before I install the new switch.

Todays bigger/notable damage:

Genuine heater matrix
New Ancor 701030 Double Crimper
New Lincoln 1134 Grease Gun
Temperature Sensor
Oil Pressure Sensor
Fuel Filter
Diehard Platinum Group 34 Battery.

And now I need a light switch.

I figure I can hopefully look back at this thread in 10 years and laugh at myself. Hope being the key word.

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  #85  
Old September 20th, 2013, 10:08 PM
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Sam
NAS 97 D90 SW
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Lights work, coolant leak fixed. Whew.

The heater matrix definitely was the culprit. Ive heard others have issues with rubbing causing leaks, but mine looks like the buildup of junk from the fresh air intake caused its demise. The air intake arm was full of crud and the drain was plugged, causing buildup at the bottom of the heater box and matrix. When I pull this out again in a few months to widen the bulkhead opening, Im going to fab a screen to prevent debris buildup down there.

Replaced all top end coolant hoses as well. High time.



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You have to remove the AC box in the cab to get to the two bolts holding the bottom of the heater box. And a second set of hands is almost mandatory to get those two bolts off. I also had to remove the coolant overflow tank/holder and ECU/holder to access everything.

I found that the matrix was held in by thousands of little screws. I was under the impression it was a rivet job so I was pleasantly surprised. Also, there is a lot of foam and padding to seal all passages into and out of the box and to pad the matrix. Id recommend finding replacements for all; you can smell the staleness from the old padding if you don't and the old foam will rip.

I ordered a genuine matrix from AB ($180 vs $380 for the same at RN!) as I heard the aftermarket job's matrix inlet/outlet pipes are spaced so closely it is hard to squeeze on the hoses. I was surprised to find the top end of the matrix and pipes are made of plastic.

Hope this helps someone down the road.
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  #86  
Old October 10th, 2013, 10:48 PM
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Sam
NAS 97 D90 SW
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2500 miles in the last two weeks. Whatever was left of my hearing after Uncle Sam took his is now shot; I know I have a SW, but a full Magnaflow and a ton of open bolt holes from removal of seats and carpeting pushed decibels into the mid 90s.

This is me pegged at around 3k elevation on 4% grade with 300 pounds and a nasty headwind:

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It was hard keeping 60 on some 3% grades. When Im being passed by 18 wheelers, I get irritated. Unless that Transit diesel becomes readily available soon, Im going warmed V8. Speed limit is 80 in this part of the world.



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At least she ran near flawlessly other than some head tickin'.
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  #87  
Old October 10th, 2013, 10:55 PM
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aaron lam
1997 Alpine White D90 SW #2212
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Your check engine is on Get one of these... can clear codes but also lets you monitor your engine temp and other good stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/ScanGauge-Auto...ords=scangauge
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  #88  
Old October 10th, 2013, 11:22 PM
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Bill Larson
97 D90 SW
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Heck and you don't even have any expedition gear on her...it's like riding bareback...wait till you throw a saddle on!
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  #89  
Old October 11th, 2013, 11:00 AM
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Sam
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Thanks, sharpshooters. .

I do need a good code reader. Thanks Aaron. And yes, I have no poser racks, spare tire carriers, propane tanks, solar panels, wind farms, tenting for 20, etc on her yet Bill. Hope to start that soon. .
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  #90  
Old October 11th, 2013, 11:07 AM
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97 D90 SW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMac View Post
Thanks, sharpshooters. .

I do need a good code reader. Thanks Aaron. And yes, I have no poser racks, spare tire carriers, propane tanks, solar panels, wind farms, tenting for 20, etc on her yet Bill. Hope to start that soon. .

Ah yes...I do the "Great Pretender" very well! Well when you get ready for some facade considerations ring me up! Where are you guys in the Great Trek?
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  #91  
Old October 11th, 2013, 11:34 AM
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Sam
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We made it in last night. Texas is indeed large, driving horizontally. Now 3-5 nights in the hotel until closing.
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  #92  
Old November 3rd, 2013, 01:13 AM
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Sam
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Lost my fuel cap, so finally had an excuse to get a locking, tethered one. Mudstuff UK is now selling a genuine LR locking cap with a tether, so best of both worlds.

http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/s...-fuel-cap.html

It is my intention to write a review with pics once I recieve it. David at ULC earlier supplied me with other Mudstuff goodies such as the rear door trim, curry hooks, and LED license plate light.
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  #93  
Old November 15th, 2013, 08:41 PM
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Sam
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Recieved the tethered locking genuine fuel cap from MudStuff directly. Fast delivery from across the pond as well. All it took was a 1/4 bit to drill a hole for the push down rivet.

