87 ex-mod heart transplant 2.5nad to 200tdi - Page 4 - Defender Source
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  #61  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 10:41 AM
javelinadave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
A German guy and it never is done as they must re-engineer every part.
Funny, reading the above post I reengineed the 200Tdi down pipe into a 2.5TD down pipe and I am Polish.
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  #62  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
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On my exhaust.. I used a 2.5TD downpipe as it has a flange just after the turn. This allows the exhaust to be easily removed in the future. The 200TDI downpipe goes past the crossmember and it is extremely hard to remove with the engine in place.
It's also extremely hard to install with the engine in place haha!

I bought a brand new radiator and installed it into the radiator frame. All together the new set up is a bit taller than my previous radiator assembly. I don't think I will be cutting the mounts since I can still get the hood closed.

I'm not too worried about the power steering at the moment since actually getting the engine running is the priority. I found diagrams of how they hook up, and the diameter of the adapter for the reservoir to steering box hose is too small to fit into the steering box. That's why I was having such a hard time earlier. So at a minimum I will need a new adapter for that.

I got everything bolted and tightened. I replaced the return line with parts from NAPA and it seems to hold very well. I primed the lift pump and noticed there was fuel leaking out of hole in one of the injector banjo bolts. I gave it a light turn and it moved with very little resistance, almost like it was all the way unscrewed. I thought I was lightly tightening it, all the way until it snapped off. While I was dealing with that, I noticed my radiator was leaking, lightly but consistently. I went through with a white paper towel and checked around every pipe and each of them were bone dry. Now I have to remove the radiator and take off the fan cowl so I can hook it back up and fill it with water to try to get eyes on the leak. I really hope it was a hose issue and not my brand new radiator, but my hopes aren't high.

So now my engine project is on hold until RoversNorth sends me the banjo bolt and washers, and I trouble shoot my radiator issue.

2 steps forward, 1 step back.

You guys have all been a great help. Thanks.
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  #63  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 08:16 PM
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  #64  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 08:21 PM
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  #65  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 10:01 PM
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My radiator is a very similar height. I'm not worried about the clearance anymore. Just worried about the leak. What am I looking for in the exhaust photo?
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  #66  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 10:06 PM
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What am I looking for in the exhaust photo?
The union in front of the crossmember.
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  #67  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 10:14 PM
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The normal 200tdi down pipe is a single piece without that flange making impossible to fit or remove with the engine in place. It makes removing the starter very difficult.
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  #68  
Old May 4th, 2015, 10:21 AM
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Ahh ok. That looks like a pretty good resolution to the problem.
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  #69  
Old May 4th, 2015, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
On my exhaust.. I used a 2.5TD downpipe as it has a flange just after the turn. This allows the exhaust to be easily removed in the future. The 200TDI downpipe goes past the crossmember and it is extremely hard to remove with the engine in place.

I wish I had used the 2.5TD downpipe when I did mine. I used the 200Tdi downpipe and I had to remove the cross member to install it, then had to remove the cross member again to replace the starter. Very good tip. Too late for me though.
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  #70  
Old May 7th, 2015, 01:32 PM
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My replacement banjo bolt got here incredibly fast. The engine is all bolted and filled. I cracked the 10mm bolt on the fuel filter, cranked until I could find resistance on pump priming lever, but for all the pumping I did, no fuel would come out. I took off the injector pipes and pumped lever until fuel came out of them, then hooked them back up. Still wouldn't start. I checked my starter solinoid, so I know that's not the issue. I assume there is air in the lines.

Any good tips for getting the air out, or should I just get a tow start?
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  #71  
Old May 7th, 2015, 01:37 PM
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Did you bleed the fuel filter? Once the filter is 100% full of fuel to bleed a 200Tdi you just need to crack it. It will self bleed after a few seconds unless you are sucking air from somewhere.
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  #72  
Old May 7th, 2015, 01:48 PM
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If you install a 12V fuel pump, turning on the ignition key fully bleeds the fuel system in just a few minutes.
If you install a 12V fuel pump, turning on the ignition key fully bleeds the fuel system in just a few minutes.
If you install a 12V fuel pump, turning on the ignition key fully bleeds the fuel system in just a few minutes.
If you install a 12V fuel pump, turning on the ignition key fully bleeds the fuel system in just a few minutes.
If you inst....
Different thread, same statement, over and over again!

Our daughter drives a 2004 Jetta TDI that has an in-tank fuel pump and a lift pump on the engine.
When you turn on the key the in-tank fuel pump pushes fuel up to the lift pump on the engine.
Change a fuel filter, switch on the key, and the engine runs and never misses a beat.

Same scenario with our Land Rovers because they...
Have a 12V fuel pump, turning on the ignition key fully bleeds the fuel system in just a few minutes.
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  #73  
Old May 7th, 2015, 02:35 PM
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First make sure the lift pump is working. Disconnect the line into the filter and crank them engine. You should get tons of fuel. The system is self bleeding and you never need to do anything other than crank the engine. Most likely the left pump is dead.
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  #74  
Old May 7th, 2015, 02:40 PM
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Hmm. I'll give that a shot.

------ Follow up post added May 7th, 2015 11:43 AM ------

I have replaced, filled and bled the fuel filter.
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  #75  
Old May 7th, 2015, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
First make sure the lift pump is working. Disconnect the line into the filter and crank them engine. You should get tons of fuel. The system is self bleeding and you never need to do anything other than crank the engine. Most likely the left pump is dead.
Red hit the nail on the head. My lift pump is toast. I'm confused as to how Rovers North said this engine was running well when it had rotted fuel lines and a broken lift pump. Oh well, It appears my 2.5na has the same pump, so I'm just going to attemp to reuse that one. Fingers crossed.
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  #76  
Old May 7th, 2015, 03:21 PM
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They will run without a lift pump of the system is well sealed. They just do not prime very well.
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  #77  
Old May 7th, 2015, 04:38 PM
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Swapped the lift pumps and it started after only a second. Good call!



I tried to put her in reverse and it seems my clutch isn't working. Freaking awesome. I really hope it's a disconnect somewhere because I followed the clutch install video step by step. It's acting like the clutch pedal isn't doing anything at all. The last thing I want to do is pull my tranny out to redo the clutch.

Oh well. I'll keep you all posted
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  #78  
Old May 7th, 2015, 09:44 PM
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Excellent job.
Did you install a new clutch?
Check the fluid, then have someone pump the clutch petal and hold the petal all the way down.
Then open the bleeder and see if you get some pressurized fluid squirting out.
Then you'll at least know there is fluid being moved and some pressure building up.
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UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #79  
Old May 7th, 2015, 10:00 PM
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Is there pedal pressure? They can be hard to bleed sometimes.
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  #80  
Old May 8th, 2015, 01:38 PM
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There is pedal pressure but it hits the floor without actuating the clutch. I did some research yesterday and it appears that air might be the culprit just like you are all saying. I'm going to give reverse bleeding a shot. It seems like it's likely to be the simplest for me. I like the idea of checking for pressure also. I'll give that a go before I bleed, just to be sure.
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