Part number is LR032977. A lot of folks carry that here stateside but Im assuming Mud has enhanced it by putting the tether on it. I like the factory look over the big bulky looking non-tether jobs.

A Plus Product.
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  #94  
Old December 16th, 2013, 04:27 AM
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Sam
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Gutted the rear. Need to find something that will remove the factory adhesive strips.

Rear will get:
MudStuff Rear Door Card
Dynamat Xtreme
MLV/CCF
Black Carpet
New Rear Door Seal
New Rear Door Sill Strip
SafariHP Speaker Housings
Pioneer Speakers
Garrison Window Channel Kit
Remove Limo Tint and get 35% 3M Tint
Exmoor Lock and Fold Seats in XS Leather
Paint Roll Cage Black Satin
New Headliner
LED Interior Light
Fix Rear Upper Brake Light and Door Switch
Seal Roof Seam
3M Acoustic above headliner
Hardwire MudStuff Cigar Lighter and USB Port
Stainless Hardware



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  #95  
Old December 16th, 2013, 04:36 AM
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Sam
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Two things I would love to do while I was at it would be to cut an access port to the fuel pump and build a storage compartment out of the space under the side windows. Doubt it will happen but something to think about. Will probably rerun good speaker wire though.
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  #96  
Old December 16th, 2013, 08:53 AM
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I used goof off for the adhesive strips...it did an ok job but you still need a plastic scraper. I was going to do the fuel access door thing and there are a few cool kits, but it's too easy to drop the tank...there are obvious inspection aspects to pulling the guard and tank conventionally.

If you've done lock-n-fold or are going to there are considerations you may need to make for the FP access point.
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  #97  
Old December 16th, 2013, 09:17 AM
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Chris Snyder
1994 D90 #614 | '07 L322 SC
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Are you really happy with OME springs and fox's at 85/90? That's really stiff valving and really stiff springs. I couldn't stand it.
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  #98  
Old December 16th, 2013, 09:28 AM
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When is the expedition rack going on?
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  #99  
Old December 16th, 2013, 09:40 AM
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SMac
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Sam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Larson View Post
When is the expedition rack going on?
Ha, You're killing me. Im not going on any "expeditions" until I sort out everything else!

On a serious note, I dont know which rack I want now. I was thinking of going full SD Exo with flooring like ECR did, but the Low Profile Front Runner seems nice. Any opinions?

------ Follow up post added December 16th, 2013 07:42 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by cellulararrest View Post
Are you really happy with OME springs and fox's at 85/90? That's really stiff valving and really stiff springs. I couldn't stand it.
Nope. I got it that way to run a lot of crap in the back, but think I'll go with air bags like Bill Larson and downgrade. I like the height on the springs, but definitely need to revalve the Foxs.

------ Follow up post added December 16th, 2013 07:44 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Larson View Post
I used goof off for the adhesive strips...it did an ok job but you still need a plastic scraper. I was going to do the fuel access door thing and there are a few cool kits, but it's too easy to drop the tank...there are obvious inspection aspects to pulling the guard and tank conventionally. If you've done lock-n-fold or are going to there are considerations you may need to make for the FP access point.
Ok, thanks. Thats another project...installing the SafariHP furl skid and stainless hardware. I'll forget about that mod then.
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  #100  
Old December 16th, 2013, 09:56 AM
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[QUOTE=SMac;491142]Ha, You're killing me. Im not going on any "expeditions" until I sort out everything else!

On a serious note, I dont know which rack I want now. I was thinking of going full SD Exo with flooring like ECR did, but the Low Profile Front Runner seems nice. Any opinions?


Well the way to sort it IS to go out...then you truly figure it all out!! I've had both low and high profile racks...I prefer being high (lol)...no real advantage I think it compliments the overall profile!
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